Any comments or questions about this site, please contact Bob Zolnerzak at





1981 5 of 5

WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 13. Wake at 6:20 and jerk off, then great shower and down at 7:45 to find desk is LOCKED! Wander up river passage---all hotels are ACROSS the river, which I thought was NOWHERE last night---to "powerful" falls at 8:15, could be VERY pleasant in summer and to revisit---and even see that there are BUSSES to Station, Tirol, Avelungo funivia, and OTHER places marked on GOOD maps at stops! Decide to try walking to Tirolo Castle, but at 8:55 I'm cold and tired and though valley to north is SPECTACULAR and road good for walking (no traffic!) it's NOT about to get sunny, STAYS about freezing, and hitchhiking doesn't work and bus doesn't come! So I turn back to the elevated Tappeiner Weg, GREAT walk, and I DEFINITELY want to come back. LOVELY place and views from city and from surroundings. Back to hotel at 9:30, pay bill, piss, cash $350 for 423,400, GREAT rate, and then indulge 2200 for TWO apricot buns and GOOD caffe latte---almost like CHOCOLATE. Wander back to Duomo, in and out, and more Via Portici, and back through center of town and nice arcade and photo Grand Hotel Emma and get GREAT map outside station that I HOPE comes out with WORDS on slide! (And it DOES!) Onto train at 11:05 in one of eight first-class seats and surprised when we're FOUR as I finish this and we leave on 11:24 train at 11:27. Orario tutti is only 1200, I should have GOTTEN one at FIRST. Too late now. Off at 12:10, city HIGHLY overcast, really dreary. Piss, check 12:35 express to Rome (Trento at 13:15) on track 4, and get a beer and two (guess what?) salami sandwiches, all for 2500. At 12:20 across to track 4 and nothing's there. Sit and write. All the trees (major fields aside from grapes) are APPLE, having been trimmed down before for that "squashed" look they have, are now being trimmed again, tree by tree, by men (usually one in a field) on a ladder, strewing the ground underneath with topmost branches, leaving them looking very downcast indeed. But what a SIGHT these valleys would be in apple-blossom time! Women "in first class" chatted about Lerici and other "nice" places. Guess the Rome will be coming from Brennaro and will be crowded when I get on. WELL, they announce that the ROME will be 80 minutes late. At 12:23 the 12:20 to Trento is gone from track 1, of COURSE, since I could have USED it! There's a 12:54 to Bologna that gets in at 13:34, leaving me FIVE minutes for train to Castelfranco at 13:39! Oh, boy! It enters and since it goes ALMOST everywhere the ROME train will go, it's SWARMED. I get backward-going seat. Eat. Leave at 12:57---ONE minute to get train? VERY foggy out, not much to see, let alone the Brenta massif! Conductor says the Castelfranco train is for VENICE, on "primo tronco." Great. Grand valleys recede into total mist. Papers keep giving headlines and stories on how BAD the winter is in Europe, worst in England in 18 years, holding up trains, etc. Um. Acres of POLES needed for new vineyards. In at 13:36 by THEIR clock, and "tronco" turns out to be good old 1A! So conductor tells me to run under underpass (no, THROUGH!) and old man waves me on and I get ON at 13:40 and it LEAVES at 13:41, giving me time to LEAVE one car and get on OTHER car to be third in 16-seat first class. Done! At Roncogno the only inhabitants of the station were two WHITE turkey males, 6-7 females, and LOTS of chicks, some chickens and GEESE standing around on one leg with DUCKS. GREAT river chasm just BEFORE that, at 1:55. MUCH more snow---are we HIGHER? GREAT ice balconies in 4-5 layers of 6-7 foot icicles hanging from rock strata into river canyon. Signs HERE only in ITALIAN! Fabulous terrace-snow reflections in Lago Ischia! First class would be NICER if the WORKERS weren't permitted to play cards on one train or sit and speak in some strange guttural Germanic Italian on this one. Good castle on hill above Borgo, and guy behind with awful accent leaves. Others invade first class. Cute face in jeans leaves a station office. I think, "Would that HE sat across from me." He enters train; I wish harder; he enters car; I think, "It's all crowded, you'll want to sit HERE." He talks to girl in back (about his signora?) of me and I glance at him. He at me. He goes forward. I pull. He comes back and sits across from me and opens a notecase with xeroxed pages in ENGLISH! Our eyes meet. He writes. I write. NOW what? HUGE sheer cliffs at Grigno---like my emotions: sharp, jagged? How can people live on TALUS below such cliffs, knowing (do they?) that the talus FELL from the cliff ABOVE them? Scenes MUCH too widespread for photography. Passo Brocon GREAT valley north of Grigno? Seeing him finish correcting his paper in ENGLISH I say "Looks like a thesis" and Erio has studied at the University of Edinburgh, knows English better than Edgardo, and is charming about saying I should drive around his Trento-Adige area under his advice, particularly Val Gardena and Lagorai Mountains---and take the Belluno bus to Cortina! I won't like Travisio because it's rather flat, though with nice Yugoslav influences, and when he says Venice has terrible floods 1.8 meters above high level, I say "I'm going to Venice." We have LOVELY chat about Reagan and limited atomic war in Europe, how the main US export is war, and family roots. Into Venice at 5:25, PERFECTLY clear and I'm VERY happy. Into information booth after he phones his friend (no answer) and office (Judith talks too much) and gets me suggestion of Pensione Accademia. Maps and timetables. Walk long way to his office, he buys wine in local bistro for the three of us in return for PROMISE to come to NYC, and he goes to apartment (wishing I could stay with him but talking of his girlfriend) and lays down bags and takes me to GREAT Accademia for 19,500 (but no bath). Check schedules and "Bilitis and the Faun" is at Teatro Malibran at 8. Up to room 10 and spread stuff out (including Orario sheets Erio TORE from his book for me) and get down at 7 to say I'm GOING to Teatre. He points out vaporetti stop and I get on for 800 (seems much) and to theater for 20,000 seat in G18 (this is Turno A, others HALF as much). Out to a pizzeria for three sandwich halves and beer to stave off dinner pangs and back to PLAIN theater and FANCY audience for AWFUL decadent non-dancing (but Carla Fracci CAN be very funny, does MOVE very well even in soft slippers, and is VERY concentrated and serious) and reciting (Valentina Cortese looks SO funny reading lines with GLASSES). Juneo, or whoever, isn't nice of face but has nice legs. Jumps nice, but Bonnefoux has NO talent as a choreographer. No intermission, endless till 9:55. Then everything's closed but the Trattoria Malibran. I stand for a toast and wine, then a lox sandwich and more wine, and I'm joined by a 22-year-old computer programmer from New Jersey and two guys from Australia on 30-hour plane ride from Canberra to London via Singapore and train pass. LOTS of wine and talk and LOVELY evening and I STAGGER home after it appears vaporetti have stopped at 12:15. To closed Trattoria Madonna and MAGICALLY to Accademia bridge and to bed at 12:45, feeling FABULOUS. A classical GREAT evening, but just IMPOSSIBLE to describe and remember with the INTENSITY it carried for me.

THURSDAY, JANUARY 14. Wake at 7:20 and up and out at 7:40, figuring I've missed the recommended sunrise, but get to Giudecca overlook and sun is still DOWN, rising in a red ball at 7:55. Cold. Back to have breakfast, mandatory for 3500, of hot chocolate and rolls, and get to vaporetti for San Marco at 8:45, touring St. Mark's again, bright under morning sun, and mosaics AT TOP are good but Monreale had them ALL over. Marble patterns on walls and mosaics on floor are dynamite, though. Into "Titian to Greco" at Palazzo Ducale, for 2500 and bought 2000 ticket for PALAZZO, too, AFTER buying 180 slides for 14,000, 6 EACH! FIVE rolls of film! Exhibit is rather academic, not too sexy, and most of the El Greco's are NOT his usual style of brilliance! Out at 9:45 to Doges Palace's INCREDIBLE rooms and Tintorettos and Veroneses. Quickly through, out at 10:30, and climb Horlogio tower for GREAT uncut cocks on Moors and see and hear BOTH rotate and strike 11. Good shots! Down and back to check out of hotel and get to Ferrovia at 12:20 to find next train to Calalzo isn't till 3:10! Ask to get information timetable for REST of trip, INCLUDING busses to and from Cortina! Vaporetti back to Ca' Pesaro for one of the worst Museums of Modern Art ANYWHERE, even the two 1950 Calders are awful. Just junk! Oriental Museum closed for 13:30 at 13:28, despite heated argument. Vaporetti back and find St. Lucia open 8-12 and 16-18, and to Pizzeria Beau Brummel for a NICE big lunch, and good, but for 23,000 it SHOULD be! 2:50 to station and right front seat in three-car all-first-class train. Off at 3:10, not caught up yet, and north toward GREAT snow peaks rising through pink haze ahead (visible a bit MORE clear, though a bit MORE distant, than those from Milan). Really VERY flat until Corigliano at 4 pm, sun QUITE low but bright enough to cause everyone on LEFT to lower blinds. Train goes FAST, stops at FEW places, just LOVELY. VERY GENTLE hills north of Corigliano at 4:10, white peaks enticingly closer. Caught up and a week to go and LOTS of money left: 33,000 for six days AND $250 for CASH when I'm HOME. Clouds beginning to gather to south. Not a TRACE of snow on ground yet. Train emptying out, thank goodness. It was FULL getting into Venice last night. Sun has SET for most of Vittoria Veneto, right AT base of hills, at 4:15. Those little FLAPS I wondered about at bottom of windows keep CONDENSATION from forming. GREAT! Climb into a STEEP valley RIGHT after---and a long tunnel, too. Oh, for a dome-top car! At Novi at 4:30 there's traces of snow on the ground and traces of German in the signs: Zimmer. A two and a half minute tunnel ending in S. Croce del Lago (a NEAT place, seen for 10 seconds before NEXT tunnel) ends in TOTAL snow scene again, about four inches EVERYWHERE, mountain ramparts pink over east end of lake. COULD be EXTRAORDINARY reflections! Last tip loses pink light at 4:45, still an hour to Calalzo. Alpi-Polpet at 4:50. NICE-looking BOYS around. I still feel over-warm, stuffed, and sleepy after that big meal (and 6 hours' sleep last night?). Book explains that Dolomites are too STEEP to accumulate glaciers. Oh! That hour-long bus ride to Cortina is 30 km---20 mph! Reverses direction in Polpet. Train passes two cross-country skiers on road, going toward two BOOTS on road. Chalet architecture takes over from bare stone buildings that had replaced stuccoed stone. Valentina Cortese---Cortina Valentese---Cortina D'Ampezzo. At 5:05 in Longarone the snow peaks are WHITE as if MOONLIT. I breathe so hard so close to the window it fogs ANYWAY with flap. Big station, growing town. STUPENDOUS canyon scenery, rocks folded like under a dissecting microscope. Ospitale di Cadore at 5:20, snow still glowing white, sky still lightish blue---very faded blue denim in clefts, darker above. Lots of tunnels. Perarolo di Cadore at 5:30, still light (just) enough to see, but FABULOUS by day. Town below looks JUST like lit setup for a toy train under a children's Christmas tree. MUST sit on LEFT coming back! Town twinkling ahead at 5:40. HUGE dam. Ten-minute's climb, then DOWN to Calalzo. In at 5:44. Line of busses outside of station marked "Per Cortina," and they're to MANY places: Perarolo, Longarone, others, and ONE to Cortina. I take "death seat," then see that river will be on LEFT of road, so I move to fourth seat back on left, closest-to-front left. Do people KNOW, or just chance? Smell of gas on running bus. I feel silly writing so much---will I need chapstick, will I need sunglasses, how expensive will hotels be, will all three cable cars be working tomorrow? Only 68 pictures left, buy more film? 2000 to Cortina, leave at 6 and the whole road is a string of villages---most of road has street lights! VERY tired on way; early to bed. Into station, get return schedule just to be sure, and first hotel on road is Hotel Italia with room without bath for 20,000. It's wooden and rather loud, but he gives me a map and it looks pretty central and there turns out to be a shower in a bathroom, so I CAN bathe. Look at maps and out at 8 for GREAT snow sculptures (contest January 8-10) and look for couple menus and find Pizzeria el Franco (where I have to GET waiter to take my order with a "Prego!" twice). I have a good but small ham omelet, butter from a more accommodating waitress, and ask what a "Stivoletta" is and he says "beer" for 2000 I get a glass BOOT filled with local beer. Streets are slippery so I get back to room after quite a shivery CHILL. Hope I'm not coming down with something. Back to room at 9 to shower and doodle about room and get to bed about 10.

