Vienna/Krakow
FRI, 7/6: Up at 8:30AM, bed 11:55PM.
SAT, 7/7: Up at 7:30AM, bed 10:45PM.
SUN, 7/8: Up at 7:18AM, bed 9:20PM, but up to bell? alarm? at 8:46! At 10:13 take two diphen.
MON, 7/9: Wake at 1:28---not very effective sleeping pills! 4:35 pee and shit. Up at 6AM. Watch TV while having as early a breakfast as I can manage each day, then get to tasks surrounding packing, and get finished enough (having told Spartacus I was worried about the TRIP when I picked up the article and bought stamps for the new 57 cent ounce-rate, and NOT for the 35 cent increase, which did NOT take place, and I phoned Spart back to say that he owed me 5 cents for the extra postage I needlessly put on five envelopes) and he insisted it was my old fear of flying, but I equally insisted it was fear of the discomforts of the flight and the not sleeping which concerned me---as turned out to be TRUE! Gym 1:35-3:10, taking my mind off pretty effectively. So finished that I get out to deposit the $1100 check, that I'd gotten from Springer that I'd FORGOTTEN to take to the gym, from 4-4:20, and down to the A-train subway platform at 4:38 and Ken's train is IN, jammed and thank goodness he was on the side of the platform so I could see him wave through the crowd! at 4:42, even though he insisted he didn't get on the train until 4:35. To the B-bus, after finally getting a seat at Utica Avenue on the surprisingly crowded subway, at Howard Beach at 5:18. Long drive around and to Swissair line at 5:45. Have fish and chips and two deliciously cold Bud drafts at Delaney's Bar, after casing all the fast food shops and finding nothing interesting; though the fish and chips were nothing to talk about, at least we had table service instead of the demeaning central crowded, kiddie-heavy tables between the shops in the middle. Board at 7:55 after reading New Yorker and tell the preteen "No, you CAN'T sit at the window with your family." TOUGH! Announced as 6:30 flight! Off at 8:28PM to a clear view over all of Fire Island and lots of Connecticut, but then the clouds close in and the brilliant "Turner-like," to quote Ken, sunset fades and I decide to accede to the stewardess's request that the woman can put her baby on the spare seat and move at 9:40 to a TERRIBLE window directly over the wing next to a HUGE woman who KEEPS poking me in the ribs and arm as she CEASELESSLY raises her arms to pray (in fear of flight?) and coughs up phlegm and talks gibberish to her outlandishly old and bent father in some arcane language, and though I take two diphen and Pravachol, Vicks up my nose, glasses in bag, eyes masked and TRY to sleep at 9:50, there's NO sleep.
TUE, 7/10: Sun rises at 1:06 (5:06 "local" time over the middle of the Atlantic, far south of Iceland). Change watch at 1:53 to 7:53AM---took my pills with breakfast and got sun IN FACE for an hour before 8AM. Land at 9:25, some clearing over France, enabling me to see a VERY distant, clouded Paris, and actually identify Vaux-le-Vicomte, which Ken says is "worth the Viscount" before the map says that we passed it. Kid keeps pleading to look out, but I have no interest until, after several questions from him that I answer abruptly, I ask him where HE's from and he says ALBANIA: had been studying in the US and learned English for two years, and comes back to vacation in Albania for a month and then returns to the US! He says "not many papers" to get in and out, and "doesn't know what airlines" flies to Tirana. Buy kirsh for 23 Swiss francs and look through GREAT shops with in-bottle blown glass figures and ODD ingredients. Read free Newsweek and Tribune, board bus at 11:35 for plane, and LONG ride to plane where I'm over WING in the crowded back of a plane that's half business class with only about 7 of 60 seats filled. Not leave until 12:28, waiting for connecting passengers, decent views, CLOUDY off right, mountain, side as far as I can see. One hour flight announced that takes 48 minutes! #1-3 were taken on way to landing at Zurich, #4 over Zurich taking off, #5 Vienna at 1:14, land at 1:16. Train NOT working when we finally pick up bags and trundle to the platform, having gone off July 1 for repairs, just in time for tourists! Get 575 schillings (S) for $40 at rook-"change weasel," per Jay, and 800S for 53+ euros-without-dollar-equivalent from an ATM that I have to teach Ken how to work, just as I pushed the right buttons to get the automatic 70S ticket for the bus to City Center from the airport. Sweaty in bus until he turns on the A/C and we leave at 2:10, in at 2:30, colorful city and we pass Steirereck, looking rather tatty. Onto taxi at 2:34 and Ken gives 140S for the 120S meter with two bags in the back at the Pension Neuer Markt into room 28 at 3PM, finding NO A/C and I'm QUITE sweaty as I unpack into the sparse drawers until I "discover" the two shelves over the closet with too-few hangers. Unpack to 3:40. #6 St. Stephan's exterior with ORIENTAL marching band. #7 columns inside as ALTARS at 4:27. #8 pulpit from 1480. Cathedral WONDERFUL, including 50S trip to the top of the tower by elevator and sexy handler, to 5:30. #10 pest monument and other towers at 5:48. #11 Caesar's Jewelry facade. To Reinthalen Beisl for dinner at 6, bitter Gussar beer and pork scallop "Vienna style" and huge salad, with added "sekt" for two for 150S and talk with sexy-eyed Texan across way. Ken has mediocre stuffed pepper and we share a chocolate souffle with a total of 550S bill, which Ken pays with one of his 1000s since they don't take plastic. Back to hotel through GREAT streets, but we're both pooping out by 7:50. Take pills and .5mg melitonin, and then Ken drones on about sightseeing so that by 8:12 I've taken 3mg melitonin and FORGOT pravachol, which I took at 5AM-ish, hoping my system will think it's "last night", washed face again, taken sheet OFF the quilt, written this, and gotten into a HOT bed by 8:12, ignoring the bright lights from below lighting up poorly-shaded room with tiny shower-stall precisely like the one in Prague with John. Think a bit and drop off to sleep almost instantly, Ken doing the same.
WED, 7/11: Wake at the dot of 12, up by 12:12AM to type in Dream A in file 8. Shit a bit, hoping not to be affected by drinking the refreshing cold water from the tap that Ken said came "from pure mountain streams" around Vienna. Light BRIGHT outside from street signs. Feel tired then, but wake WONDERFULLY refreshed at 5:08, almost precisely NINE hours, when I told Ken that I hardly EVER slept beyond 8.5 hours. It's quite LIGHT in the sky, and up at 5:19 to type dream B, pee, and shower at 5:29. Start typing at 7:53AM, Ken up and washing and showering and moaning that he'd forgotten his hair-mousse, figuring to buy chocolate mousse for it at an Apotek. He reads in his Michelin about the Heuriger: vine-covered entry with its own wine regulated by price. Catch up to now at 6:38, probably NOT going out for a walk before 7AM breakfast downstairs, and hopefully retrieving my pen that I left with the map and hostess yesterday while Ken drank his tasty $2 wine and I sat waiting for him to get out before I fell asleep. Ken has all kinds of plans made, and I'm perfectly happy with it! Put the chocolate away in his box so she'll replace it each night, piled the blankets and quilts atop the closet so they won't be replaced easily, and feel good in the room at this time. Fuss to 7AM, and down to third table for GOOD breakfast: meusli, hot chocolate, lots of great ham and cold cuts and cheese, then more cold cuts and cherry-prune juice and orange juice and water and pills and glad the loud kid is leaving today. Up at 7:30 and brush teeth to TV, lots of weather from lots of Tyrolean hills and out at 7:50 to Ken demanding that we wait until Bipa opens so he can get hair mousse, so we wander street and get back to buy and line at register so we're to subway at 8:18, buying 300S 8-day ticket, with which we go to information because it's not clear how we USE it, and told to fold and punch each day. Get to U1 toward Reumannplatz "in 2 minutes" at 8:30. Onto U4 at 8:40. #12 Schonbrunn at 8:57. Into place at 9:10 with 190S GRAND tour. #13 garden from palace at 9:46. Lots of GREAT rooms, so I can't resist buying 95S Schonbrunn book and 105S Vienna book BOTH, and look through shop at 10:33 which has EVERYTHING: tee-shirts, jigsaw puzzles, Barbie dolls, historic stuff, slides, toys, playing cards, jewelry, aprons, fans, pencils, CDs, tea service, scarves, fridge magnets, and snow globes. 40S seniors to carriages at 11:30---ending with TAIL WIG! To restaurant Residenz at 12:30, great lunch of goulash soup and GREAT white wine and strawberry and ice cream and whipped cream for 65S, total of 560S with tip on my Visa to 2PM. #14 Neptune fountain at 2:36. Oh, forgot the marionettes, too. #15 up to Glorietta at 2:45. #16 FROM Glorietta at 2:55. HOT, and Ken says the guy said it was 35°C today=98°F! #??: 28-day old yellow spider monkey at 4:11. Parmhouse to exhaustion---shit at exit at 5:15, then decide we have time for the Maze, which we do with a few switchbacks to 5:50. To train and switch trains and back to hotel at 6:30, TIRED! Take off everything but SHORTS, type to here, and Ken comes up quickly and we start thinking about protecting ourselves from the rain for dinner. Leave here at 7:15 and walk to Esterhazy Keller, down a long flight of stairs, and no one tells us anything, so I walk through first room with the bar and just a few tables, then up a small flight to a second room full of people eating, but maybe from a menu, not from the buffet in the first room, and then I go to a still-closed second room and even a THIRD room while Ken stands in the doorway and shouts "Where are you GOING, Bob??" I just say "You know I like to see what the limits of the places are." He asks the bartender what we do, and he says to just find a table and serve ourselves food. We get a table but STILL no one talks about what we do next, so I just line up for food and point to a tough nugget of ham and a tasteless vegetable terrine and a hard-tack nut-crust bread and take it to the table to start eating while the drunk group at the table across from us starts singing "Yellow Submarine" and laughing at me because I don't know how to get wine. I try asking a waitress who's carrying wine to the next room, but she simply ignores me. Ken returns with food cheaper than mine, but not much better: a ham-and-beef breaded patty and a sour cole slaw and some vegetables, and finally I go to the bartender and ask for two 1/4 liter Schloss Wines, which he gives me for 48S, and they're pretty poor, so Ken asks me to get him a Welshriesling Premium, but the bartender doesn't hear the "Premium" and gives me a 1/4 liter regular for 26S, which isn't much improvement. We eat, listening to the loud laughs from the next table, commiserating about the awful food, and finally I demand a "Premium" and he DOES pour a 1/8 liter into a regular wine glass for 32S, giving me a 20S note for my 50 note plus 2S. STILL not much better and we finish and leave for Cafe Mozart, now in the rain, and a bright-eyed razor-cheekboned waiter gives Ken a likely story when Ken gives him a hard time about the weakness of the decaf coffee in his blend, and I have a decent orange-flavored hot chocolate for 75S and Ken's "extra capucinno" costs an addition 33S to his 75S drink. Home in the rain at 10, dropping exhausted into bed at 10:15 and getting to sleep quickly.