FRIDAY, JANUARY 15. Wake at 6:20 and doze till 7:15, when I get up and dressed and out to look at clear peaks before sunrise. Climb road to north and there's a sign for Mietres, so I follow up that road---walking in the middle of the street for non-icy surface---and get to Piscina at 7:55 for first sunlight on peaks and guy drives up who says lift opens at 8:30. Feet get VERY cold standing there looking at hills, but crowds of kids start arriving with skis and it starts a bit early and I'm UP at 8:30, borrowing a blanket, paying 4800, and skiers are coming down through woods already. Up to first landing and I'd have fallen on ice on exit if not for strong arm of helper. Top is a bit easier, more soft snow to get footing on. This top is still in trees, so there's no good shot except on my way back down, when some of the ascendees shout "Ciao" at me---Cortina, unlike Bolzano and Merano, is TOTALLY Italian, which I think is rather NICE. Down at 9:25 and decide to hunt for 12 Via dello Stadio, but get to Ice Stadium and wander PAST road, ask, then ask again of a handsome skier who speaks good English. Around stadium and past busload of clanking skiers and in for loaded 10 am ascent, every 20 minutes, but a still 11,000 and SOMETHING about an abbonamento (subscription) for 14,000 for other places that I can't locate so don't take, possibly stupidly. Really terrifying ascent past HUGE cliffs FAR above crags on very DISTANT towers and a shuddery stop and slow ascent to the cage and then long swings on the huge cable that are really chilling. Get to top to find stairs unshoveled of four feet of snow to VERY top, so take pictures around---light battery FROZEN and useless! Down to restaurant level at 11 and look around and eat, taking brief notes on page 135: Up Meitre at 8:30, down at 9:30, up Tofana at 10, to top at 10:30, 25 F, feels colder. Haze rising. Eat from 11:30-12, HUGE smoked pork and kraut and beer and good vegetable soup to which I add LOTS of tasty cheese. Clunking of skiers in enormous boots really funny to watch, but some NICE people ski! Down and skid way back to hotel at 12:45 to say I'm staying, photo ice sculptures and find the tourist office closed 12:30-3, so I'm up to Faloria at 1:45 to find belvedere CLOSED for a long time and this goes only to SECOND top for 7000. Up with lots of kids, direct second connection, and AGAIN up a SHEER face of crags dotted with goat tracks and tiny snow-slide marks. Great bright sun at top and I'm around to garbage dump to see that only LOWER Cristallo SKI lift is working---upper would be GREAT, VERY steep slope. Use binoculars and look at changing shadows---BEGINNING to be bored with CONSTANT splendor of Alps---good to keep MOVING. Back to sit on porch amid screaming kids for a bit, back to watch 4 pm shadows, and down at 4:30 at sunset for the village. Matthau-Jackson film is DUBBED, no news of ice competition of 15-16-17 except for 2:30 Sunday, so I'm back to room to take off shoes and socks and get under blankets, but legs still cold so I take off pants and get ALL under covers till 6:45, do lightwork till 7:45, when I'm up to dress, deciding to eat IN since the 5 C heat has melted lots of ice into water that will now FREEZE into slickness. Down to dining room and it's FUN. (Note on previous writing: That's "haze rising," but you'd think I was STONED.) How do you capture the feeling: the strange Italian father and Scotch mother, son like father, only beautiful; daughter like mother, only with a sense of style (except it's like Feiffer's "Family" (WHATEVER the name of the play was---"Grown Ups"). when the daughter tells a joke and the mother asks "Was that the end?"---the lovely waitress reading the menu to me in English, and the fumbling with a full tray behind 205's door when I pass, and when I hold the door open for her she smiles and says "Multo gentile." THEN the guy leaves 206 with tan leatherette pants, butterscotch "wooly paws" on feet, and a plaid shirt that he starts tucking in when he sees me. Totally unpredictable (as when the tables are mostly laid out with NUMBERS (but obviously the "family" is here on "pensione," because she says the pork in cream-onion sauce was on the menu BEFORE), but they give me a table set for three with NO number) and surprisingly English---the table of five Scotch in the corner. Wine makes me woozy, the fried mozzarella was more INTERESTING than TASTY with a round of paté surmounted with a carrot slice; the roast beef was passable, the potato tasted "off" and the cauliflower was a soggy disaster, not at all preparing me for the TRIUMPH of the "chocolate cake," a layer of chocolate cream between two white-cake layers, topped with shaved chocolate of a PERFECT sweet-semi-sweetness, dusted with powdered sugar. I leave 1000 under plate out of sheer exuberance, but the meal has to add at least 10,000 to my bill---and cheap at THAT price. Up drowsy with wine and write notes. Get to bed again about 9, to be hit with a nice fantasy: I actually did a session this evening on "City of Light" consciousness. The City of Light would be Cortina IF the waitress who thought I was "multo gentile" would knock on my 208 and offer herself to me and I'd request a boy and she'd furnish me one who'd like me and who I'd like. THAT would be the CITY OF LIGHT. Mustn't forget this morning's dream of seeing not a mountain but a set of roller coaster hills at the end of a valley and a female tour guide leading me onto a rubber boat much like the Roaring Rapids of Great Adventure, and we are swept onto a "phony river" leading to the roller coaster that had an artificial whirlpool in the center that came and went, rocking our raft back and forth and enabling other "participants" to dive into the water and float into the maelstrom or swim under the crests to avoid it. In a few more minutes hit another lump to write: "Everything I see is beautiful. I cup you in my arms: my left arm along your back, your head on my left shoulder; my right arm through your legs and up your spine, holding you as a curve of life in my arms. I kiss all that is beautiful and hope you will suffer my lips long enough for them to drink their fill. You have beauty and youth to offer, I only wisdom and age. Possibly we two can combine into truth. What else can I say?" Then turn to other thoughts: Buy 20 slide trays, look into Matta for MY idea of bodies with RED where the intensest feeling is---from Naples Royal Palace, of all places. That emptied me enough to fall asleep about 10.

SATURDAY, JANUARY 16. Wake at 6:20 to piss, still black out, then doze and write more notes: 7:15 am: Incredible how my mind THRONGS with ideas when I get close to returning to New York. First, it says to remember to note a dream fragment from this morning: Brooke Shields and whoever he is (falsely) in their movie of "Romeo and Juliet," shaking snow from their hair and kissing gently (as in the ad) and saying "If only we could be on an island alone together." Second, it remembers my smelling myself under the blanket, a combination of farts from having to shit and foot smell from forgetting to bring an extra pair of socks, and I think of Foot-Shit Pong, which sounds like the name of a Chinese dignitary. Third, it returns to writing, how I should try AGAIN to be published, and then to computers, thinking how computers could speed indexes AND writing (with special fears on how to maintain files for power failures, errors, and restarts), and should I be painted, and who to have sex with, and correspondence (Christmas cards) to catch up with, and my next trip (Virginia Beach and Atlanta and Florida in April? French vineyards with Paul in July? Driving Trento-Adige with JJ and Erio?), photography---making slides of best of Guatemala and Alaska, buying five new trays and five STORAGE trays of about 400, learning new camera; paying bills and seeing people and catching up with mail and papers and magazines, then doing LOTS of work to 1) fill current savings account to about $2000, 2) pay tax and fill IRA and Keogh, 3) pay for next trip, 4) pay for a computer, 5) pay for self-publishing 2-3 books. And AGAIN I didn't think to take a picture of Erio! MUST remember Edgardo and Marina and Eduardo and Sandra and Dennis and Geejo!---which I didn't! Then take a good shit and catch up to date by 8:15. Ready for the end of the trip: today Verona, Sunday and Monday Milan, Tuesday Zurich, Wednesday home! Down to breakfast, in DIFFERENT room (reminds me of my thought last night that travel is (or could be made into!) a game VERY much like Dungeons and Dragons: the maze changes every day, there are the terrible monsters Chiuso and Terremoto, there are incantations in foreign languages that no one understands, and can have dire consequences when you choose to say "Yes" or "NO,") with hot chocolate and NO record of room number. Out to German-speaking desk clerk who's relieved when I can pay later. To room and open shutters and write this. Brush teeth, shave, look with binox to Cristallo across the street, search through drawers: nothing else to do. Pack, piss, pay 52,500 bill (breakfast was INCLUDED yesterday, dinner WAS 10,000 and the wine 2500), and buy 2000 ticket to Calalzo at 9:30. It's a pain to be caught up---I write more. At least this trip I haven't been wishing it to be OVER, like last few. Nor do I particularly wish I had MORE time---just ANOTHER time for Rome and Florence and driving between and around and in Alps. No real flight-fears yet, though I can feel a bit of metabolism-quickening just writing that. Just hope I can find something to do in Milan on MONDAY. Writing more pages than I'd thought---saving "Pnin" for the Pnane. Number pages to 165. Cute kids on platform---all skiers have these marvelous THIGHS. Leave 9:55: perfect day. An ice sculpture HAS a spray of WATER coming from its top! HUGE one halfway to Calalzo. Bright sun, traffic, beautiful Mount Pelmo on way there. In at 10:50 and wait on platform till 11 and suddenly a two-car autowagon revs up on the TRUNK line. Board at 11:02, my choice of left front-going out, three first-classers. Leave at 11:09---hasn't really SNOWED here in a while. Sun makes a million sparkles in the snow. About a hundred KIDS get on at Longarone, and of COURSE the idiot with the computer that plays tunes sits across from me. Twenty minutes late into Polpit and kids EVERYWHERE. Belluno at 12:15 (scheduled 11:56) and kids get OUT with great shouts, but LOTS of people waiting to get ON. Belluno seems not REALLY so well-sited as Merano. So it was GOOD to go to Venice! So from here it's DIFFERENT territory. Leave 23 minutes late! ANOTHER huge crowd waits in Feltre, leave 22 minutes late. Some trees still retain morning's FROST at 1 pm. Snow and mountains pretty well gone by Pederobba at 1:20, 18 minutes late. Dead RABBITS impaled above rows on one farm. Hazy SNOW gives way to hazy GROUND. Montebelluno has no Monte, just another CROWD of people. Into Castelfranco 17 minutes late now, with my Verona train leaving 12 minutes after our scheduled arrival. Out of Camposampiero, last stop, 9 minutes late. Into Padua with FIVE minutes to spare and board train for Verona, on seat reserved AFTER Verona, seating only THREE across in GRAND armchairs. Still foggy past industry of Verona. Back to hotel, suitcase in room 66 with a DOUBLE bed, and I check Verona book to find that the Arena is open till 5:30. Out at 4:15 and walk there quickly, which is good since it's only open till 5 and they stop ticketing thirty minutes BEFORE. It's in mint condition, so it's hard to see it as 1700 hears OLD. Climb to top and take pictures, out quickly in fog to Via Mazzini, a crowded promenade with elegance and push and cruising (straight) all mixed in. To Piazza Signoria and see a sign for the lift to the tower. Dash in at 5, it closes at 5:30, and to the top to take VERY foggy pictures of a LOVELY town and climb lots of steps to the very top for more views. Down at 5:20, almost dark, and see other piazza and look for signs of opera, but nothing. Then see the sign for the Pinocchio exhibit and BACK along Via Mazzini to Gran Guardia for GREAT free show of books from various countries, painting and drawings from various times, and four TV shows, of which I see one before they close at 6:20. Back to square and find Cangrande Restaurant in one of the palaces in a domed painted room, and it's MARVELOUS. 28 MEN, of which seven are old regulars, two with glasses, others only 3 with glasses and I'm the ONLY one gray! Fabulous place! Only women are the sommeliera and the waitress. Great Penna alla Boscaiolo---straight large macaroni shaped like PEN tips at both ends, with "wood" mushrooms and good sauce. Good red wine, too, 1/4 liter WITH the 7000 meal, and I have another 1/4 for 500 with my decent liver with butter (grease) and sage, interesting taste; and GREAT mixed salad. Out at 8 feeling MARVELOUS, and am walking back Via Porta Nuova and decide to RETURN to old town, all pedestrian. One plaza TOTALLY undermined by Roman excavations, nice cordon permitting a view down. Foggier and foggier and north past bridges and churches and LOTS of castle-type homes. To marvelous façade of Duomo, and I must come BACK here. South along Via Cavour and more palaces, pedestrians, and wine-fog, LOVELY feeling of joy to BE there. Guess my way across the merging lanes of traffic after passing elegant couples going into the Castel Vecchio to some Circulo, quiet magical, and see the lit oblong of the Hotel Rossi sign! Up and bed about 9:30, enchanted totally with Verona, vowing to return.

SUNDAY, JANUARY 17. 4:20 am: bizarre and very detailed dream, ending with "Santa Nubé della Tubé: "I've been told to check TV for a strange classic set of cartoons about a little boy, and I'm switching channels (TV of "Pinocchio" last night at Gran Guardia?) and find a long closeup of a Bert Lahr-like face made-up like the Chinese Opera Monkey, cheeks puffing in and out, eyes alternately crossing and gotchwise; face darkened with grease paint. Camera draws back to show kid puffing at a dope-pot behind a Japanese emperor, trying to put him to sleep, puffing up the dark dope-smoke, but every so often getting a whiff himself and flicking a long red tongue in and out, humorously woozy. He blows harder and harder at the flames, oblivious that he's set the emperor afire. Emperor's back STARTED TOWARD him, but as flames spread they're between emperor's feet and his tube (robe) catches fire and he "wakes" and roars with anger and the boy topples backward down the stairs, followed quickly by the emperor. Scene shifts to the bottom of the stairs, where servants quickly see what's going on and rush to get coffins. First blackened body hits the floor with a thud and is popped into the first coffin and carried off (JUST like in a Pinocchio drawing), but the second body doesn't FALL. Fade to a very high altitude, years later, of a Japanese pavilion, pastoral in the spring, as an emperor leaves to paint in his garden, and the boy's voice floats up: "Today is beautiful, so I will paint in the garden." Scene draws BACK and this is all on an artist's PALLET, and the artist is the BOY, who's drawn a picture ON the pallet, containing a square, raised, colored red, and is drawing a colored shape part on, part off the square. The square gradually enlarges into (or the pallet changes shape into) the shape of a map of the U.S. and the "outer drawing changes into the raised area the shape and position of the state of Nevada: and he draws three lines along the lower side, saying one is the Tyrean River, one the Truckee River, the third one the (?) River, starting south of the Grand Canyon, here A." and he's talking in a high, breathless child's voice like in the Hubley's Academy Award winning cartoons that use the voices of their kids. Whew, it takes till 4:40 to WRITE. Then up about 6:40 and take a GOOD shower and down at 7:40 to find breakfast is NOT included in the 30,000 bill. Lug luggage and have a chocolate and brioche (same in Italian as French and English) and onto train. Leave at 8:19 to Milan. VERY foggy most of the way, but some patches of clear. When there's no kids screaming or women rasping or Germans choking I concentrate on the unpleasant loudness and gruffness of the voice of one of the two men in my compartment! In Brescia the car fills. So far, for view, this has been the WORST leg of the trip! Debate doing out WALKING from 10-12, until Edgardo returns. Seeing all the people reading papers makes me rather YEARN for the Sunday Times. Twelve minutes late out of Brescia. Check IBM files again---how many MONTHS (120?) did I ACTUALLY work for them: August 1959 to September 1968 minus three months for the USA and plus three months for the first summer equals 122 months?? Actually SNOW on ground, as well as frost on foliage. Into Milan at 10. Taxi for meter of 4500 and he says 5500 for "Festivi." Yeah. I give him 500 tip, too---stupid? Tell Marina of my trip in French, and Edgardo comes at 11:30 and talks on phone, and Geejo and Dennis come at 12 and I tell THEM about trip. Have a lunch of almost raw beef and a nice salad and amaro and Dennis drives me to La Scala and goes to box office (parking car RIGHT in front of door!) and finds they have box 11, first file, for 27,500. Good. Buy 8000 program and get on line at 1:35 for 1:45 opening of doors. Dash to box on destra, regardless map had it on LEFT, and get in JUST before another couple, who take two other front seats. Two OTHER couples arrive and we're 7! "Falstaff" at La Scala: First act from 2:30-3:10 doesn't tell me that I should revise my rather low opinion of the opera---and this staging by Giorgio Strehler (who has done 41 productions since 1946, including the Lohengrin) doesn't help at all: first scene much DARKER than the cover picture on the program in the Inn, the second lit only from the BACK so that the singers' faces aren't visible unless they're facing LEFT! Juan Pons as Falstaff doesn't "fill" the role, vocally, at least so far. I remember the Fenton of Luigi Alva MUCH better vocally than I've heard from Peter Kelen, but it's nice to SEE him jump into the hay wagon, do a somersault, and pick the cute Nanetta of Patricia Wise up. She actually TURNS, as the moon, on "La lune," which is nice. A table leg BREAKS at the start, and they have to get a new one and then have a LOT of trouble putting the table back UP for the same reason. None of the other parts stand out as yet, but the two women got tits. And the celebrated "nine voice ensemble" is brief and completely muddled. Second act (3:30-4:25) somewhat better, at least in the comic vein, and Giogio Zancanaro as Ford gets in some good notes in his duet with Falstaff. Audience liked it even better: three full curtain calls worth. First couple abandoned their seats to the other two women, who sat up MUCH closer. They may talk about me behind my back, but I haven't been verbally stabbed yet, to my knowledge. Third set (Act II, Scene 2) at least lit from the front, with a whole SUNKEN COURT that's quite a feat---but even with water thrown up (all over Nannetta), the "splash" of Falstaff isn't convincing. Lorin Maazel has changed into an OLD man (looks like a saggy Clive Barnes) FAST. Here I think a bag of junk that was just supposed to RATTLE when fallen BROKE and littered the stage with junk. No great shakes of music, that I can determine, except for a few pretty bars here and there. Odd, with age, how one is prepared to LOVE far fewer opera performances, but a far LARGER number of PEOPLE, if given the opportunity. First part of act three only from 4:33-5:10, and CURTAIN refused to close by about seven feet for ten seconds or so. ONLY when Alice sang about all the "ellis and ettis" of the fairy ring did the MUSIC sing, but Verdi put very LITTLE music to stop Boito's marvelous WORDS (look at them in libretto!) in the "drunk black cricket" song. Black cricket/hunter/chicken cacciatore nice connections. This final scene better be DYNAMITE! Only 3-4 seats empty in whole theater---and did I mention before that the CURTAIN TASSELS are BRASS and TINKLE? How BETTER the seating at San Carlo seemed than SEVEN in a La Scala box! And people ACTUALLY HANGING from top bars in second rows of 5th and 6th balconies. Overall impression is one of CHEAPNESS---almost NO forest for last scene and fairies are tawdry. Out at 5:45 and get lost AGAIN in streets, back at 6:30 to find Sandra as babysitter. We're out to dinner with Geejo and Dennis and Valeria and a guy I think is her BOYFRIEND (too cute for HER) and he was Geejo's LOVER (too cute for HIM, too!) and English Dennis, somewhat nicer this time, with BIG arms as he takes off his sweater. Drink four bottles of wine for eight of us, GREAT varied appetizers and desserts, and I have quail, tiny and touch, with polenta. Whole bill is 115,000 and I pay 50,000 for me and Edgardo and Marina. Back about 11, make up bed, and sleep quickly.

MONDAY, JANUARY 18. Wake at 7 and up at 8:20, everyone still home. Have an egg and four slices of toast and coffee and at 9:40 Lydia tries calling Luca (Geejo said he wanted to see me, and that GEEJO would call in PM), who'll return "between 2 and 3," unconsciously echoing "Falstaff" of yesterday! I'm out to places recommended by Dennis: Sant'Eustorgio, old, and a GREAT man turns on lights for me (for 1000) and I see all the chapels and bodies. Then up to San Lorenzo for mosaics from 300 AD and underpinnings and columns outside, then to Ambrosian at 11:30 for a peek at the reading room and a GREAT gallery, F from p. 155: Ambrosian: glove of Napoleon from Waterloo; hair (blond) of Lucrezia Borgia; Picture by Jan Bruegel dei Velluti, 1568-1625, Vaso di Fiori, Donazione card: Federico 1618! Buy books and go back to see the Breughels and the cartoon for "The School of Venice." Out at 12:30 and have nice lunch with two glasses of wine, and back to Lydia at 2:10 and Luca will call ME. I read National Geographics; Luca says come to his place at 6, and men come to talk to Marina about sanding terracotta floors. I take care of Eduardo a bit, cute, and Edgardo and I go shopping for groceries and wine 5:30-6 and then to Il Sagiatori for Luca's grand office (he looks like Pavarotti) and he gives me Arte di Colore. We talk and have Campari to 6:45, when he must get home to take train to Berlin at 7:30. He's coming to NYC for two weeks the end of May or "when he came last year." Geejo said "Come to dinner at 9," and at 7 I go there and he's not home yet. Buy 20,000 champagne and wander to Campo Romana, only warehouses, and tempted by "Raiders of the Lost Ark" but it doesn't start till 8. Back at 8 (after mixing with Gaeta in 35, not Gaita in 37) and Geejo JUST arrives. I read H.P.Lovecraft in Heavy Metal, and he used to live at 139 Clinton St. Geejo puts on music, Dennis arrives and I figure he has a HARELIP under his mustache. We eat rice and mushrooms, Valeria arrives, they play opera, have eggs under cabbage, wine and hot potatoes and at last my champagne at 11:30. I say I must leave, very pleased, and home at 12. Brush teeth and Edgardo leaves not saying phone will ring at 6:45. Tired to bed at 12:30.