THU, 7/12: Up at 1:30, up at 3:50 to pee and shit, and up at 6:45 to shower to 7:18. Breakfast 7:20-7:50, fewer people, and get up feeling EXHAUSTED. Lay down and rest while Ken plans, going through lots of brochures and tossing out lots of ideas. He goes down and requests a reservation for two for Barbara Hendricks the following night, and finds he has to call Korso after 10AM for dinner tonight. Leave at 9:03 to the Kunstmuseum, pausing for his coffee because it doesn't open until 10 and he doesn't want to just sit in the street and watch the people passing by, and we get in on a line and I pay 80S for a senior, and we get free earphones and he phones for reservations and we start on the Art Objects which blow me away: cameos, silver, reliquaries, automata and clocks, great stuff. #21 two MEN embracing in ivory at 10:34. #22 study collection shelf at 10:58. #23 Della Robbia: Alexander the Great at 11:03. #24 house altar, four artists, 23 years. #25 Cellini cup---only SURE Cellini at 11:31. #26 Canova: Theseus (and fuck the Minotaur) at 12:36, before a decent lunch in the central rotunda: Ken's watery vegetable soup and three scoops of lemon ice cream that he thought was sherbet, my pasta with bacon, filling, with two lemon ice boules in sekt, and good-looking people passing, shopping at El Greco kiosk, and 527S bill, almost as much as dinner at Beisl our first night. Lunch to 1:35, resting our weary feet. #27 Greco: Trinity at 2:01. ALL the Grecos look cleaned, indeed scoured of all glazes, to the bright-color bases. #28 Laocoon at 2:33, still the sexiest body in art. Out of El Greco at 2:40, and then to paintings, some incredible van Eycks, a whole room of Breughels, including three of the Seasons and a large Tower of Babel, and some darker ones that need cleaning. Rather crowded but we could wait and see what we wanted. Then quickly through Giordano, a great assemblage of a mediocre artist until he shows some of his sexy male near-nudes, TIRED, and shit at 4:40. #29 Theseus again, from below, at 4:46. Leave 4:51, finding the check-room ticket at last, after I'm told I'd have to wait until 6PM to claim my bag if I'd lost the ticket in fact. In fact, lost my KEYS in the same two folders of Greco and Giordano in the hotel later that evening! Back to hotel to lie down to rest again, not even bothering to type anything, only cleaning my shoes still dusty from Schonbrunn. Leave at 7:10, through streets complicated by the new-laid stars to such as Tchaikovsky and Menuhin and Czerny and Mozart in the Karntnerstrasse, to Korso's elegant interior and the tasting menu for 980S which goes up to 4206S with three wines for Ken and an added dessert wine for me, nothing very spectacular, lots of people, but not QUITE worth $248 for both except for the experience of having done it. Ken goes to the john on my recommendation and I continue to stare at the David Duchovny look-alike with his older worldlier blonde-bitch partner. At 10:05 Ken returns to the room and I sit on a public bench and outlast the smelly (and harelipped) Russians who leave at 10:30, but get joined at 10:37 by kids, screaming, and at 10:39 by pizza-eating couple. Really the LOWEST life: chadored Arabic wives tending two kids while the husband cavorts, face bared; punks looking at the glass elevator to the Air Bar across the street; LOTS more Russian-speaking people, men in suits with bored wives, women in bustiers with bored boy-friends---a Turkish wannabe boyfriend later passing alone. A few male couples but no one vaguely sexy except the tall skinny camouflage-panted guy who passes twice, sort of looking from under his tailored eyebrows. At 10:40 babies leave, and at 10:43 pizza-eaters finish and leave. I leave at 10:52, crowd diminishing and not as interesting, and I AM tired. Ken is asleep already as I get to bed 11:05.
FRI, 7/13: Wake at 4:15 to pee, again at 7:03, then sleep to dream C to 7:33, when Ken gets up to shower at 8:05 and I start typing until he gets out at 8:15 and I get out at 8:25 and we're down to breakfast at 8:30, coffee and prune-juice weaker, my chocolate-urn bigger which Ken can then share, and food quantity less. Back up at 8:55 to finish this to 9:20, ready to brush teeth and see whether the Opera tour starts at 10 or 11AM. Leave 9:43 to 45S Opera-house tour. #30 Opera foyer, 1869, at 10:15. 1700 seats and 567 standing (50S low, 30S upper) for "common people to attend." 2450S for best seat in middle box. #31 "Tea Room," naming about 100 Kammer Singers at 10:33. Biggest VOLUME of opera stage, 50 meters front-back, 60 meters left-right. Third biggest AREA next to Met in NY and Buenos Aires. Only "Rienzi" used the WHOLE stage with 800 people. To 10:46 in opera. Onto U1 at 11 to Sudbanhof. Oberne Belvedere, Shiele and Klimt. Buchenwald=Beech wood! Leave upper at 12:20, after pee. #32 Oberne Belvedere and jet at 12:25. #33 Lower Belvedere room at 12:43. Skim Medieval Art to 12:48, and to Schwarzenburg Palace Terrace (warm) at 1:20, lunch of good liver terrine to 2:20 with bottle of wine. #34 fountain at 2:37. #35 dome of Karlskirche at 2:51. Karlskirche a ridiculous 40S to 2:57. #36 Secession Building at 3:09. Beethoven Frieze BEST part to 3:27. #37 Secession and Ken at 3:36. Roll #2. Pink-shirt hunk! Bildenden Kunst at 3:42 and he says "No, it closes at 4!" DAMN. #1 Karlsplatz kiosk and #2 Karlskirche at 3:58. Subway U1 to Stephen and up to Do and Co Onyx Bar for drinks, me a Bellini and Ken's Long Island Iced Tea for 250S and a CUTE blue-eyed British waiter. To hotel 5:07 for 250S tickets for tonight. Try to shit but don't. LEFT foot's heel is SORE and leave hotel 5:55. Venezia pizza pretty good with singers (blind) across street, 380S on Ken's card because I forgot mine! Leave 7:20 to U1 to Secession stop and theater Am Der Wein is full and hot 8:05-8:55 and 9:11-10:13 for Barbara Hendricks. CUTE American in black shirt. Back by U1 and stop across from Stephansdom from 10:30-11:20 for two Radlers and a spritzer, and a very interesting passing-by crowd in the perfect-temperature evening, and then they flash their lights for closing and I pay the bill in cash. Back to hotel at 11:23 and undress and get stubs from Ken, him reading guidebooks, and I get new earplugs---they took my OLD ones away JUST as they were wearing out. Note here to 11:52 and take two rolaids and pravachol and pee and to bed at 11:57.
SAT, 7/14: Ken wakes me at 4:20 for "snoring so loud all I could do was listen to you." LONG time getting BACK to sleep and long time TO sleep---coughed very hard and very long and couldn't stop and looked at watch at 12:29 before sleeping FIRST, then wake at 5:54 and transcribe two dreams D! At 6:07 it's CLEAR out! Up at 7:40. Shower to 8:02. Breakfast 8:10-8:40 and out at 9AM. We WALK to other hotels to pick up more of group for tour of the Vienna Woods! To bus at Opera at 9:15 with CLEAR sky! To "our" bus from behind Karlsplatz at 9:33 and SIT waiting for more people to fill EVERY seat by 9:53. Vienna has 1.5M people. #3 Mayerling Chapel at 10:54. No photos allowed inside small modern chapel. #4 monument to Prince Rudolf (died of syphilis-fear eh?) in Vienna, destroyed in 1945. Back to bus at 11:13. Leave at 11:17. Heiligekreutz at 11:33, Cistercians from Citeau, France, at 11:24. #5 choir stalls at 11:31, AGAIN no photos and EVERYONE'S taking them, including, dammit, ME! #6 inside wood cabinetry at 11:37. #7 baptistry at 11:43, which turns into a water-source on the tour. #8 Totenchapelle at 11:44. #9 courtyard at 11:54. Leave 11:58. Off at Seegrotto at 12:10 and #10 is map. Said to be biggest at 6200 square meters? #11 Haenkel 152/163, first JET, 189 made here during the war which ended before they could be put into flight, at 12:33. #12 descent to boat at 12:39. #13 "Three Musketeers" Disney prop at 12:54. Out at 1:04. Bus leaves at 1:24. Back by 2:01. Lunch at Furhrich 2:11-2:25 on asparagus soup and not-that-great AUSTRIAN Budweiser, not the American kind, but not much better than Gasser. #14 Johann Strauss and Ken at 2:47 in incredibly hot park which he wanted to see most everything of, and I must admit small ducklings were cute. To MAK museum, which he had such trouble finding in his Austria Michelin, and it's huge with captions in brochures which I loaded up on: Oriental rugs, Biedermeier furniture, glassware, ceramics, paintings, gewgaws, odd installations---as if they were PLEADING with people to look at them and the place was mostly empty. Up to the second floor for more stuff, and try the enormous elevator to the basement but it wasn't the right place, and find the Dennis Hopper set of exhibits and a movie's going on, and I look through but the last interesting thing I saw were the stills for "Powers of 10" and then the movie itself with the chattery James Morrison narrating the sweep from the universe to the atom. Ken leaves for his own speed, and I'm through vast rooms of modernistic nothingness, but the heat finally gets through to me and I start farting and find a john and shit quite a bit and look for Ken in the shop, where he IS, and look for something but find nothing so leave at 5PM, going down the deepest stairway in the system to the U3 that takes us to Karntnerstrasse, and to hotel at 5:15 where I strip off all my clothes and can think of nothing better to do that take a cold shower, feeling rejuvenated to sit down at this to type to 5:26, Ken returns to say he couldn't possibly have drunk a small bottle of wine AND a small bottle of mineral water for the spritzer he wanted, and he starts dressing and reading while I finish this at 5:49, ready to dress for our dinner, listening to the cacaphony of bells from outside, the swoosh of wind through our curtains in the still TOTALLY CLOUDLESS sky, and don't even feel hungry: it's just too HOT to really enjoy for a long time---EXCEPT that my foot MIGHT be feeling just a BIT better, except that I kept off it for most of the day except in the museum in the afternoon. Leave 6PM for Do & Co, getting offered an outside INNER table (ALL the tables at the edge are for FOUR!), but it's windy and warm so we opt to sit inside the door, where I order Fresh Chanterelles with Bacon and eggs, while Ken has a Chanterelle salad, and I have venison en croute while he has whitefish, and he LOVES it and mine's OK, going through his white wine in time to have a Shiraz from Australia with my venison, and it's VERY filling, so that when I have the bit of Ken's cheese, and then my fruit compote, I'm TOTALLY stuffed. Sit on bench at 8:10 after "Abs" jumps over three crotches and someone else spins on his head about a DOZEN times. DRAG back at 9:18, bed at 10:25, STUFFED!
SUN, 7/15: Up at 1:30, 4:30, 5:30, up at 7:20 in the all-bright light, even though blowing, TIRED! Breakfast 7:55-8:13, very light, and brush teeth with TV. Leave 9AM TIRED! To information office, then U1, and 9:30 wait for N tram. #15 Hundertwasser Haus at 9:41. #16 and #17 impossible-to-photo over obstructions at 9:55. #18 Toilet of Modern Art sign at 9:58. #19 Two maidens in distress at 10:26, along Danube. #20 Kunsthaus fountain at 10:39. Entry 120S! #20 stairway between Hundertwasser and Tiffany at 10:53. #22 model of house at 11:10. GREAT Tiffany lamps: perfect transparencies. #23 lunch at 12:36. #24 Carmen Miranda at 12:41. Leave at 12:36 after spartan lunch of Ken's cold-Spanish tomato soup and my beef goulash and our bottle of wine. Leave Strauss at 1:22. Reisenrad 60S! Leave at 2:10, exhausting in heat, LOTS of rides and people, most better rides 60S. 2:30 to Stephens, 85S for drinks at the Weinwurm, where we'd drunk the previous night. To hotel to REST to 4:30, then to Grinzing to look at the Bach-whatever, and Ken decides the buffet at Martin Sepp looks better, but we order the Hurtigerplatte for 185S each and get a TON of food, LOTS of wine, lots of comment on people, and I end with Kaiserschmarren with a bucket of fruit: Vienese toasted noodles, stewed fruit. Eat to 8:35, stuffed for 866S. Onto N38 at 8:49---HOT! To hotel at 9:40, airless! Shower and start typing at 10:02, finish to this at 10:17. Bed.
MON, 7/16: Wake at 4:15 to pee, and at 5:35 with memories of two dreams, which I'll record at DREAM E on file 8, and then at 6:43 to noises of guys working on the building next door SO early! Must doze on and off, because when I get up, with Ken in the shower, it's 7:32AM and it's now 7:38 when I turn to file 8. Now 7:48 and Ken's dressing for breakfast and the guys are banging away on the scaffolding across the way, and I'm sitting gotchwise on the chair, literally sweating all over, even though I'd taken a shower last night before going to bed. He observes the cloudless sky out the window and says "If it's going to rain today, it's going to rain much LATER today," and I can only agree. Feeling slightly depressed these last two mornings, wishing we could just RELAX and sort of "settle into" the town, though we've tried with sitting in bars with drinks. Counting just eight days left. Also annoyed that my left heel seems to be hurting harder again---what IS wrong with it and why does the discomfort seem to move around? Decide I'll comb my hair and dress now at 7:51AM. Ken collects a HUGE amount of his laundry and two pair of my socks and two of my shorts and puts out his ludicrous suede-like pants that seem to easily attract any stain with a dark spot on its filmy blue surface---I'm sure he paid more than $1000 for the new suit---and goes down to find out what to DO with it. Observe the workers on the scaffolding and unfortunately it seems they're putting up a NEW level rather than taking it down, as I'd rather hoped, which would make the next few mornings quieter. Ken comes back saying that they'll do the laundry in-house "reasonably." Breakfast 8:10-8:30, even less than before, and Ken takes out dry cleaning to 8:58 while I lay in bed, and he returns saying "Hot, hot, hot." #31 Hercules entrance to Hofburg at 9:20. In to Kaiser's Apartments, mostly photos and a few articles of clothing, and personal quotes showing that all was not the most cheerful in the family. Then to [5:49PM 7/16---over half the trip over!] Silberkammer for #32 gold service at 9:58. Silver coated in SAFFRON to mimic gold services when 40 were not enough. Then by cannibalizing unused pieces like plate covers and hotplates and serving forks when service went from French to Russian style, they melted down for 20 more to make 60. Serving pieces and stuff had to TRAVEL because they had no duplicates in their other palaces. She ate raw duck meat squeezed for juice by the duck press invented by Christofle for squeezing juice out of BONES to flavor Austrian duck dishes. Their Grand Vermeil set is one of the world's largest silver-gilt: 4500 pieces for 40 covers weighing 1100 kg. "Silver-plated metal called alpacca." #33 many of the pieces at 10:33. Then to fabulous Schatzkammer for #34 crown, no flash, at 11AM. #35 right-hand nail from cross at 11:49. Buy GERMAN book for 204S on Visa because that Schatzkammer book didn't COME in English. Look at Hofchapelle for 20S to 12:37 "just because we passed it," and #36 white horses at entrance at 12:39. Eat in Silberkammer Cafe for 350S of two bowls of good goulash soup and tiny crustless white-bread "Italian" sandwiches of tuna for me and ham-and-cheese for him, and a Radler for me and a spritzer and a wine and a coffee dessert for him, to 1:30. Then around to Ephesus Museum, leaving bag unguarded in the Garderobe, paying 75S to enter FOUR museums: Ephesus disappointing, but I took Roll #3 #1-4 trying to "make up for it." Leave 2:15 for #5 MODEL of Vienna from 1850 in Musical Instruments section, which I send Ken down to get two earphones for while I have a good shit, and the musical pieces don't QUITE go where they should, and one earpiece didn't QUITE work, but it was still good. I play the clavicord and a Spinetti. Then Ken agrees to see the starred armor, and #6 is costume armor at 3:45. Then across a courtyard to find the Ethnological Museum, looking at Polynesia, Eskimos, Mexicans, Easter Islanders, Greenlanders, American Indians, and leave exhausted at 4:51, Ken saying his feet won't carry him any farther, except we're off the U3 at 5:08 when he goes for his pants and I sit in the Domplatz Square and watch passersby in the windy coolth of what might be a rainy evening, but the relief from the heat is GREAT. To a travel agency to find that the trains to Bratislava from the Sudbanhof are at 8:15AM and 12:45PM, taking about 45 minutes, and returning about 6:30 for 7:15 arrival, but they have no maps of the city, and it would be 220S per person. Back to hotel at 5:37, taking off all clothes and drinking lots of water and eating some chocolate, and start typing at 5:44. Ken comes back to say he couldn't find a belt 1) too small, 2) no belts, 3) not right color, 4) saleswoman's attitude poor, 5) not exactly what he wanted, so why get it? He takes my 1000S note down to pay our bill, have an orangesaft, and get his laundry back. I finish at 6:10, ready to look through bills and put stuff away from this afternoon, having paid 60S for 6 slides from Ephesus. Only 320S left, better stop at a machine tonight, as well as pick up some deodorant since I'm running out and smelled me, it seemed, during the day today. Sort through souvenirs and put most of them away, making a list of wanted restaurants and places to see, depending on Bratislava after supposed thunderstorms tonight. Ken pays our cash-bill with my last 1000S note, giving back 167S. Put everything away, taking his word to take an umbrella tonight, and finishing this at 6:55PM. Dress to 7:05, leave 7:15, arrive slightly late at 7:35, place filling, two VERY young men sitting across the way: a very urbane blond and his cunt-bearded dard-haired "friend." GREAT service, and Ken falls in love with the second bread-handler. Eat and eat, and record this when I get back to hotel: 11:11:11PM: incredible meal at Steirereck: four amuse bouches: green (bean or pea or both) soup in teeny cup, salmon with dill and cucumber, sweetbread piece on tomato, egg on spinach; then we shared their daily aperitif: champagne with elderberry flavor with a boule of lime sorbet: delicious; wines with each: an eiswein with my goose liver fitted to a melon slice with a coulis of melon and strawberry that I asked for a spoon to finish, and Ken's intensely-tuna tuna salad with a local white wine. Then the fish course: Ken's pike-perch which he insisted was the best fish he ever had, with sprouts, corn, tiny cubes of crisp fresh vegetables, with a mild vinaigrette; my turbot was a bit more bland, but the roasted fennel was quite good. His main quail he loved, my main venison LIMB was overdone and tougher, but my SLICE was wondrous. My cheese WAS to have been one Austrian, but I had EIGHT: reblochon, an Austrian green, rocquefort, an Austrian smoked-brie type, a local pepper-covered, a normal one in the lower corner, with more and more bread, a large red wine, while Ken had parsley sorbet that tasted just like that. Desserts of vanilla ice cream, caramel sauce, and a sesame cookie; and a chocolate gridded patty covered with nuts over wondrous enormous cherries. Then we waited and waited and finally the final trio arrived: strawberry soup, a chocolate-tasting griddle-cake over a chocolate boule, and a mango cake with a dark filling. The Vision five-course cost 950S per person, the wines added were 595S each, our beeren sekts were priced 100S each, and to add to the injury, 60S was added for a cover charge---so I took the German 2001 Relais and Chateaux book! Ken added an overly generous 590S for a total of 4000S. Started raining on the way to the U3, umbrellas up, and back to hotel at 11:05, raining harder, and as we undressed and I caught up with this by 11:27, it rained harder, lightninging and thundering, until it calmed down somewhat after we decided we surely were NOT going to catch the 8:15AM to Bratislava. TIRED at end now at 11:30! Bed 11:40.