TUESDAY, JANUARY 19. Wake at 4:30, doze, up at 6:35 and phone rings at 6:40. Pack and wash and wake Edgardo at 7:05, regretting STILL no pictures, last night or of THEM! Leave after awful coffee at 7:25, he drives fast, to station at 7:45 and NICE train (7:55) leaves 8:05. Conductor remarks it's the last day of my pass. VERY foggy out of Milan and snow piles up IMMEDIATELY alongside. Como and Lugano almost invisible, but after 9 am in Chiasso the snow peaks appear CLEAR above lower fog. My partner in car had to take train rather than FLY, but it NOW seems Zurich may be clear. Can't figure WHY ticket to Zurich from Chiasso is 54F or 41,000L, when I only remember paying $20 from Zurich to MILAN, and remember too late to exchange ticket (he says snobbily) from FIRST class to SECOND class! So I pay $20 extra for nice CAR. Spectacular "fog below, clear above" scene, and valley coming north to Bellinzona at 10. Then it's spectacularly clear for an hour but always it's IMPOSSIBLE to take pictures: either the view's too big, or we STOP at NO PLACE, or the train's moving too FAST to take an "open shutter" picture in FOG, or the tracks are between high trees, or utility poles cut across, or tunnels loom, or fog removes view, or it's too foggy to SEE, or the right COMBINATION never arises, or it's right into the SUN! Lots of signs to St. Gottard this time, even one to the actual village and a couple for the pass. Go through the tunnel 11:057-11:165, just 9 minutes. Fat fellow announces "Speiswagon" but though I'm hungry I don't care for HIM---AND I don't want to spend $20 for BREAKFAST and give MORE money to Swiss rail. Cart comes with drinks and coffee, but no FOOD. Then at 11:30 we descend into that white fog again, and the tracery of frost over EACH limb and twig, particularly WILLOWS, is extraordinarily beautiful, but AGAIN it's frustratingly impossible to take FROST-trees against SUN PEAKS. Catch up with this in various tunnels, VERY hungry by 12, when I finish to date, amazed because the formerly clear and beautiful shots available across the lake that Zurich is on are gone---total fog when it's not total tunnel. Again, one has to RETURN to Fluellen and Airolo and Erstein to get the PERFECT pictures of this marvelous "dawn-at-noontime frost-in-fog-against-sunlit peaks" drama. Switch from side to side, frontwards and backwards, but at last completely give up the idea of photos. It's all in the SEEING, anyway, and I DO hope to be BACK. Oh, yes, at 8 am this morning I decided to count the number of HOURS left: 37, exactly, just as many DAYS as the trip was! AND men were WORKING on the new highway through the mountains, too---VERY spectacular---but LITTLE snow in the PASS, in contrast to the LOVELY fall as I came SOUTH. Ground snow here rather thin and somewhat DUSTY. No knowing WHAT it'll be in Zurich NOW. Zurich 59 km by road at noon. Frost and fog both still VERY thick. Hey, maybe frost-photos STILL possible in ZURICH! Black birds in totally white branches in Arth-Goldau at 12:05. Some MARVELOUS old houses in villages. Interesting that lakes aren't frozen at all except for tiny disks around twigs from shore-trees entering water. As we move, frost waves and wanes, much like local melt-patterns in fields: depends on water, air, movement of both? In at 12:45, look at hotel list a LONG time and it's at LEAST 60F = $30 ANYWHERE, and I finally settle on Simplon, close for 49F, and look at maps, phone for plane confirmation, and get out to eat in Rheinfeld Bierhalle for 11.80, GOOD veal almost in a BÉARNAISE sauce with LOTS of fries and good soup and salad and fennel and carrots. Then to Kunsthaus, taken OVER by the awful G's: Fritz Glarner, 1899-1972, everything given by his wife's will, who died in 1979, and floor B has Max Gluber, 1898-1973, maybe one better than failed-Mondrian Glarner, but failed-Monet Gluber at least STARTED earlier and LASTED longer. In at 3:20 after seeing library entrance, going to corner, being told THERE "library," to library and be told AROUND, and AROUND is the OFFICE, so I try $3 and get IN for 2F. JAN Brueghel, the elder, 1568-1625. Younger 1601-1678. Good naked Marysus strung up and very interesting Holdins and Fusslis, but when I'm finished at 5:30 (some GREAT van Goghs!) I'm so exhausted that everything to buy isn't what I want or is too expensive. Oh, well, I'll probably be back anyway. Out to find exchange rate at 1.8, so a factor of 5.5, not 7.5, is more reasonable, cutting my 49F room from $37 to $27! Not bad, but there's no SHOWER. Wander dark slippery streets (getting lost) to Kongresshalle for LAST 10F ticket for tonight's Mahler's 9th, right above orchestra. Out at 5:45 and to hotel, getting lost AGAIN, at 6:20, impressed by the fact that the WHOLE CITY seems like Fifth Avenue: VERY expensive, elegant, and well decorated. Rest for an hour, having found that it costs 3F to take a BATH. Out at 7:30 and go by more direct Banhofstrasse and get there at 7:50, finding you MUST check your coat for 1F! Large, rather plain place, like Amsterdam's Concertgebouw. See woman SEATED INSIDE HALL (lots of unsold seats OUT in BACK LOBBY) and sit next to her, and we have nice chat about her week in New York (Isaac Stern in Carnegie Hall) when visiting her brother in Washington. Haitink is very serious and the symphony is VERY sour and bitter and discordant, never really RESOLVING. Sour old man. First movement controlled 8:20-8:45, second 8:47-9:05, third 9:06-9:20, and last 9:23-9:45, and about seven minutes of VERY enthusiastic applause. Get coat fast and find all the restaurants on THIS side of the river CLOSED, so across and have good Pizza Padrone for 9.80 and two beers for 3.40, nicely full and liked looking at waiter's full Italian arms. Back to hotel at 11:10 and bed 11:20.

WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 20. Wake at 4:30 (surprisingly common) and up at 6:40 to bowl-wash till 7:20, feeling MUCH better. Pack and breakfast 8:40-8:55, very pleasant breakfast room, and out to follow tourist road (after buying ticket to airport) to Grossmunster, very plain, but open only at 10! Watch ducks dive for fish in river, swimming to keep up with current, being dive-bombed by gulls. VERY efficient how water rolls off a duck's back. Marienkirke closed till 10, too, plain, and I wander some BACK (living) streets to get to (I thought) closed Landesmuseum, then see a school group go in and find they DO open at 10. Get 36F for $20 and back to hotel at 9:40 to phone Capital and find takeoff delayed from 12:20 to 12:40, so it's "there at 11:10," so I CAN see museum. He opens rope for me at 9:56, nice, and the place is DYNAMITE: centered around magnificent baronial hall with armor, helmets, and intricate dagger-scabbards are loads of goodies: tin-soldier dioramas of famous battles, stone carving from prehistoric times, models of Roman baths and villas from 100-300 AD, grave finds from Europe, great old money and medals, whole rooms of exquisite wood paneling from 1700 and 1800, a floor of native and richer costumes, a neat tower of toys, and a priest's wing with an extraordinary jeweled monstrance that I get a slide of, along with a sexy little guy they have rotating. Back to hotel at 11 to pack and pay 50.50 bill, getting to terminal at 11:16, just missing 11:12 airport train. 11:35 train gets in at 11:51, use dolly to check-in place, getting seat 22E since they have NO right windows left. Spend 2.7 of last 3F on chocolate, now ENTIRELY back to US money. Board at 12:30 to find 22F empty---again! Catch up on writing, talk to guy behind me about his six months' living in Anchorage, and get sunglasses from coat when DISK of SUN can be seen through tiny cold snow flurries. They pass out a nice little bag of Capitol-labeled goodies (forgot: NO frost on trees IN Zurich, but WERE at 11:45 in SUBURBS toward airport---still pretty thick in fog, though planes are leaving). Announce an 8-hour 20-minute flight, 500 minutes! Finish this at 1:12 (7:12 am NYC time). Should be in by 4 pm, great! Lit cab ride home! AND though row 22 IS over the wing, 21 and 23 are extra-wide for the two emergency exits, so we have NORMAL space and NORMAL window position! Off at 1:20, and I REALLY TRY to spear some of the "Oh, God, please, God" fears. HIGH Alps strung all along LEFT, but into SUN. Clouds cover most except bit of north of England and south of Ireland. Lunch OK 11:30-12 (3 hours difference). Then solid clouds. Read lots, see some of Newfoundland and Cape Cod, all of Long Island, and land at 3:41. Lots of slush, 33 F. Tired, slightly. Off almost last into a gimmicky tunnel-become-bus that lowers, moves, rises, and THEN requires you walk down two flights of stairs and two blocks distance, but bag is WAITING for me, WITH belt around it! Into customs line (didn't even HAVE to get passport stamped or checked!) at 4:10, and back to "Pnin." ALMOST finish but don't have to open anything and pass at 4:30, get cab with GOOD driver and taking North Conduit gets me here at 5:05 for $15.90 and $2.60 tip = $18.50. Upstairs and ALL IS WELL!


TUE, DEC. 15: Capitol flight delayed takeoff from 8 to 10:45 pm. Winter storm.

WED, DEC. 16: Good food, cloudy flight, land in snow-swept Zurich at noon. City so gray under snow that I board train for Milan, passing through the St. Gotthard tunnel amid a spectacular snowfall for real winter glory! Edgardo and Marina's apartment in Milan is grand and modernistic, and I even get my own room. Marina prepared a grand dinner for me and friends.

THU, DEC. 17: Food tastes SO good: a pear and cauliflower last night a thrill to taste. Edgardo takes me walking to La Scala for tickets, saying I have to return to stand on line for tickets for the highly touted production of "Lohengrin." Poldi Pezzoli Museum grand and warm after an icy clamber atop the roof of the pure white Duomo, looking over the entire city to the Alps in the north. Have a drink while people-watching in the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele, then Edgardo drives Sandra and me to an English church for Christmas carols, after which Geejo and Dennis join us for dinner.

FRI, DEC. 18: Four box seats bought for the "Lohengrin" on Sunday! "Only" $40 each! Fill up on Virgins and Christs at the Brera Gallery, great fish lunch, and it SNOWS as I tour the enormous brick Sforza Castle galleries. Edgardo recommended the Civil Picture Gallery particularly, and looking at its brilliantly restored and cleaned collection of paintings, I could understand his recommendation. Quick pizza before "Swan Lake" at La Scala.

SAT, DEC. 19: Quiet day of planning, looking over the farmers' market in the street below our windows, and phoning Paris and Naples to discuss the rest of my trip. Avant-garde show and magic circus at Piccolo Scala at night.

SUN, DEC. 20: Borrow Edgardo's car for the Monastery of Pavia, still in use and magnificent. Quick steak-and-fennel lunch and we get to "Lohengrin" for splendid production from 2:30-7---we get our money's worth! Sandra drives me to the apartment of Geejo and Dennis, where they feed me and entertain me by singing (well, too!) the Sutherland-Horne soprano repertory. All Italians are pazzo (crazy), and some are pazzo-er than others!

MON, DEC. 21: Train to Naples, with confusions and gray skies, and along the ancient Via Tribunale for sights (and smells) of Naples on the way to Piazza Dante and good seafood (and cheap) at the Dante and Beatrice.

TUE, DEC. 22: More confusion, more misleading signs, more people trying to help who mix things up more! Palermo train leaves late, so I see none of the Sicilian countryside since we ferry across the Straits of Messina at dusk. Get rooked by the taxi to Hotel Sole---restaurants closed by 10 pm!

WED, DEC. 23: Train to Erice via Trapani, conductor helpful. Great views through clouds, but it's cold and windy, not the best time of year for Sicily, although the food is still cheap and wine cheaper still.

THU, DEC. 24: Wander Palermo streets, lots of churches and parks, and Jean-Jacques arrives in time for us to see Carla Fracci in a Stravinsky program at the Politeama Garibaldi (which replaces the Teatro Massimo, currently under reconstruction). Dinner at the very good Nuovo Castelnuovo Restaurant.

FRI, DEC. 25: Since everything in Palermo's closed on Christmas, we drive south to Segesta, enjoying the temple and amphitheater, but can't find ANY place open to eat, finally having two toasted ham-and-cheese sandwiches at 3 pm---but they were delicious! To Sciacca for a hotel and pizza dinner!

SAT, DEC. 26: Selinunte temples, with the guide personally conducting our tour through the ruins, a hit of the trip. Bright sun, chilly wind, coats in order. Lost on road through Menfi for Agrigento, expensive lunch in an empty Jolly Hotel, and the ruins seem like a stage set we can't enter after we'd enjoyed "playing" in the ruins of Selinunte. Akrobello Hotel heatless!

SUN. DEC. 27: Museum filled with fantastically beautiful pieces, and we get lost five times on confused roads with confusing signs before ending up a one of the best restaurants in Italy: the Centrale in Enna, imaginatively seasoned roast fresh mushrooms starting a great meal. Through Piazza Armerina for the 3rd century mosaics in Casale, another extraordinary site and sight. Lost, lost, lost into Ragusa, barely finding a place to EAT.

MON, DEC. 28: Go shower-less in heatless San Giovanni Hotel; breakfast at the Ragusa Cathedral Coffee Shop; drive through Ibla and Modica and Noto for "new" cities built after Etna eruptions in the 1600s. Warm Hotel Jolly in Siracusa, but everything's closed on Monday. See Fountain of Arethusa and lots of stray cats managing to live on inaccessible beaches. Cathedral incorporates columns from a Greek temple. Good rustic restaurant Jonio.

TUE, DEC. 29: Archeological Museum closed 9-11 for "assembly" of striking workers. To Museo Bellomo, Greek theater, and Ear (cave) of Dionysus; return to superb Archeological Museum and good lunch at Minerva Restaurant. Private tour through Teatro Bellini in Catania, wander busy town, and find La Perla Ionica resort for a room, but have to return to Acireale to eat.

WED, DEC. 30: Modern resort rooms extraordinarily poorly designed; get lost four times trying to find the road up Mt. Etna, and when we get to the funicular, it's closed because of high winds. Down bumpy roads to Giarre and up coast to Taormina, a paradise of houses and restaurants and parks perched on three successively higher terraces above the sea. Luxurious lunch at Il Maniero at the topmost peak of Castelmolo and enjoy view of entire coast. Greek theater closed an hour before posted closing time. North to Messina, south to La Perla to pick up forgotten passports, north to Messina for a dreadful dinner with slovenly waiters at the Hotel Jolly.

THU, DEC. 31: Antonella de Messina exhibit blocks out regular museum goodies: drive to Milazzo for lunch and a launch to Vulcano, where I puff up the slopes to get good whiffs of sulfur vents at the top and enjoy the view. Return through a pink-orange-yellow sunset to Palermo for quiet New Year's Eve.

FRI, JAN. 1: Monreale Cathedral interior totally encrusted with brilliant golden mosaics; back to Palermo for the best meal yet: lunch at Charleston, totally deluxe meal for less than $40 for two. For contrast, see the mummies in the Capuchin Cemetery, then get lost trying to find the top of Monte Pelligrino for a cold view over Palermo Harbor. Lousy dinner at Bellini.

SAT, JAN. 2: Jean-Jacques leaves early and I tour the Palazzo Normani, St. John the Hermit, the gardens of the Villa D'Aumale, the Archeological and National Museums, and various parks. Take entire afternoon and evening to get by train and ferry to Reggio di Calabria; beer and sandwiches for dinner.

SUN. JAN. 3: The Bronze Warriors of Riace, on exhibit after 2000 years under the sea and eight years being restored, are astoundingly beautiful: I buy books and slides and posters of them. Train to Naples through a tan-and-purple sunset, and the Palace Hotel restaurant is surprisingly good.

MON, JAN. 4: Tourist office confuses openings of museums for me, so I have a $7 taxi ride from Capodimonte to St. Martino. Great lunch overlooking Bay of Naples at Belvedere Restaurant---most restaurants only serve WHOLE bottles of wine for $2-3! Many days take on a GREAT glow after lunch! By city bus to the zoo and to Edenlandia, an amusement park with a ride NEW to me called the Alpenblitz, a small ride with big roller-coaster sensations. Enormous difficulties getting back to the hotel with the bus system. Frustrations!

TUE, JAN. 5: Holler at bank clerk who refuses to exchange money. He does it. I'm becoming a Neapolitan! Tour churches: San Lorenzo Maggiore, Santa Maria in Purgatorio, and others, all with very elaborate (some life size) manger scenes called Presepes, an art form in Naples. Archeological Museum one of the best, even with many rooms closed after last year's earthquake. Return to Capodimonte Museum, worth the effort, but none of these have guidebooks! More bus troubles. Wander streets sightseeing and have a pizza dinner.

WED, JAN. 6: More churches: San Domenico Maggiore (containing the tomb of the first Bishop of New York!), Gesu Nova, Santa Chiara (with a ceramic-walled cloister), and others. Royal Palace mostly closed; take funicular to Villa Floridiana; end in the aquarium and walk back to the hotel through a bustling Piazza Mercato (market) alive with shellfish. Omelet for dinner at Mimi's.

THU, JAN. 7: Cloud cover breaks enough to encourage me to take the Circumvesuviana train to Pompeii, taking all day even though half of it is closed after the earthquake. (I sneak into some of the closed areas anyway.) The SIZE of the area is most impressive, but it's hard to get an idea of interiors when most of them are locked---I managed to find keys to only two of them. The Villa of Mysteries is somewhat overrated except for the TOPIC of the frescos. Overcharged for a good lunch at 3:30; stayed, exhausted, in hotel.

FRI, JAN. 8: Take a chance with the weather and get the hydrofoil to Capri, and the island wins me over: few autos allowed, marvelous footpaths along precipitous cliffs looking over strong surf (too strong to allow boats into the Blue Grotto), and hardly any tourists. Bus to Anacapri, with more cars, and since the funicular's under repair I climb Monte Solaro on foot. Great view, NO one on top but a hungry cat. Back in time for "Giselle" at San Carlo.

SAT, JAN. 9: Ischia today, more "rustic" than Capri, but not as spectacular. The "Presepe Vivente" (living manger) didn't seem to be taking place. Tour the island by public bus, some great views and colorful people, but COLD. Elegant dinner at Harry's (for $22, most expensive in Italy, it better be) and then a DYNAMITE production of "Cenerentola" at San Carlo, better than Scala!

SUN, JAN. 10: Complicated train itinerary north, horrendously expensive lunch for mediocre food (and, as usual, I'm not carrying enough cash for the weekend) on the train. Read lots of Nabokov in fog. Expensive Verona hotel.

MON, JAN. 11: Snowing! Manager says it NEVER snows in Verona. I check heavy (with books) suitcase with hotel and travel north to Brenner Pass, where there's five feet of snow---but in the Alps, where it belongs! Impressive route through quaint old snow-covered villages, just like in picture books. One hour of Bolzano seems to about do it. Complicated connections take me to Brunico, in the middle of the Dolomites and ski season and German culture. Have great trouble finding a hotel, but German food tasty for a change.

TUE, JAN. 12: Beautiful mountain-enclosed town shows itself at dawn as I ride toward San Candido, the end of the train line; Dolomite spires peeping under clouds and fog; train filled with clunking skiers. Back through Bolzano, north to Merano, and west to spectacular Merano Malls, returning to charming Merano for the evening, planning more train rides and enjoying Germanic air.

WED, JAN. 13: Walk hills and promenades of perfectly lovely town. Must come back here in summer sometime: marvelous setting, a great place to relax. Apple trees everywhere; in blossom time it would look like Eden! Board train through Castelfranco and precipitous mountains, and strike up conversation with Erio Ziglio, who lives here and studies in Scotland, which explains the English book he was reading that led me to talk to him. He says the tides are higher than ever in Venice, so I end up continuing south with him to Venice. He makes the end of my trip by saying there are busses to Cortina d'Ampezzo (where I'd wanted to go, but the train didn't connect) from Calalzo, where I was planning to go. Great! Tides in Venice have receded, but he gets me a room in the Pension Accademia, lovely place, and I get a ticket at the Teatro Malibran for Carla Fracci in "Bilitis and the Fawn," which is awful, but the theater and people met were very pleasant.

THU, JAN. 14: Sunrise over Venice! To St. Marks and the Doges' Palace for an exhibit of paintings, more museum sightseeing (one of the worst Museums of Modern Art ANYWHERE!), and a good meal before the train leaves for Calalzo. Stupendous mountain scenery into Cortina; find a hotel and feel pleased with trip.

FRI, JAN. 15: Dawn is breathtaking; I wander rural roads and take a ski lift up one hillside, then down and a gondola to 3000 meters to the top of Tofana, with a mind-boggling view of range after range of mountains. Great mountaintop lunch and down to the valley and up to the Faloria ski resort, full of people enjoying the bright sunlight for a change. "Family" dinner in hotel.

SAT, JAN. 16: Ice sculptures, changing mountain panoramas, and skiers everywhere make the bus and train back to Verona exciting. Verona, sadly, is very foggy, but that doesn't spoil the real beauty of the old central town. Great exhibit on "Pinocchio" through the decades around the world, and the Cangrande Restaurant near Verona's famous piazzas is a great bargain with delicious food. Wander medieval streets in a delirium of joy in the fog.

SUN, JAN. 17: Return to Milan through total fog, in time for lunch at Edgardo's and for Dennis to drive me to La Scala for my ticket to "Falstaff" for that afternoon. Get lost for about the fiftieth time on confusing Milan streets. Dinner out with Geejo and Dennis and Valeria and various friends, wonderful.

MON, JAN. 18: More churches: Sant'Eustorgio, San Lorenzo; and a great Ambrosian picture gallery started in 1618! Visit Luca in his office at 11 Saggiatore (he gives me a huge book to add to my already-weighty luggage), and end with dinner at Dennis and Geejo's with Valeria and more music and singing and wine.

TUE, JAN. 19: Edgardo drives me to the train for Zurich on the last day of my Railpass, and the fog clears as we move into Switzerland, but then about noon the fog returns and every tree, branch and twig, is enrimed with a crystal coat of frost that's astoundingly beautiful. Zurich is fun to wander around in, the Kunsthaus exhaustingly full of some dreadful paintings. More good simple German food, ending up at Mahler's 9th at the Kongresshalle.

WED, JAN. 20: The incredibly rich Landesmuseum climaxes my tour in Zurich, and I board the plane that's only twenty minutes late this time, but for the second time I managed by luck to get a window seat while being about the last one to check in. The whole range of the Alps was glaring in the midday sun, sadly impossible to photograph but impressive to see. Lots of Canada and the United States visible, and even though the flight was eight hours and a half, thanks to the time changes I even got back to my apartment in the daylight. And I actually had $250 in traveler's checks left over!

Two Christmas letters, summarizing 1981, follow:


Dear Friend,

Since it's now the middle of February, I need all the help I can get in catching up with belated holiday greetings---and a xerox machine helps a lot! So for those who haven't heard from me since I go back from Russia and China in September, here's the rest of 1981!

It took until the middle of October just to catch up, and then I spent lots of time showing 300 of my 800 slides from the trip to friends---if you haven't seen them, they're one good reason to plan a trip to NYC! There were some interruptions, like nine hours for "Nicholas Nickleby" and my yearly trip to Great Adventure Amusement Park, during which I initiated my knowledge of my 1973 Volvo (well, it's half mine) by running out of gas! Oh, and I had to do a few indexes so I could pay all the bills that piled up after the last trip---and then pay all the bills in advance before the NEXT trip---flew to Italy on December 15.