TUE, 7/17: Pee at 5:30, clunks outside at 6:15, lay and doze to 8:20 and shit and shower to 8:50. Breakfast 8:57-9:12, kid WHINGEING constantly. Construction scaffolding GONE from building across the street, leaving our last morning before Poland, and our last morning before NYC, possibly quiet. Brush teeth and TV "wetter" and leave at 9:55. House of Music is very GOOD when it works, and AWFULLY frustrating when the electronics don't, as they didn't with the self-conducting (going too fast when you wanted only a LITTLE faster), the text-screens (which REFUSED to turn to next page with ANY regularity) and some of the gimmicks: the earphones that didn't work, the "finger easel" that didn't work of the three there, the microphones that either remained silent or buzzed on and off annoyingly. But the music ITSELF was good, the Haydn and Mozart and Beethoven and Schubert and Mahler. Then we started back toward lunch on the ground floor because Ken was insisting he was going to take the Freud-walk tour at 1:30, saying we had to have lunch by 12:15, and I postponed it a bit, but then we started going backward, down the wrong stairway, and finally a guardette caught up with us and suggested we might want to try the TOP floor, which was somewhat better, and we elevatored up to the top floor to the cafeteria and then walked up another flight to a PERFECT little aerie with a great menu and a charming waiter, getting six tapas of chicken liver, cheese, bacon-wrapped dates, curried chicken, zucchini with tomato and cheese, and prosciutto, and I had a radler and Ken a water and we shared the variation dessert with a pink jelly-mousse, two stale-tasting chocolate spinnings, and great pistachio chips, strawberry halves, raspberries, blueberries, and lots of fruit saucing. RATHER surprised with the 652S bill, over $20 apiece, but that's what it was. Left lunch at 1:39, Ken looking at the rain and deciding he'll NOT take the tour, and he wants to see more of the museum, so we're back for amusement-car rides where I steer toward the red and complexity for about twenty minutes and actually experience a bit of vertigo when I finish, forgetting how such things affect me after a longish time. Dratted KIDS kept trying to push in front, but I pushed in front of them to let Ken do the first conducting, and I didn't do much better. Ken's tired and footsore, so we leave at 4:12, but he stops into Sir Anthony and E. Braun looking for a brown belt, and actually spends over $200 on one at the latter! Then walk around five or six blocks looking for the Figaro house, peeping in at the Mozart Concert venue in a courtyard that looked unchanged in hundreds of years, and finally found Domstrasse and the house, about 5PM, and paid the 25S for photos and what Ken took to be original scores, but which I thought were copies courtesy the mentioned museums, though the gypsum plaque WAS marked as a copy when other things were not. Put on the earphones for the climax of "Figaro" and enjoy it, listening through to the beginning of the Overture, telling Ken I like this, and motion to another couple to put them on, who look at me sceptically, but when I return to get Ken from his chair, they're sitting there smiling beautifically at me and nodding their appreciation for the earphones. Leave 5:24, back to hotel at 5:34 and type this to 6PM, Ken FINALLY finding his address book, not only in the LAST place he looked, but in the SEVENTH-last place he looked and the FIFTEENTH-last place he looked, etc. Meaning he'd looked AT the corner pocket of his suitcase before but thought he was looking at his spare eyeglasses. Glad to know I'm not the WORST when it comes to these things, but why do I have to be traveling with the one who IS the worst? Left foot still sorer than I'd like, but it's settled into the instep of the inside heel, where it was before, rather than traveling elsewhere. We'd also stopped in at the Sacher Hotel to find that their dining room is closed for the summer, but that we'll be welcome to the same food from the same kitchen in the Rote (Red) Bar at 7PM. Getting tired of traveling and eating, but tomorrow is the flight to Krakow, which will change things around! 6:45PM I go to comb my hair and my wooden Peace Palace Hotel comb is GONE! NEVER took it off the shelf and it's GONE. Go on endlessly about it with Ken as we walk to the Sacher about 7:05. Ken has the 50E dinner, substituting char for the venison, starting with saddle of rabbit with meat so white and tender it may as well not have been rabbit. Then the iced tomato soup tastes rather like chilled soup from the tomato-juice can. The skin of the fish was good, but Ken didn't eat it. I start with the Sacher Topsuppe, or something, delicious beef broth with floating bits of beef in a clear delicious broth with tiny cubes of carrots and celery and onion and very short fine noodles, topped with the tiniest bit of chive-ends. Then my beef fillet "ala Anna Sacher" with goose liver on top is perfectly medium rare, vivid concentrated meat sauce, with solid spinach mousse, two rounds of fried mashed potatoes, and pale, almost yellow, carrots with some nice spicing. Ken got cheeses, none great, and his blackcurrannt ice with surrounding fruit was OK, and my Sacher Torte (only 5E) was flavored with I thought maybe coffee, but Ken said no, and I thought I detected its distinctiveness by calling its icing FUDGE, with maybe its touch of vinegar, which contrasted nicely with the rather un-chocolaty torte. The white Riesling for 29E was OK, my glass of Merlot was adequate, so all in all it wasn't a great meal---neither was the staff, who poured the white wine much too fast, who asked if we wanted coffee a total of three times, and who waited a LONG time for dessert. My Visa still works OK in restaurants despite its being refused CASH three times at three different Bankomat machines for "improper code." Back at 10, take off most of clothes despite open window with refreshing breezes, and finish this at 10:21, ready to read Ken's Tribune that he bought for 30S! Read Trib and do puzzles while Ken drops off to sleep after saying he can't sleep with the light on, and as I'm finishing to his snores, he JUMPS up to go to the john, and I pee and get to bed at 10:58.
WED, 7/18: Pee at 1:45. Wake at 5:14 VERY erect with memory of some kind of dream with Madge M wanting me to make her pregnant, and I think that I'm so hard and close to coming that I might actually do it. Luxuriate in the fact that there are no construction sounds coming from next door and fall back to sleep and wake at 6:18 with a vivid dream and get up at 6:21 to go to the john with my notes and laptop to record the dream: I'm enrolled in some fancy IBM-type seminar in what seems to be a cafeteria-cum-conference room: I hang my coat on a hanger on a nail in the corner of the wall and ignore the food service because I've had breakfast, and sit at one of two or three rather crowded tables for maybe 20 each on both sides of the table, listening to a tiny woman like Joan Anne De Mattia talk about new computer or programming developments. We don't seem to be taking notes or asking questions, but after the session we sit around chatting and I survey the group with satisfaction: I'm about the oldest one there, some of the men are attractive and none of the women are real dogs, and the conversations seem friendly and open. Someone makes a remark about "At least not being 75 years old," and there's a rather embarrassed silence until someone next to me asks, with real curiosity, "You're not 75, are you?" and I reply, simply, "No," and the group seems relieved. "Closer than you, though," and everyone laughs. Think that the following days will be pleasant enough, and I retrieve my coat from the nail on the wall and walk outside where it's raining. I think I might as well get groceries on the way home because it's the last thing I have to do, besides return the library book that I'd been planning to return anyway, and then I'll be totally caught up. It's raining, and I'm very conscious of my shoes' solid purchase on the sometimes-paved and sometimes-dirt paths on which the rainwater is flowing over on my way home, looking down at my very narrow new-suit dark-blue trousers and black-leather shoes, thinking that everyone's dressed so casually that I'll be more informal tomorrow and won't have to worry about wrinkling my new suit. Somene had asked me what I was doing with IBM now, and I replied that I was a freelance indexer, and she replied "Extracting indexes!" with such amazement that I wondered whether I hadn't inadvertantly used some kind of buzzword that implied I did more "scientific" work that I actually did. Pleased to be attending the conference. Finish typing this out, after a good shit, at 6:34AM, pleased that the sky is TOTALLY blue after weather forecasts of clouds and rain from most of the TV stations. Do a good Actualism session, on and off, and get up at 7:43 to shower, including hair, getting out at 8 with Ken chafing at the bit to get in. A dog barking outside reminds me how dog-QUIET the city's been so far, but kid-loud certainly. And tourist-crowded, and construction-intensive. But all in all not a bad place to live, with the NOT generally VERY hot summers and the "lungs" of the surrounding woods cleaning the air daily. BUT then there's the German language, which we're really not learning, sounding so unpleasantly on the ear, and the number of museums that DO have English translations makes the ones that DON'T even the more frustrating, like the Philharmonic's announcements to the incompetent conductors, or the musical instruments and arms in the Hofburg. Yet a good town nonetheless: good food to be had, prices not ridiculous, people very civilized, transportation excellent (WHY doesn't NYC incorporate that WONDERFUL "two minutes to next train" that so many European cities have?), and Ken's hotel selection here was tops---let's hope it holds true in Krakow. Now 8:06 and can't think of anything to say, except that I'm constantly counting the days left, worried how I'm going to survive the FORTY away in the South Pacific, except that it'll be the LAST planned trip for awhile. AND lots of it will be alone, without all of Ken's annoying mannerisms which are, I keep reminding myself, amply redeemed by his good characteristics of being willing to plan and conduct us everywhere, albeit with excessive warnings, earliness, and precautions. Just to be taken in moderation. Stop at 8:08. Sort out a bag of papers to be left here, putting them into an opaque bag in a clear bag and take it down with us to breakfast, where meine hostesse declares, "Why you bring it down here; I told you to leave it in the room." "I thought this was better." "Just do as I say!" Ken thinks he might adapt this way of talking to me. Breakfast 8:30-9, light; haggard guy in sockless sandals smoking away at next table making absence pleasant. Back up to pack a bit more. #7 Jesuitkirke at 9:48. Dominican Church is very dark in person, very light in the 5S postcard at 9:57. (10S for 2 from Jesuit). Otto Wagner's Postsparkasse to 10:26, #8 outside it. To U3 (third-last pass-day) at 10:37. Back to hotel at 10:50 for Ken to pay for his drinks (twice, when she called to say she found more bills), and I finish packing and Ken's down and I finish this at 11:12, ready to wait for 11:30 taxi, ordered already. "Ask" for wooden comb, but she doesn't recognize it. Sit in hot dining room to 11:21, when she makes it clear that the taxi is ALREADY waiting downstairs! Into cab at 11:22, driven by a parkinsonian driver! To airport quickly by 11:40, and get AISLE seat! Stop at Austrian Air to get WINDOW (Ken had BOTH windows) on the way back. Quick airlines/airport survey, but I stretched 17 flights in last year to 25. Now 12:20, no one to ASK if lunch is on plane. 1:04 get reply "Come back in ten minutes to find out about window seat." Work puzzle. 1:15 GET RIGHT window seat! Board AT the propeller at 1:28. Forty-five minute flight announced, off at 1:43. GREAT views of farmland and little villages and roads at what seems like about half-normal jet-height, and then it gets clouded over at 2:08, no mountains poking through at all. At 2:15 it clears enough for me to see an enormous church or monastery surrounded by tour busses at 2:18. More farms and hills, one even just brushing cloud-bottom, and then long descent into clouds and out for view over Cracow that I try to take #two (9 and 10?) pictures of and land at 2:26, 38 minutes for an announced 75-minute flight! Half the estimated time. Quick! Now sure that I'd used Visa card in the Bankomat rather than my HSBC card! Get 300Z at 2:49, about $75. Ken buys one map and two guides for 18Z. To taxi at 3:02 and hotel about 3:30, looking at farms outside airport and poor rural scenes and parks around Old Town and narrow streets before flag showing Hotel Copernicus. 54Z for taxi, exactly what's on meter, and he thanks us. Room 105, making a 6-6:30 dinner reservation, and our tour is tomorrow to Zakopane. Leave room at 3:45. Dominican Church at 4:15, Catacombs to 4:30. Franciscan Church has a MASS, but we look through Chancel to 4:46. Across to look at where Pope John Paul lived before he became Pope. #11 Church of Sts. Peter and Paul at 5:05. #12 Holy Goose for Ken's Jay at 5:20. #13 pulpit-boat in St. Andrews at 5:31. Back to hotel 5:42, unpack to 6:20. Walk great square to 6:58 and to dinner at Copernicus Restaurant just after 7PM, starting alone in tiny dining room, below the empty balcony, joined by two fussy Americans later who could only have one salt-roasted sea bass because I had the first of only two they stocked. Wine OK, garlic soup at start is wonderful, but salt crumbles around bass and it's bland/salty by turns, not best-cooked like Canary Islands. Desserts adequate, but we're not stuffed. 340+35Z tip. 10PM sit in cafe in square so Ken can pee, and he gets espresso deskaffeinata and I get a Malibu liquor for 2.56, obviously a wrong figure. To hotel at 10:37 after two french-horn concert and lots of people passing, including a macho Justus guy. Bed 10:45.
THU, 7/19: Dream and pee at 5AM. Doze to alarm-call at 6:30. Breakfast 7:05-7:40 after trying for a LONG time to find the mechanism to transfer the shower water from the three side nozzles to the main-above nozzle, at last finding it when I bent over and saw the knob directly BELOW the shower-temperature control, conventiently set at a "lock" at 38 degrees. Down at 8AM to find the FEMALE guide there, and she leads us out to a Mercedes with a bulky driver who seems to speak no English, and we're both disappointed it isn't the GUY the girl at the desk spoke so highly of. Not to mention upping the estimate from $125, or 500Z, to 700Z (though Ken later finds that it WAS 700Z that was quoted!). #19 end of trail and purple flowers at 12:49. Take lots of pictures coming down from the cave, which was a REAL ordeal, Ken suffering from sore thighs throughout the following day, and my left foot was VERY sore by the time the day ended, and the cave really wasn't that great, only the THERENESS of it giving it any benefit at all: there in the middle of the western Tatras (not even having that name yet, but something like Biamest) with Kasia leading us and taking us in among the school groups. #30 road back at 1:46. Rocks at 2:36. To the town of Zakopane and finish lunch at 3:45, good Mountain soup and mushrooms and beer mixed with 100mg of raspberry concentrate, and a picture of the waitress with the hanging soup tureen and the different-hued beer-glass. Roll #4, #1 1790 wood church at 3:58. #2 Zakopane cemetery at 4:17, and then #3 and #4 of a Zolnierczyk grave! MOST unexpected and rather chilling! AK=sergeant of underground in World War II. #5 house at 4:41. Szymanoski house after it closed, to listen to a practicing pianist for the concert that night, free to 5:01. #7 main mall of Zakopane at 5:34, sitting, for Ken's CD-shopping before 6PM pickup. Shit at 6 for 1z! Car goes at 6:10, hotel at dot of 8. TIRED! Leave at 9:20 to Krew I Roza. To roof at 9:49 to rain, to fireplace room to 10:40 with hot wine with cinnamon and cloves for me and cherry vodka, good, and Sex on the Beach, OK, for Ken. Bed at 10:48, STEWED with fatigue.
FRI, 7/20: 5:40 pee and shit and write DREAM F, I think, and my nose bleeds when I blow it, but it dries up quickly. Cold and cover myself with the top quilt and wake at 8:20, out of shower at 8:45 and put stuff away to 8:57 while Ken's in bathroom, and type to 9:14, when we go to breakfast until 10, leave at 10:12 to Wawel Castle. #8 St. Jadwiga's relics (canonized in 1997) at 10:35 in cathedral. To cathedral tickets at 10:44. #9 Pilsudski's tomb at 10:52. #15 big bell at 11:09. Out 11:20, castle tickets by 11:40 on lengthy line, reservations going. #19 monstrance in cathedral museum at 11:56. #21 1504 Cracow chasuble at 11:58. #22 Wawel Castle court at 12:02. Apartments (no photos allowed) 12:05-12:45. Armor 12:55-1:45; into Nu Wawalu at 1:48. Poor asparagus and ham and cream, Ken's blini and caviar great. Good Rully wine, four glasses for 192z lunch only $48. Private apartments 2:56, across in rain, ending at 3:40 with Ken's calling the guide an automaton, but she'd answer any question given her. Out at the entrance to Oriental Art, for 6Z, even though it closes at 4PM, and through at 3:57. 4:22 to Dragon's Den, which Ken doesn't want to do, but we're THERE and it's only 3z, but it takes a long time to print out and when I get ticket and present it to the girl and follow everyone down the spiral staircase, it goes down and down and DOWN until it's perfectly clear that I'll NOT get out at the top, and sure enough after caverns of no particular splendour, but some size, we exit at the Vistula River, WAY down from the castle wall above. Try to see Ken above, but he's not visible, so I trudge all the way back to the top to find him gone, and then go back down to get momentarily lost, asking directions from a loony woman until I happen to see Grozda Street and know where I am and get back to hotel at 4:50 to find a note from Ken saying he'll meet me at 6:30 for a drink but he's going to the church on the square, and signs it at 4:45. I drink lots of water and pee and get out at 4:55 to St. Mary's and see him inside after paying 3z and finding that the Mass prevents us from getting a close look at the Viet Stoss Altar that we'd paid to see! Clearly a redone church, brightly colored and gilded with lots of people. Then he tries to see some other churches, reads his guidebook's way around the buildings of the square, and when rain threatens he insists on returning to the hotel for umbrellas, but I say my foot's too sore to walk back and then return, so at 6:05 he gives me directions to Chimera 2 and returns to the hotel while I sit on the fountain. As luck would have it, it starts raining in a few minutes: I try to find a good place to sit but there's none without having a drink. Try the east side but there's no view, so I go up and down both sides of the shops inside, lots of amber and jewelry and shoes and stuff, and then out on the west side to see an empty table and try to order something interesting but the waitress insists she has only beer, so I have .5 liter of ordinary beer for 7z and watch the lightning in the west and the DARK clouds dim the light in the square, and then Malik asks if I'm from the states, and we get into a long chat which would have been MUCH more interesting had he been CUTE, with his large clear blue eyes and American heftiness. Talk of lots of things, and at 7:25 I say "In a few minutes it'll slow," and it DOES, so I try to [10:40PM, 7/20] find a way to the south through the cafe, (oh, took #26 Cloth Hall at 5:38 and #27 interior at 6:18) but it's closed in. Try the WC but it's 1z so I avoid that! Put on the hat and it's raining, and find Gebele (or whatever) street and go back and forth twice with the numbers making NO sense at all, and see Ken with his raingear and umbrella, and he hands me mine, saying he brought my SHIRT, too, and we find that Chimera 2 had moved out. I suggest we go somewhere else that was recommended to us, and he finds Cherubim, which we walk a long way to and find it and order OK pinot grigio and a decent onion soup for me and a salad for him, with GREAT beech-roasted veal with three kinds of mushroom for me and spaghetti putanesca for Ken, and then almond cookies and Vin Santa for me and a chocolate-nut cake for him with hot Polish wine for half the price of mine last night. Some cute passersby, and we leave about 9:45 and walk slowly back to the hotel because of his thighs and my foot, and he begs me to have a drink outside, but I say I have a lot of typing to do, so we're up at 10:05 and he rather quickly goes to bed and I finish this at last at 10:47PM, having been over a day behind for the first time in ages, butt tired and quite ready for bed. Take pills. Bed 11PM.