Actually, the cheapie Capitol Airlines flight was to Zurich, where the weather was so awful I just caught a train down to Milan---and the trip through the Gotthard Pass in a snowstorm was a winter's spectacle! Stayed with friends in Milan for a week, managing to see a "Swan Lake" and a "Lohengrin" at La Scala, as well as a large number of fabulous museums. Inaugurated my 30-day first-class Italian Railpass with an overnight stop in Naples and a continuation the next day to Palermo, on Sicily, where the next day a friend from Paris joined me with a rented car and we spent ten days circling Sicily: Segesta, Selinunte, and Agrigento with their Greek temples, amphitheaters, and ruins; Sciacca, Enna, Ragusa, and Noto for real southern Italian temperament (NO signs were ever QUITE clear and lots of restaurants and hotels close over the holiday season); Taormina for an unbelievably beautiful setting and luxury; and Messina, Catania, and Milazzo for good food and striking views of Mount Etna, which we couldn't ascend because the winds were too strong for the funicular to operate. I did manage to climb to the volcanic summit of Vulcano, which we reached by boat from Milazzo. Then I started off on my own for a day in Reggio di Calabria to see two magnificent bronze warriors newly displayed after 2000 years underwater and eight years of reconstruction work, and a week in Naples seeing museums, Capri, Ischia, Pompeii, and a "Giselle" and a "Cenerentola" in the San Carlo Opera House, even more beautiful than La Scala. Then, to exercise my Railpass, I traveled north to Verona, and then bounced through the Alps and Dolomites to such resorts as Brennero, Bolzano, Merano (so beautiful I firmly intend to return), Brunico, Fortezza, Calalzo, Castelfranco, and the crowning glory of Cortina d'Ampezzo in full ski-snow, spending two days there riding up one cable car to 3000 meters after another for extraordinary winter glory. There was a day in Venice in there, too, and then I returned to Milan for a few more days with a few more friends before leaving by plane via Zurich on January 20.

My EXCUSE for not sending cards from Italy is that the mail system is SO bad there that I had no guarantee my cards would even by mailed. And then when I got back there was so much to catch up with that I haven't had time to write to anyone until now. AND my bankbook is so low I just HAVE to put in hours of work before what I hope is my NEXT trip: two weeks by car March 23 to April 5 visiting an aunt and uncle in Virginia Beach, a family of friends and ANOTHER aunt and uncle in Atlanta, and my sister and her husband and their new baby (I'm an uncle!) in Satellite Beach, Florida.


Dear Friend,

Since it's now the middle of February, I need all the help I can get in catching up with belated holiday greetings---and a xerox machine helps a lot! So for those who haven't heard from me in over a year, here's 1981!

Finished 30 lovely days in Mexico on January 8, and it took me until the end of the month to catch up on correspondence (for those who didn't get Christmas greetings LAST year from Mexico someplace) and odds and ends. Then work started with the indexing of a series of six Elementary English books for Harper and Row, giving me just about enough money to pay my taxes by the middle of April and start a Keogh Account and pay for my next trip! Actually, what paid for the next trip was ONE book from Springer-Verlag, a 2250-page book on Prokaryotes that paid $7800 for the subject index, and I got a part of the $15,000 they paid for the 25,000-line author index that about six of us ended up completing during a VERY hectic week at the end of June.

On July 6 I flew Laker Airlines (how glad I am that I don't have a now-worthless ticket on that airline!) to London for a week in Scotland by train, covering Edinburgh, Inverness, Findhorn, Skye, Mull, Iona, and Glasgow, and back to London for the July 14th departure of the Golden Arrow Express via Folkstone and Calais to Paris, where an old friend took me to dinner and then to the Bastille Day fireworks over Trocadero. Back on the train for a day in East Berlin and a day in West Berlin, followed by a day in Warsaw (cut short because there was little food and great tension even then), and then continuing on for four days in Moscow during a heat spell of 98 F which included opera and ballet in the evenings. My group and I boarded the Trans-Siberian Express on July 23 and spent four days crossing summery southern Siberia to Lake Baikal and Irkutsk, enjoying caviar, champagne, brilliant sunsets about 11 pm and clear sunrises about 4 am. The train then passed through places I hadn't even heard of, like Shyradgoska, Vydrino, and Ulan-Ude, to get to a place I'd never even dreamed of going: Ulan Bator in Outer Mongolia! The days there included yurts, lamasaries, kumuss (fermented mare's milk), and an eclipse of the sun. The Central Kingdom Express took us across the border to Communist China, stopping first at Datong for the Buddhist Yungang Caves, and then at Peking, one of the most incredible cities in the world with the Summer Palace, the Forbidden City, the Temple of Heaven, and a tour to the Great Wall of China. If YOU feel amazed at this itinerary, how do you think I felt?? The trip continued through Xian for the Ban-Po Neolithic Site and the 5000 terracotta warriors of the first Chinese Emperor's tomb-guard. Loyang followed with the White Horse Temple and the Longmen Buddhist Caves, even more intricately carved than the Yungang. I even got to spend three days in a hospital in Nanking with 105 fever---for $50, including some of the best food in China---and all the Chinese food was very good! Still by train to Shanghai for four days and Canton for three, and then from Hong Kong I flew to Manila (on my own now; group stopped in Hong Kong) for a day to the Pagsanjan Falls, then to Guam, Saipan, Koror, Yap, and Ponape for a series of incredible North Pacific island-paradises. Home on Sept. 3 after stopping in Honolulu and San Diego. THAT was a paragraph and a trip!

Took quite a while catching up with bills and work and friends after that, made easier by showing them 300 slides I selected from the 800 I took on the trip. After catching my breath I left on December 15 for Italy, where my friend from Paris joined me for ten days of driving around Sicily, after which I spent a week in Naples enjoying Capri and Pompeii, a week in the Alps and Dolomites enjoying winter, and ten days in Milan with friends. Since the Italian mail system is SO bad, I sent no cards---so here's greetings!

LIFELIST ENTRIES FOR 1980, through January 20, 1981, the end of Italy trip:

M 81-01-10 Ordinary People
B 81-01-13 Clarke: Time Probe
M 81-01-13 Raging Bull
M 81-01-15 Flash Gordon
P 81-01-15 Trial of Doctor Beck, The
R 81-01-15 Tiffany's
M 81-01-17 Last Wave
M 81-01-17 Picnic at Hanging Rock
M 81-01-18* Hospital (Wiseman)
M 81-01-19* Coronation of Poppea
O 81-01-19* Coronation of Poppea
M 81-01-20* Vigil in the Night
D 81-01-21 Cleveland Ballet:Celebrations/ThingsOurFatherLoved/U.S.
M 81-01-21 Private Benjamin
D 81-01-22 Dance Theater of Harlem: SwanLakeII/TroyGame/Scheherazade
E 81-01-22 Fokine exhibit at Lincoln Center Library
M 81-01-22 Altered States
M 81-01-22 Altered States
I 81-01-23 Start at St. George Health Club
E 81-01-24 Indonesian dinner party
M 81-01-26* Taming of the Shrew (BBC)
B 81-01-28 Vonnegut: Jailbird
M 81-01-28* Elektra
R 81-01-30 Omnibus
B 81-02-02 : Hazards of Being Male
E 81-02-03 WSDG talk by Dennis and me on JO
P 81-02-04 Trixie True, Teen Detective (Marilyn Sokol)
M 81-02-05 Kagemusha
M 81-02-06 Ape
M 81-02-06 Dangerous Mission
R 81-02-06 Seventy-Ninth Street Restaurant
M 81-02-08* Hooper
M 81-02-09* Willard
D 81-02-10 Sergio Cervetti at DTW
M 81-02-10* Ben
E 81-02-11 Red Rodney at Village Vanguard
R 81-02-11 Le Petit Robert
B 81-02-12 : Problems
B 81-02-12 Huxley: Jonah
B 81-02-12 Woolf: Society, A
D 81-02-12 Ohio Ballet: SchubertWaltzes/Duet/Images/FantasyinFMinor
R 81-02-12 Lutece with Amy
B 81-02-13 Burroughs: APO-33 Bulletin
B 81-02-13 Newby: Big Red Train Ride
D 81-02-13 Ohio Ballet: ConcertoBarocco/Pavane/SummerNight/Aureole/ScnCh
B 81-02-14 Sturgeon: I, Libertine
M 81-02-14 Incredible Shrinking Woman
R 81-02-14 Coup de Fusil, Le
B 81-02-15 Burroughs: Time
M 81-02-15* Jaws II
M 81-02-15* Mother, Jugs, and Speed
M 81-02-15* White Lightning
B 81-02-16 Burroughs: Retreat Diaries
M 81-02-16* Assassination Bureau
M 81-02-16* Legend of the Lost
M 81-02-16* Treasure of the Golden Condor
B 81-02-17 Watts: Way of Zen, The
M 81-02-17 Popeye
M 81-02-17 Urban Cowboy
R 81-02-17 Mirrors
E 81-02-18 Art Hodes at Hanratty's
R 81-02-18 Hanratty's
B 81-02-19 Bradbury: Stories of Ray Bradbury
E 81-02-21 ASI Seminar all day
M 81-02-23* Merchant of Venice (BBC)
M 81-02-23* Who's Killing the Great Chefs of Europe?
B 81-02-24 Watts: Psychotherapy East and West
M 81-02-24* Evita
O 81-02-25 Parade (Chryst)/Mammelles deTiresias/L'EnfantetlesSortileges
M 81-02-27* From Noon to Three
P 81-02-27 Lolita (Donald Sutherland)
R 81-02-27 Mildred Pierce
D 81-02-28 Kathy Posin
B 81-03-01 : Illusions
M 81-03-02* Eliser D'Amore, L' (Met)
O 81-03-02* Eliser D'Amore, L' (Met)
B 81-03-03 : Going to Extremes (Alaska)
M 81-03-03* Woman Rebels
M 81-03-04* Presenting Lily Mars
B 81-03-08 Watts: Meaning of Happiness, The (LAST WATTS!)
O 81-03-08 Pearl Fishers (Arnold, McCauley, Christos)
M 81-03-13* Deathsport
M 81-03-13* Panic in the Streets
E 81-03-14 Met Mus for Korean Art
O 81-03-15 Attila (Samuel Ramey)
S 81-03-16 Hellfire Club (Paul and Gary)
M 81-03-17* Petulia
M 81-03-17* Voices
M 81-03-19 Dante (Russell)
M 81-03-19 Delius (Russell)
M 81-03-19 Elgar (Russell)
M 81-03-19 Isadora (C. Pickles)
P 81-03-21 Fifth of July (Christopher Reeve)
M 81-03-22* I Regret Nothing (Piaf)
S 81-03-23 Hellfire Club
M 81-03-24 Consequence
M 81-03-24 You Are Not Alone
R 81-03-24 Palm Too
B 81-03-27 Dahl: Twits, The
B 81-03-27 Plotinus: Essential Plotinus
D 81-03-27 Atlanta Ballet RagaManjkamaj/Scherzo/GoodMorrow/RaymondaVars
E 81-03-27 Eisenstadt exhibit at ICP
E 81-03-27 Marisol exhibit at Janis
E 81-03-27 Matchsafes at Cooper-Hewitt
R 81-03-27 Jackson Hole
R 81-03-27 Train Bleu
D 81-03-29 Gala
M 81-03-30* Tempest (SF Ballet)
S 81-03-30 Steve from Gym
M 81-04-01 Get Out Your Handkerchiefs
M 81-04-01 Maitresse
R 81-04-01 La Tulipe
D 81-04-05 Lar Lubovitch: NorthStar/ExultateJubilate/BeauDanube/Cavalcad
D 81-04-07 Men Dancing: Small/Cunningham/Solomons/Charlip/DeGroat
E 81-04-08 Actualism party here (Dennis makes Bistkeyah), 12 guests
D 81-04-09 Houston: Papillon
R 81-04-10 Les Joies
B 81-04-11 Eiseley: Another Kind of Autumn
D 81-04-11 Danny Grossman:Bella/Nobody'sBusiness/Higher/EndangeredSpecs
D 81-04-11 Men Dancing: Redlitch/Seder/Henry/Buckley/Alum/Gornel
D 81-04-12 Houston: FourLastSongs/Praeludium/Lady and the Fool
O 81-04-12 Tosca (Zschau, Diaz, Trussel)
R 81-04-14 Hung Yuan
D 81-04-15 Paul Taylor: Diggity/FromSeaToShiningSea/ArdenCourt(GREAT)
E 81-04-15 Mara's with my slides
B 81-04-18 Coover: Charlie in the House of Rue
E 81-04-18 Melba Liston at Town Hall
E 81-04-18 Prospect Park with Bruce
R 81-04-18 Un, Deux, Trois
M 81-04-19* Hermitage
B 81-04-20 : Switch on the Night
D 81-04-20 ABT Raymonda/Rendezvous/Concerto/PushComesToShove
B 81-04-21 Clarke: Arthur Clarke's Mysterious World
B 81-04-21 Davis: Let's Eat Right to Keep Fit
M 81-04-21 Excalibur
M 81-04-21 Excalibur
M 81-04-22 Parlor, Bedroom, and Bath
M 81-04-22 Steamboat Bill, Jr.
R 81-04-22 Le Refuge
S 81-04-22 Redvers from Gym
B 81-04-23 Eiseley: To Sing Strange Songs
M 81-04-23 Tess
M 81-04-24* Antony and Cleopatra (BBC)
M 81-04-24 Assault on Precinct l3
M 81-04-24 Halloween
R 81-04-24 Foffe's
B 81-04-25 Ballard: Venus Hunters
B 81-04-26 : Om
M 81-04-26* Conquest of Everest
M 81-04-26 Handsome
B 81-04-27 Coover: Theological Position, A
D 81-04-29 Mercury Ballet:EternityBounce/Beauty&Beast/Czernyana
M 81-05-01 Ossessione
M 81-05-01* People Will Talk
M 81-05-01 Postman Always Rings Twice (l946)
E 81-05-02 ASI Annual Meeting
B 81-05-03 Ballard: Unlimited Dream Company
M 81-05-03* Beyond and Back
M 81-05-03* Seduction of Joe Tynan
E 81-05-04 Grand Hyatt Hotel for cocktails
M 81-05-04* Sixty Years of Seduction
R 81-05-04 Oyster Bar
M 81-05-05 Man With Bogart's Face
M 81-05-05 Stuntman
R 81-05-05 Buenos Aires
E 81-05-07 Cavett taping with Len Deighton/Celia Johnson &Trevor Howard
E 81-05-07 NY Philharmonic Rehearsal:Bach/Penderecki/Berlioz:TeDeum
R 81-05-07 Montague Street Saloon
E 81-05-08 Faye Levey's for meditation
R 81-05-08 Arabia Felix
E 81-05-09 Act I for drinks
P 81-05-09 Little Foxes (Elizabeth Taylor)
R 81-05-09 Mildred Pierce
E 81-05-12 Marj Mahle's play reading
M 81-05-14 Harry Smith Films
E 81-05-15 Eyeclasses for 3 days
M 81-05-17* Meatballs
M 81-05-18* Sergeant Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band
I 81-05-19 Cold for 6 days
D 81-05-20 Sydney Ballet
P 81-05-20 Scrambled Feet
D 81-05-21 Sydney Ballet
M 81-05-21 Labyrinth
R 81-05-21 Circles
D 81-05-23* ABT Raymonda/JardinAnimee/FilleMalGardeePDD/SlpgBtyActIII
M 81-05-23* Black Narcissus
M 81-05-24* All's Well that Ends Well (BBC)
R 81-05-26 Noorjehan
R 81-05-27 Home Village Chinese Restaurant
E 81-05-28 Benjamin Creme
P 81-05-29 Real Inspector Hound
R 81-05-29 Lisanne
E 81-06-01 Cynthia Crane at Jan Wallman's
R 81-06-01 Jan Wallman's
M 81-06-02* Passionate Friends
R 81-06-02 Noorjehan
B 81-06-04 Huxley: Art of Seeing
M 81-06-05 Fan
M 81-06-05 Raiders of the Lost Ark
R 81-06-05 York's
E 81-06-06 Actualism Summer Gathering at Croton Park
E 81-06-07 Irish Fair
B 81-06-10 Eiseley: All the Night Wings
M 81-06-12 Four Seasons
R 81-06-12 Petit Penguin
B 81-06-14 Bradbury: When Elephants Last in the Dooryard Bloomed
M 81-06-14* Tarzan's New Adventure
M 81-06-14* Winter's Tale (BBC-complete)
E 81-06-17 Gurdjieff music
E 81-06-18 Red Norvo at Michael's Pub
M 81-06-18 Outland
R 81-06-18 Henry's End
R 81-06-18 La Puglia
R 81-06-18 Michael's Pub
B 81-06-20 Bailey: Glamor, A World Problem
I 81-06-22 Rita has a boy, Paul
B 81-06-23 : Earthquake Generation
R 81-06-26 Capulet's
M 81-06-27* Lemora, Lady Dracula
D 81-06-28* Cinderella (Royal: Collier,Dowell)
M 81-06-28* Cinderella (Royal: Collier,Dowell)
M 81-06-28 Dragon Slayer
E 81-06-30 Buddy Greco at SPQR
R 81-06-30 SPQR
D 81-07-01 Royal Ballet: Isadora (Park, Hoskings, Rencher)
R 81-07-01 Henry's End
M 81-07-02 Clash of the Titans
R 81-07-02 Movenpick
E 81-07-04 Fireworks in River
B 81-07-05 Velikovsky: Peoples of the Sea
M 81-07-06 Superman II
T 81-07-06 Fly Laker to London for 60 days of Russia-China-Pacific Trip
R 81-07-07 Fortrae (Edinburgh)
S 81-07-07 Brian Foley
T 81-07-07 Gatwick/Victoria/Edinburgh/NelsonHotel/RoyalAcademy/QueenEII
R 81-07-08 Bernard's Restaurant Francais
R 81-07-08 Laughing Duck (Edinburgh)
T 81-07-08 Edinburgh Castle/ScottishWarMemorial/NationalGallery/ScottMem
R 81-07-09 Dickens for Soo Chan Duck (Edinburgh)
T 81-07-09 Glasgow/Inverness/Forres/Findhorn/AdrossHotel/Bagpipes
R 81-07-10 Bed and breakfast house
T 81-07-10 Kyle/Kyleakin/Skye/Armadale/Mallaig/Crianlerich/Oban/GLeGuen
M 81-07-11* Cat People
M 81-07-11* Clemenza Di Tito (Ponelle)
R 81-07-11 Iona Cafeteria (Iona)
R 81-07-11 North British Hotel Restaurant (Glasgow)
T 81-07-11 Craignure/Mull/Fionhport/Iona/Staffa/Glasgow/N.BritishHotel
M 81-07-12* Killing of a Chinese Bookie
M 81-07-12* Spiral Road
R 81-07-12 Kentucky Fried Chicken (Glasgow)
T 81-07-12 Hunterian/U.Glasgow/GlasgowMuseum/BotanicalGardens/Cath/Cem
T 81-07-13 London Train/MeetGroup/VictoriaStreet&PalaceArea
R 81-07-14 Channel Ferry lunch
R 81-07-14 Quai D'Orsay (Paris)
R 81-07-14 Victoria Station Hotel champagne breakfast (London)
T 81-07-14 Folkstone/Calais/ParisSheraton/Fireworks over Trocadero
D 81-07-15 Walloons Ballet: Dame Aux Camellias, La
R 81-07-15 Paris Sheraton with JJ
T 81-07-15 Train Exhibit/Dine Outdoors/Buy Stamps/Montparnasse Cemetery/JJ
T 81-07-15 Trocadero/Invalides/Concorde/SacreCoeurCellar/TourSt.Jacques
R 81-07-16 Le Bou Bou
T 81-07-16 Berlin/HotelIntercontinental/Hans-Jorg&Christel
R 81-07-17 Berlin Beer Garden for dinner
R 81-07-17 Hotel Intercontinental breakfast buffet
T 81-07-17 East Berlin:PergamonMuseum/LeninPlaza/CityTour
T 81-07-17 Kaiser Wilhelm Church/Reichstag/Wall/Zoo/CheckpointCharlie
T 81-07-18 Train over Oder/Poznan/Warsaw/Hotel Forum/Storm/DineinHotel
T 81-07-19 Lazienski Park/ChopinMemorial/OldTownSquare/President'sHouse
T 81-07-19 Town Walls/Warsaw Ghetto/"Change Money?"/Bug River into Russia
D 81-07-20 Bashkiri Folk Dancers in Tchaikovsky Hall (Moscow)
R 81-07-20 Cosmos Hotel Restaurant (Moscow)
T 81-07-20 Russia/Moscow/CosmosHotel/Kremlin/LeninLibrary/UnivVista
O 81-07-21 Buran, Uzbek opera in Moscow Congress Hall
T 81-07-21 Kremlin ArmoryTour/ExhibitionPark/CosmosExhibit/BotanicGardns