SAT, 7/21: Pee at 2:30. Pee at 6:30 and write Dream G. Ken's awake, but says "It's too early." I doze and think about the coming end of the trip, with all the things left to do in NYC, including preparing for the Games group in September by making some semblance of room in my dining room by filing the travel stuff on shelves emptied of books and getting rid of lots of Pope's stuff either by giving it to him or throwing it away. Also counting days, meals, breakfasts, orgasm-denial-times, and various other items to the end of this trip with only ONE trip left to worry about which is long enough away that I can RELAX for a change in NYC. He's up at 8:11 and I put dried stuff away (though Ken says they predict RAIN today; they'll reconfirm our flights, and check-out time tomorrow is 1PM which they may extend til 1:30 since our flight isn't until 3:30. Ken's out of the john at 8:26 and I shower to 8:45. Breakfast 8:50-9:30, lots of good stuff, but their melons are always served unripe, as, as Ken points out, was the star-apple in Vienna. Up to type this until 9:38, ready for the day mapped out yesterday by Ken, hopefully not obstructed by rain. I put on my penultimate pair of clean socks since the clean ones that got wet yesterday are still stinky this morning. Leave 9:53. #28 Florian's Gate, built 1298, at 10:15. To Barbican 10:25. #29 inside Barbican (4z) 10:30. Out 10:50. To Czartoryski at 10:55, museum to 12:03, incredible collection, the da Vinci sadly looking overcleaned and the black background does seem to be a disservice. Poor shop, buying two books and turning down a 90z book which could have been better constructed. Out of shop 12:17, Ken getting the next stop together. To Collegium Maius (Jagellonium) at 12:40, and get two tickets for the sold-out free tour for 1:20. Across street to Padua Restaurant for my ham/mushroom/cheese pizza and Ken's cheese/mushroom crepe and our two half-liters of Zywiec for 7z each. Out at 1:16 and DASH across street. #30 Jagiellonian Court at 1:20. #31 library at 1:26. #32 refectory at 1:32. #34 assembly room at 1:52. Out at 1:57. To interactive Science to 2:14. To shop and pee to 2:23. To Zdolzak to nothing much to 2:41. To Cloth Hall museum at 2:48. #36 Henryk Siemiradzki "Nero's Torches." #37 Jan Matejka "Kusciusko at Raclawice" at 3:14. It's closing and they catch me for the 15z camera-ticket, so I might as well USE it! Roll #5 #1 Sultan's Slave and #2 Gladiator by Pius Wojtowych. #3 Abduction of Sabine by Stanislas Levandowski. #4 Slav Breaking Bonds. Leave 3:26. To Brandy Alexander at Jama Michalika Restaurant per Ken's recommendation. #5 ceiling glass at 3:52. Leave 4:15, warm, though it hasn't rained YET today, predicted to rain ALL day! To Palace of Art 4:25-5PM, where Ken buys a good Topor book and the rest of the stuff is pretty poor. Get lost trying for the next place, and Ken goes back and asks and finds it around the corner from the square: "Leading the Life" at 5:15 for toys and huge inflatables to 5:35. #6 St. John Kety's tomb in St. Anne's Church at 5:47. We look around and find there's a wedding at 6PM, which we stay for, getting in the pictures and listening to the organ music. But when the priest starts talking we leave at 6:06. To Hotel at 6:20 where we find they tried to check our reservation on Lot, while Ken was sure he told them Austrian. They have to check first thing tomorrow. To bar on roof at 6:35 for GOOD vodka Zoledkova Gorzka and Ken's Old Krupnik Polish Honey Liquor. Back to room at 7:15, paying 24.60 for drinks. Leave at 7:26 for 197z great dinner at Pod Baranor for fabulous wild mushroom soup in bread-dish and Ken's herring, my wild boar with JARZEBINA and fried NEW cabbage, and Ken's stuffed duck with great french fries, and my good strawberry cake for dessert and his Baran-special with cream and cinnamon. Leave at 9:15 as place fills up with French, feeling good with the 95z Australian Shiraz wine in large glasses, and the taste of the not-fat, not-vegetable, not-meat "vorspiese" at the beginning. Walk slowly back to hotel on streets wet with the rain that we completely avoided, and back to hotel at 9:25. Put things away and type from 9:32 to 9:52, catching up to date so I can brush my teeth and get to bed EARLY for tomorrow's last sights of Cracow. Brush teeth and TV to 10:16. Ken says, "Let's get up at 7:30AM." Bed at 10:22PM. Wake and look at watch at 11:51PM.
SUN, 7/22: Wake at 2:52AM and pee. Type DREAM H when I wake about 5AM. Wake at 6:10 and can't get back to sleep, even debating putting in a wake-up call so I can sleep if I want to, or not. But I look at my watch at 6:15 and 6:25 and 6:30 and think about the joys of jerking off, counting only this morning and tomorrow morning where I'll have to stifle these thoughts, and finally get up at 6:45 and shower, washing my hair and everything thoroughly, talcing for the second straight day, deodorizing, cleaning my ears with swabs, and finally get out to see Ken fumbling for his watch, asking for the time, and I suggest it's about 7:20 and look at my watch to see that it's 7:21, and he says he'll get up. I start typing at 7:28, glad for the chance to put down some thoughts, and pointedly CLOSE the bathroom door that Ken has only half pulled-to, so that I don't have to listen to the details of his urinary tinkles, his farts, his explosions into the commode, his clearing-of-throat, his coughs, his blowing of nose, and all the other little intimacies that I think even MARRIED people should be sheltered from if their marriage is to remain patent. Now 7:32 and can't think of anything more to type except that I'm tired though I should be rested with the more than eight hour's sleep last night, and thinking with enjoyment, nay, ecstasy, that TOMORROW NIGHT I'll be home from the PENULTIMATE trip of the year! Thought Ken might be coming out and the shower starts: he's gotten into the habit of every-other-day showering, which I've now gotten OUT of the habit of since I'm not wearing the odor-eaters and it's been raining which really brings out the pong in my socks, which I won't change today so I'll have my last fresh pair to wear tomorrow on the final flights. Get out the chapstick for my lips, which were quite sore yesterday where I'd nibbled off a bit too much of loose flesh, and they feel better even though they'll leave a red, waxy ring around the glasses from which I'll drink my breakfast, including the last of the fabulous dinner-drink-quality hot chocolates I've been having here at the Hotel Copernicus in Cracow, Poland, the world, the universe. Now 7:35AM and I'm REALLY babbling! I have 62z left, more than enough for today's entries and half the taxi; I suspect Ken will have to "spend down" to get rid of his cash. Will wait to think about the last of the Austrian schillings for today's packing. Breakfast 7:52-8:32, first down, lot of talk about Polish grandparents. Leave hotel 8:39 for long walk down Copernicus to Zoobiological Gardens, open at 9AM for 2z each, at 9:08 for ruined sections and some are valiantly trying to be nice with ponds and water lilies and labels, others just plain fields and woods. Lots of snails, no visitors until we leave. Ken can't find the john, and when he does he won't accept my toilet paper. #8 roses, like whole garden, glorious even if past prime at 9:21. He won't even wait to SEE if the museum opens at 10AM, but it looks like sterile exhibits behind glass inside anyway, so I leave with him at 9:59, walking slightly different ways so I pass and visit dark gold inside of Bernardine Convent at 10:21. Back to hotel (they STILL haven't checked flights, finally knowing they have to phone the AIRPORT, since Austrian Airlines is closed on Sunday!) at 10:25, Ken quickly to john, flushing twice, so it must be rank, and I catch up with this at 10:32, ready to try the Archaeological Museum which his book says is open at 11 but the sign outside yesterday said was open at 10AM. I've got to pee, too! Still looking like, but not really, raining. Leave 10:35; Wyspianski Museum, "open 10-3" is CLOSED today, sorry. To Archaeological Museum at 10:40 for 7z, puzzling because all the rooms light AFTER I walk into them, and I couldn't tell if the sign said "No flash photography," or "Lights aren't working," or something else. #9 Phallic figurines at 11:08. #10 12 Century site of Cracow at 11:20, #11 Closeup of Cracow model. #12 Cracow from air-photo 11:25. Ojcow Castle and National Park just north of Cracow. Leave 11:36, GORGEOUS garden of roses, hydrangeas, lilies, and others, and SCULPTURE, some funnily modern---or modernly funny. #13 rose at 11:45. To 11:50. Bernardine Convent-church at noon. To Orient Express for mushroom soup, avocado and shrimps, and half-carafe of wine. CUTE waiter; Ken pays 120z CASH for GOOD lunch. Leave at 1:05. Back to hotel at 1:09. Out of room 1:28. Ken pays 417.60z bill! Call taxi at 1:32, and taxi arrives at 1:32!! Arrive airport at 1:48, with meter ticked over to 116.5z! It's SUNDAY rates! Driver understands, accepts Ken's 45z and my 51z and my $5 bill for the 20.50 remaining. Check in by 1:57. Ken shops, I sit and do puzzles to departure at 2:24. Board 3:08. One hour flight. Off at 3:29, but 3:32 into clouds constant until just before landing at 4:21. Onto bus at 4:47, to bus stop at 5:12. Onto U3 at 5:20 with our 8-day ticket, to hotel at 5:30, to room 19 which I don't check out, and I look for my left bag in three places before going INTO the room and there's the bag on the chair next to Ken, who looks at me mildly and says "I thought you came in and put it there." Start typing 5:54, but at 6PM Ken says "Let's go sit in the platz." We dress and leave at 6:17. He wants to sit in a cafe, but I find a nice concrete fence right at the corner of the platz and he agrees it's a good view, looking at the five tumblers for awhile, then at the puppeteer who leaves his equipment for the kids to possibly mess with, and he'd phoned for a 7:30 reservation and GOTTEN it at Do & Co, so we sit and watch the mostly ugly, some great, one of the hunky ones being the doorman at the Haas House when we enter for Do & Co at 7:32. Ask for an outside table and GET it, second from the closest to the sunset, and it starts coloring up right at the start, variously pinkening several buildings behind me which Ken points out, and I point out the coloration behind me, which gives him a chance to ogle the good-looking guy that I ogle throughout dinner. It's better than before: thin-sliced veal with cream sauce and marinated arugula and caper berries for appetizer with a good Gewurtztraminer wine, while he overeats with bouillabaisse with rouille, and then my "Clipper" Do & Co has giant shrimp, sea bass, monkfish, and salmon on spinach with potatoes, and he has lots of giant shrimp in a buttery-garlicky sauce, and then his sorbet desserts of which I finish the passion fruit and strawberries (OH, I remember the wonderful ripe raspberries in the zoological garden!!) and kiwi and sorbets of his dish while having no trouble with my non-brownie brownies with chocolate sauce, whipped cream, and pieces of fruit--AND large chunks of his discus-thick sugar-plate bottom. Cigar-smoker turns us both off, but the light on the Stephensdom tower and the continuing apricots and peaches and aubergines on the western horizon continue to fascinate until his pays the 1622+200z tip, going over the 900S for the $60 he owes me for the room refund in Cracow, and we're just about even! He's totally stuffed, refusing to look at ANYTHING I point out of interest in the square, and back to hotel at 9:45, up to undress and start typing at 9:54 while he undresses and lies on his bed, moaning, and I finish this at 10:11PM, ready for the LAST go-to-sleep of the trip!! Just tossed all the bags on the floor: I'll pack tomorrow while he's in the tub which I won't touch, using my last fresh socks to cover up my smelly feet for the last day of the trip. Only got to card 6 for my notes, but will probably go into file 4 before the end of these notes. Got to extract the quilt from the duvet, take my Pravachol, and get to bed in time to get to the 9AM opening of the Natural History Museum, the last sight to be seen. Ken starts snoring. Room is larger than before, but more expensive too. We could have seen us leaning out the window from our table on top of Do & Co. Nice to have money. Finish this at 10:14PM at last. Bed at 10:20PM.
MON, 7/23: Pee at 1:35; pee and shit at 5:15. RAINING very hard, lovely to listen to the sound unchallenged by sounds of traffic or people or Ken's snoring. Scattered dreams and dozing and a TRY, unsuccessful, at Actualism, and it's VERY noisy outside (Cracow was a blessing in THAT regard). Wake to Ken in bathroom at 7:30. LAST DAY! Repack to 8, when Ken demands breakfast. Shit to 8:05, and breakfast 8:10-8:27, and type to 8:32 when Ken demands we "maximize time at museum which opens at 9AM." Leave 8:40. U3 (last ticket-day) 8:47-8:50. In for 25S at 9AM: WONDEFRUL displays on first floor. #16 dwarf elephants, 30,000BC, Greek isles and Sicily at 9:31! First floor to 9:37, and it's QUIET! #17 Venus of Willendorf at 9:53, and #18 and #19 of eight figures on either side. #20 32,000-year-old von Galgenberg statuette. "Stinkstein" from Dead Sea in vase. #21 jewel tree at 10:27. BENDABLE stone! #22 two-star quartz meter-long crystal from Madagascar at 10:38. #23 asymmetric fish at 10:46. Some SUPER-TALL GOOD-LOOKING guys! Into U at 11:05. Hotel 11:20. RUSH! Into cab 11:35. Arrive 11:56, Ken pays 450S. Ken has refund to get, and his bag is 60 pounds while mine is 24. Buy booze in CASH, with my very last money, by 12:20. Borrow 38S for Johannisbeer Wlictor! Ken eats to 12:40. Ken goes to bank to 12:47. Through gate at 1:20. Board and pee at 1:50. Take off at 2:23 for 55-minute flight, LONG wait to take off! #24 Salzburg at 2:45, GREAT alps and clouds. Bumpy landing at 3:18, exactly 55 minutes. Off plane at 3:27. Puzzles, board 4:24! 8:10 flight announced. Off at 5:15. #25 and #26 Zurich at 5:17. HORRIBLE bumps to 5:40! #27 Millenium dome at 6:17. #28 London! at 6:18. 8:23 take pills and TRY TO SLEEP. 9:43 give up and change watch to 3:43. 3:42 left! Tried TV-game of Shanghai, slow-going but I won very first game after long backup. Bumpy down at 6:55 but I'm calm. #29 and #30 Albany Center at 6:52. Very HAZY over New York State. Land at 7:24, taking pictures #31-37 on way down. Ken leaves for his bus to Penn Station for subway home. I get bag at 7:52. WAIT for bus with Ken. On World Trade Center bus at 8:10, for $11, hot outside but cool in bus. To World Trade Center at 8:43, sun down. Into taxi for $7.50 and home at 8:55. Three calls: 1) Mary Anne Bruckner WITH index, 2) Blanche with Piri's hostessing Games, 3) Mildred about lunch tomorrow. Weigh A&K bag at 16 pounds and blue bag at 26 for a total of 42. Take melitonin and pravachol and pee and shit and get to bed at 9:21. WELL, at 9:35 my balls tighten, my nipples harden, and I get up to j/o to 10:15.
TUE, 7/24: Wake 1:28, cold, and pee. Wake and doze, and at 3:57 look at clock again, then conjure mympths, strongly! Up at 5AM after 6.75 hours of sleep. Shit copiously. Unpack to 6:30 all BUT souvenirs. Go through ALL mail to 8AM! FINISH mail and mail Amex bill and 5 films to 8:45. Eat breakfast and sort pills to 9:25. LW with Shawana Harper about HIP at 9:30. LW with Mary Anne Bruckner by 9:35. Talk to Mildred to 9:55, Blanche to 10:10, Steve Pisano to 10:15, and fix puzzle-sheets to 10:20. Then input laptop while sorting through for VISA bills and withdrawals and note-pages, then finish typing this at 11:10, down to FOUR piles: 1) call-back from HIP, 2) call-back from Pisano, 3) dental cleaning, and 4) IRS Form 5500 by 7/31. Feel GOOD!!! Proofread to 11:30, Spartacus calls to 12:45. Watch "Fabiola" for 15 minutes, proof to 1:15 and get ready to leave for lunch. Argue with Mildred about Venus of Willendorf. Back to buy groceries. Talk to Ken, leave word with Carolyn, talk to Shelley, talk to Carolyn, talk lengthily to Pope, play FreeCell, check Juno mail, j/o 8:30-9:10, watch Expanding Universe program on that I'd already seen to 10,& bed at 10:10.
WED, 7/25: Pee at 2:20 and take .5mg melitonin. Wake twice more. Up at 5:40 after 7.5 hours. Work 6:50 on Cytology 209 and 2:30 on Cytology 210 indexes, get my physical with Chin, talk to John & Ken, phone Charles & Vicki & Sherryl, who invites me to her Saturday soiree. Watch VCR to end of magician's program and bed at 10:57, talking pravachol and melitonin but feeling ALMOST normal!
THU, 7/26: Wake 2:10, pee at 5:10, feel sexy so I j/o in bed 6-6:30. Finish index in 3:20 and have breakfast and deliver index, get my foot x-rayed, talking again to Pope. Proof and print this to 3:45PM. Handle DREAMS to 4:20. Finish Summary Page to 5:10. Finish Slide Pages to 5:40. Get to Tad's Steaks with Charles, dessert at Ben and Jerry's, then "Rocky Horror." Bed 11:20PM.
FRI, 7/27: Wake 6:50AM with dream, finally back to normal: finish note-taking.
VIENNA/CRACOW SUMMARY PAGE
MON, 7/9: Dine at Delaney's Bar at JFK. Fly 8:28PM to Vienna via Zurich.
TUE, 7/10: Land 9:25AM in Zurich. Fly to Vienna 12:28-1:16PM. To Pension Neuer Markt, not air-conditioned but central. Walk St. Stephan's Platz, to top of tower. Dine at Reinthalen Beisl with pork "Vienna style" and bed 8:12PM.
WED, 7/11: Tour Schonbrunn Palace with Grand Tour and shop; Carriage Museum; Marionette Museum. Residenz Restaurant lunch. Glorietta, Zoo, and Maze. Dine at Esterhazy Keller, dessert at Cafe Mozart, and bed 10:15PM.
THU, 7/12: Kunstmuseum for Art Objects, lunch, El Greco, Luca Giordano, paintings by van Eyck and Breughel. Dine at Korso; people-watch on street.
FRI, 7/13: Opera House tour including backstage. Oberne and Lower Belvedere Museums and Medieval Art. Schwarzenburg Palace Terrace for lunch. Tour Karlskirche, Secession Building, and Bildenden Kunst is closing. Do & Co Onyx Bar for drinks; dine at Venezia Pizza; Barbara Hendricks at Theater Am Der Wein, drinks at outdoor Weinwurm Cafe, and bed 11:57PM, the latest of trip.
SAT, 7/14: Bus tour of Vienna Woods, Mayerling Chapel, Heiligekreuz Cistercian Monastery, boat in Seegrotto. Lunch at Furhrich. Park. MAK Museum. Do & Co dinner. Watch performers in Stephensplatz.
SUN, 7/15: Hundertwasser Haus; Kunsthaus for Tiffany lamps and lunch in garden. Strauss Museum, Reisenrad ferris-wheel in Prater in extreme heat. Drinks at Weinwurm Cafe. Tram to Grinzing for dinner at Martin Sepp: Hurtigerplatte.
MON, 7/16: Hofburg for Kaiser's Apartments, Silberkammer, Schatzkammer, Hofchapelle, lunch in Silberkammer Cafe. Ephesus Museum, Musical Instruments, Armor, Ethnological Museums. Dine at fabulous Steirereck: Vision five-course.
TUE, 7/17: House of Music, good Cantino lunch; Figaro House. Dine at Sacher Hotel, ending with dessert of original (and not very good) Sacher Torte.
WED, 7/18: Jesuitkirke, Dominican Church, Otto Wagner's Postsparkasse. Fly to Cracow 1:43-2:26. To Hotel Copernicus. Dominican Church, Catacombs, Franciscan Church, Church of Sts. Peter and Paul, St. Andrews, and square with Cloth Hall. Dinner in Copernicus Restaurant disappointing with poor salt-roasted sea bass.
THU, 7/19: 8AM car-guide trip to Zakopane for long trail and rough cave. Mountain-Folk Restaurant for lunch. Wood church and Zakopane Cemetery with Zolnierczyk grave. Szymanoski House, Zakopane Mall. Dine at Krew I Roza. Ken has Sex on the Beach in the Fireplace Room while I drink hot cinnamon wine.
FRI, 7/20: Wawel Castle and Cathedral and Nu Wawalu Restaurant for lunch. Royal Apartments and Armor, Private Apartments and Oriental Art. Dragon's Den. St. Mary's Church, churches and buildings around square, Malik and beer in rain. Cloth Hall shops. Dine at Cherubim in rain.
SAT, 7/21: Florian's Gate and Barbican. Czartoryski Museum great! Padua Restaurant lunch. Collegium Maius tour and Interactive Science exhibit. Cloth Hall Museum. Jama Michalika Art Deco Restaurant for drinks. Palace of Art and "Leading the Life" Museum. St. Anne's Church and drinks on Copernicus rooftop. Pod Baranor for dinner during rain.
SUN, 7/22: Zoobiological Gardens, Bernardine Convent, Archaeological Museum and garden. Orient Express for lunch. Fly Cracow-Vienna 3:29-4:21. Sit in Stephansplatz. Dine better at Do & Co.
MON, 7/23: Natural History Museum. Fly Vienna-Zurich 2:23-3:18. Fly Zurich-Newark 5:15-7:24, first half-hour VERY bumpy! Home 8:55, j/o, bed 10:15.
VIENNA/CARCOW SLIDES
ROLL #1:
#1-3 were taken on way to landing at Zurich.
#4 over Zurich taking off.
#5 Vienna at 1:14.
#6 St. Stephan's exterior with ORIENTAL marching band.
#7 columns inside as ALTARS at 4:27.
#8 pulpit from 1480.
#10 pest monument and other towers at 5:48.
#11 Caesar's Jewelry facade.
#12 Schonbrunn at 8:57.
#13 garden from palace at 9:46.
#14 Neptune fountain at 2:36.
#15 up to Glorietta at 2:45.
#16 FROM Glorietta at 2:55.
#?? 28-day old yellow spider monkey at 4:11.
#21 two MEN embracing in ivory at 10:34.
#22 study collection shelf at 10:58.
#23 Della Robbia: Alexander the Great at 11:03.
#24 house altar, four artists, 23 years.
#25 Cellini cup---only SURE Cellini at 11:31.
#26 Canova: Theseus (and fuck the Minotaur) at 12:36.
#27 Greco: Trinity at 2:01.
#28 Laocoon at 2:33, still the sexiest body in art.
#29 Theseus again, from below, at 4:46.
#30 Opera foyer, 1869, at 10:15.
#31 "Tea Room," naming about 100 Kammer Singers at 10:33.
#32 Oberne Belvedere and jet at 12:25.
#33 Lower Belvedere room at 12:43.
#34 fountain at 2:37.
#35 dome of Karlskirche at 2:51.
#36 Secession Building at 3:09.
#37 Secession and Ken at 3:36.
Roll #2:
#1 Karlsplatz kiosk.
#2 Karlskirche at 3:58.
#3 Mayerling Chapel at 10:54.
#4 monument to Prince Rudolf in Vienna, destroyed in 1945.
#5 choir stalls at 11:31.
#6 inside wood cabinetry at 11:37.
#7 baptistry at 11:43, which turns into a water-source on the tour.
#8 Totenchapelle at 11:44.
#9 courtyard at 11:54.
#10 is map.
#11 Haenkel 152/163, first JET.
#12 descent to boat at 12:39.
#13 "Three Musketeers" Disney prop at 12:54.
#14 Johann Strauss and Ken at 2:47.
#15 Hundertwasser Haus at 9:41.
#16 and #17 impossible-to-photo over obstructions at 9:55.
#18 Toilet of Modern Art sign at 9:58.
#19 Two maidens in distress at 10:26, along Danube.
#20 Kunsthaus fountain at 10:39. Entry 120S!
#21 stairway between Hundertwasser and Tiffany at 10:53.
#22 model of house at 11:10.
#23 lunch at 12:36.
#24 Carmen Miranda at 12:41.
#31 Hercules entrance to Hofburg at 9:20.
ROLL #2 (continued):
#32 gold service at 9:58.
#33 many of the pieces at 10:33.
#34 crown, no flash, at 11AM.
#35 right-hand nail from cross at 11:49.
#36 white horses at entrance at 12:39.
ROLL #3
#1-4 trying to "make up for" poorly-designed Ephesus Museum.
#5 MODEL of Vienna from 1850 in Musical Instruments section.
#6 is costume armor at 3:45.
#7 Jesuitkirke at 9:48.
#8 outside Otto Wagner's Postsparkasse to 10:26.
#9 and 10 pictures of Cracow before landing at 2:26,
#11 Church of Sts. Peter and Paul at 5:05.
#12 Holy Goose for Ken's Jay at 5:20.
#13 pulpit-boat in St. Andrews at 5:31.
#19 end of trail and purple flowers at 12:49.
Take lots of pictures coming down from the cave.
#30 road back at 1:46.
ROLL #4:
#1 1790 wood church at 3:58.
#2 Zakopane cemetery at 4:17.
#3 and #4 of a Zolnierczyk grave!
#5 house at 4:41.
#7 main mall of Zakopane at 5:34.
#8 St. Jadwiga's relics (canonized in 1997) at 10:35 in cathedral.
#9 Pilsudski's tomb at 10:52.
#15 big bell at 11:09.
#19 monstrance in cathedral museum at 11:56.
#21 1504 Cracow chasuble at 11:58.
#22 Wawel Castle court at 12:02.
#26 Cloth Hall at 5:38.
#27 interior at 6:18.
#28 Florian's Gate, built 1298, at 10:15.
#29 inside Barbican (4z) 10:30.
#30 Jagiellonian Court at 1:20.
#31 library at 1:26.
#32 refectory at 1:32.
#34 assembly room at 1:52.
#36 Henryk Siemiradzki "Nero's Torches."
#37 Jan Matejka "Kusciusko at Raclawice" at 3:14.
ROLL #5:
#1 Sultan's Slave and
#2 Gladiator by Pius Wojtowych.
#3 Abduction of Sabine by Stanislas Levandowski.
#4 Slav Breaking Bonds at 3:26.
#5 ceiling glass at 3:52.
#6 St. John Kety's tomb in St. Anne's Church at 5:47.
#8 roses, like whole garden, glorious even if past prime at 9:21.
#9 Phallic figurines at 11:08.
#10 12 Century site of Cracow at 11:20.
#11 Closeup of Cracow model.
#12 Cracow from air-photo 11:25.
#13 rose at 11:45.
#16 dwarf elephants, 30,000BC, Greek isles and Sicily at 9:31!
#17 Venus of Willendorf at 9:53, and
#18 and #19 of eight figures on either side.
#20 32,000-year-old von Galgenberg statuette.
#21 jewel tree at 10:27.
#22 two-star quartz meter-long crystal from Madagascar at 10:38.
#23 asymmetric fish at 10:46.
#24 Salzburg at 2:45.
#25 and #26 Zurich at 5:17.
#27 Millenium dome at 6:17.
#28 London! at 6:18.
#29 and #30 Albany Center at 6:52.
#31-37 on way down to Newark.