D 81-07-22 Sleeping Beauty, Uzbek ballet in Moscow Congress Hall
T 81-07-22 St. Basil/GumStore/MusHist/LeninMus/TretyakovGallery
T 81-07-23 Yaroslavl RR Station for Trans-SiberianExpress/Zagorsk/Volga
T 81-07-24 Trans-Siberian Express:Kirov/Balezeno/KamaRiver/Perm/Urals
T 81-07-25 Schlaya/Nosveyevskaya/Omsk/Tatarsk/Barabinsk/Ob/Novosibirsk
T 81-07-26 Taiga/Achinsk/Yenesi/Krasnoyarsk/Ilanskaya/SouthSiberia
T 81-07-27 Irkutsk/AngaraRiver/LakeBaikal/IntouristHotel/Listvianka
T 81-07-28 Baikal/HydrofoilAngara/Cathedrals/WarMemorial/Museums
T 81-07-29 South Baikal Shradgoska/Vydrino/Ulan-Ude/Stamps/Mongolia
M 81-07-30 One Unit of Soldiers
T 81-07-30 Dzun-Hara/UlanBator/MainSquare/NatlMus/Ulan-SakbeTomb/WarMem
M 81-07-31 Beautiful Life
T 81-07-31 Lamasery/EclipseofSun/YurtVillage/ClimbHill/HotelDinner
M 81-08-01 Katan Bator
T 81-08-01 High Lama'sPalace/AmusementPark/MongolianMuseum/60AnnivrsyExb
T 81-08-02 Ulan Bator-China/Sunset Slides to empty camera/Border 10PM-2AM
E 81-08-03 Chinese Acrobats and Jugglers (Datong)
T 81-08-03 Datong/Hotel/Curb-Sitting/YungangCaves/People-Watching
T 81-08-04 Locomotive Factory/School/Monasteries/MetalArtsFactory
O 81-08-05 Peking Opera for "His and Her" l918 Drama
R 81-08-05 Ching Chow Hotel Breakfast (Peking)
T 81-08-05 Peking/ZooTourStoppedForRain/SummerPalaceInRain/PekingHotel
T 81-08-06 Forbidden City/TempleofHeaven/LargestFriendship/Shop
R 81-08-07 Great Wall Shed for yellow watermelon
R 81-08-07 Peking Duck Restaurant (Peking)
T 81-08-07 Great WallofChina/MingTombs/StatuaryLane/DingLingTombs/Park
T 81-08-08 Peking Train Five Guys Hard Class/Anyang/StiflingRidetoXian
R 81-08-09 Provincial Taste Restaurant (Xian)
R 81-08-09 Xian lunch
T 81-08-09 Cloisonne Factory/Ban-PoNeolithicSite/TerracottaWarriorsGREAT
T 81-08-09 Xian/People'sHotel/MainSquareTaiChi/ShanxiMus/BigWldGoosPagd
R 81-08-10 Canton Restaurant (Loyang)
T 81-08-10 Loyang/WhiteHorseTemple/FriendshipHotel/ParkWalk&TALKTALK
T 81-08-11 Loyang TaiChi/LongmenCaves/People'sPark/Zoo/Nanking
I 81-08-12 Sick 3 days in Nanking People's Hospital/SleepWithIntravenus
T 81-08-12 Yangtze River/Xuan Wu Lake/Lunch Hotel/Miss Tien helps
T 81-08-13 Mr.Tsi:Interpreter/Mr.Jo:Interpreter/IntestinalInfection
T 81-08-14 Walk Grounds/Released5PM/DinnerHotelTienShan
T 81-08-15 Shanghai/Bund/CityTour/Arts&CraftsFactories/HospitalTalkEve
R 81-08-16 Shanghai Seaman's Club lunch
T 81-08-16 Jade BuddhaTemple/YuGardens/HarborTourToYangtzeRiver
R 81-08-17 Park Hotel Dinner (Shanghai)
T 81-08-17 Shanghai Zoo/ShanghaiMuseum/Arts&CraftsResearchCenter/Fair
T 81-08-18 Shanghai-Canton with good food on VERY hot train, scenic
T 81-08-19 Canton/Bai Yun Hotel in rain
R 81-08-20 Canton Dinner/I read farewell poem
T 81-08-20 Chu Liao People'sCommune/SunYat-SenMemorialHill/LiwanGardens
T 81-08-21 Canton-HongKong Train/Fly HongKong-Manila/PhilippineVillage
T 81-08-22 Makati/ChinesCemtry/Univrsity/City/Pagsanjan/NayangPilipino
R 81-08-23 Japanese Restaurant (Guam)
T 81-08-23 Nayang Pilipino/Fly Manila-Guam/Bill Voightlander
R 81-08-24 Caroline's for dinner/sunset from cliff
T 81-08-24 WWII Guns/SouthGuamTour:Zero/Yoko'sCave/Falls/Mus/Latte/Fort
R 81-08-25 Cambodian Restaurant (Guam)
R 81-08-25 Revolving Restaurant (Guam)
T 81-08-25 Saipan/Beaches/MountTapachou/BanzaiCliff/SuicideCliff/BirdI
R 81-08-26 DiAngel Restaurant (Koror)
T 81-08-26 Guam-Koror/BarsekesauHotel/WalkTown/Museum
R 81-08-27 DiAngel Restaurant (Koror)
T 81-08-27 Snorkel RockIsland/NgemilisDropoff/IslandLunch
R 81-08-28 Esa Hotel Restaurant (Yap)
T 81-08-28 Koror-Yap/DriveWholeIsland/EsaHotel/WonderfulPeople
R 81-08-29 Village Hotel Restaurant for mangrove crab (Ponape)
T 81-08-29 Yap-South/Koror-Guam-Truk-Ponape/VillageHotel
R 81-08-30 Village Hotel Restaurant for mangrove crab (Ponape)
T 81-08-30 Mass in Village/ColoniaTour/PeopleTalk
R 81-08-31 Aikani VI dinner-dance (Oahu)
R 81-08-31 Zippy's for lunch (Oahu)
T 81-08-31 CROSS DATELINE/GAIN DAY: YMCA/ParadisePark/MoanaFalls/Bishop
T 81-08-31 Museum/Glass-BottomHarborBoat/PaliHighway/BargainTickets
T 81-08-31 Nan Madol Tour/Snorkel/FallsLunch/FlyKwajelein/Manjuro/Oahu
R 81-09-01 Old Town Restaurant (San Diego)
T 81-09-01 Fly Oahu-LosAngeles-SanDiego/Luggage gets lost/DennisHERE!
R 81-09-02 San Diego Wildlife Farm dinner (San Diego)
R 81-09-02 Taming of the Stew lunch (San Diego)
T 81-09-02 Fore-Edge Painting/SanDiegoWildlifeFarm/WaitForLuggage
M 81-09-03 Arthur
R 81-09-03 Montague Saloon
T 81-09-03 San Diego-Los Angeles/Miss Capitol Flight/LosAngeles-NYC
M 81-09-05 Heavy Metal
R 81-09-05 El Castilano
E 81-09-06 Arthur Ellenbogen's barbecue
E 81-09-08 TaiChi for first of several times
M 81-09-09* Bound for Glory
M 81-09-10* Harlan County USA
M 81-09-10 Moscow Doesn't Believe in Tears
M 81-09-12* Harvest of Shame
M 81-09-13* Tannhauser (Bayreuth)
O 81-09-13* Tannhauser (Bayreuth)
M 81-09-14 Destiny
M 81-09-14* Peeping Tom
M 81-09-14* Searchers
M 81-09-14 Spiders
M 81-09-15 Saphead
M 81-09-16* All Quiet on the Western Front (Thomas)
B 81-09-17 Huxley: On Art and Artists
D 81-09-17 Alvin Ailey CongoTangoPalace/BabyChildBorn/Interim/EchosBlu
E 81-09-18 Carol Ann Schofield
M 81-09-19* Henry VIII (BBC)
M 81-09-20 Chinatown
M 81-09-20 Postman Always Rings Twice (l98l)
R 81-09-20 Ye Old Tripple Inn
M 81-09-22 Cutter's Way
M 81-09-23 Tarzan, the Ape Man (Bo Derek)
M 81-09-24 Inspiration
M 81-09-24 Romance
R 81-09-24 Dojo's
B 81-09-25 Golding: Darkness Visible
M 81-09-25* Providence
E 81-09-27 Atlantic Antic
R 81-09-27 Arabia Felix
R 81-09-27 Old Hungary with Ed and Anne
M 81-09-29 New York, New York
P 81-09-30 Nicholas Nickleby 2PM-6PM and 7PM-11PM
E 81-10-03 Blake exhibit at Morgan Library
M 81-10-03* Alexander: The Other Side of Dawn
R 81-10-03 Mumbles
O 81-10-04 Opera 11AM (?)
M 81-10-07* Model
R 81-10-09 Stonehenge
M 81-10-10 Superman Cartoons
M 81-10-12* Othello (Hopkins)
M 81-10-14 American Werewolf in London
M 81-10-14 Coal-Miner's Daughter
P 81-10-14 Dance and the Railroad, The, at Public Theater
M 81-10-15* Green for Danger
O 81-10-20 Due Foscari, I
D 81-10-21 Joffrey Ballet: Gala
E 81-10-21 Jan Clayton at Stilwende
R 81-10-21 Ken's
B 81-10-22 Newby: Short Walk in the Hindu Kush
D 81-10-22 Kenneth Rinker at ATL
B 81-10-23 Golding: Scorpion God
E 81-10-24 Great Adventure with Susan and Dennis
D 81-10-30 Harkness House Dancers
R 81-10-30 Le Chantilly
M 81-10-31* Bride of Frankenstein
M 81-10-31* Dracula (Lugosi)
M 81-10-31* Frankenstein
M 81-10-31* Son of Frankenstein
R 81-11-01 Woerner's
M 81-11-03 Melvin and Howard
M 81-11-03 Resurrection (Burstyn)
M 81-11-03 Soldier of Orange
R 81-11-03 Olympia
M 81-11-04 Age of the Medici
M 81-11-04 Cosimo De Medici
M 81-11-04 Leon Battista Alberti
M 81-11-04 Power of Cosimo
R 81-11-04 One Fifth
R 81-11-05 Woods
M 81-11-06 King in New York
M 81-11-06 Running Wild
M 81-11-07 Murder at the Gallop
M 81-11-07 Murder Ahoy
R 81-11-07 El Charro
R 81-11-09 Blackfriar's (Bennington)
R 81-11-09 Iron Kettle (New Milford)
T 81-11-09 Upstate with Susan and Dennis for 2 days
T 81-11-09 Webatuck/KentFalls/BoulriceGuests/Connecticut
R 81-11-10 Four Brothers Pizza (Vt)
T 81-11-10 Shaker Village/Bash Bish Falls/TaconicGasPanic
E 81-11-11 Scuba lesson at gym
B 81-11-12 Hesse: Wandering
D 81-11-13 Peter Sparling: Fantasia/PhantomDances/Iris/4Ballds/FrflSym
B 81-11-14 Ballard: Hello America
R 81-11-15 Swiss Chalet
B 81-11-17 : Expanded Universe
M 81-11-18* For Ladies Only
M 81-11-18* Xi'an
B 81-11-19 Hesse: Crisis
D 81-11-21 Dancer As Athlete:Loremil Machado Afro-Brazilian Dance Co
D 81-11-21 Dancer As Athlete:Musawwir/Baker'sHalfDozen/SaekoIchinohe
M 81-11-23 Enthusiasm (Vertov)
M 81-11-23 Kino Pravda (Vertov)
M 81-11-23 Man With a Movie Camera
B 81-11-24 Blackwood: Italian Conjurer
B 81-11-24 Blackwood: Sambo and Snitch
B 81-11-24 Blackwood: Through the Crack
B 81-11-24 Lessing: Sirian Experiments
B 81-11-26 Blackwood: Garden of Survival
B 81-11-26 Burroughs: Cobble Stone Gardens
B 81-11-27 Blackwood: Karma
B 81-11-27 Huxley: What Are You Going To Do About It?
B 81-11-28 Burroughs: Exterminator
B 81-11-28 Burroughs: Intrepid
B 81-11-28 Clarke: Going into Space (1954)
B 81-11-28 Clarke: Into Space (1971)
B 81-11-28 Clarke: Boy Beneath the Sea
B 81-11-28 Clarke: First on the Moon (Epilog)
B 81-11-28 Clarke: Exploration of the Moon
B 81-11-28 Collier: Gemini
B 81-11-29 Burroughs: White Subway
B 81-11-29 Clarke: Indian Ocean Treasure
B 81-11-29 Clarke: Man and Space
M 81-11-29* Paradise Alley
B 81-11-30 Hesse: Pictorial Biography
I 81-11-30 Cold for 5 days
M 81-11-30* Drums Along the Mohawk
P 81-12-01 Grown-Ups
R 81-12-01 Century
M 81-12-02* Bing Crosby: Life and Legend
M 81-12-02* Pennies From Heaven (Crosby)
B 81-12-03 Hesse: Tales of Student Life
M 81-12-03* Dumbo
M 81-12-03 Time Bandits
R 81-12-04 Market Street
E 81-12-06 Amy and Adam married at Box Tree in Westchester
I 81-12-06 Dennis wants to be "temporarily monogamous" with Dick Curry
R 81-12-06 Box Tree in Westchester
B 81-12-07 Dinesen: Daguerreotypes
M 81-12-07 China (Hoskings)
M 81-12-07 Paradis Perdu (Gance)
M 81-12-11* Slaughterhouse Five
T 81-12-15 Fly to Italy for 37 days/Buy Edouardo a Dakin
T 81-12-16 Zurich/St.GotthardPass/Schwyz/Goshenen/Bellinzona/Lugano
R 81-12-17 Banco (Milan)
R 81-12-17 Biffi Bar in Galleria (Milan)
T 81-12-17 Duomo Roof/PoldiPezzoliMuseum/EnglishChurch/LaScalaTickets
D 81-12-18 Swan Lake (Savignano, Pierin) (Milan)
R 81-12-18 Ciardi Pizza (Milan)
R 81-12-18 Il Peschariccio (Milan)
T 81-12-18 Brera Gallery/SforzaCastle/PinacotecaCivica/LaScalaTickets
P 81-12-19 Vanitas/Varietes in Piccolo Scala (Milan)
T 81-12-19 Street Market/TrainReservations/Italy-SicilyPlanning
O 81-12-20 Lohengrin (Peter Hoffman) (La Scala, Milan)
T 81-12-20 Certosa DiPavia/Martinis/CokeSniff/Bergamo-HostParty
R 81-12-21 Dante and Beatrice (Naples)
T 81-12-21 Milan-NaplesTrain/PalaceHotel/WalkViaTribunale
R 81-12-22 Ristorante Italiana (Palermo)
T 81-12-22 Naples-PalermoTrain/HotelCentrale/PhoneJJ
R 81-12-23 Hotel Centrale Restaurant (Palermo)
T 81-12-23 Trapani/EriceTrain/Castles/Churches/Roads/Views
D 81-12-24 Persephone and Orfeo (Fracci) in Politeama Garibaldi/Palermo
R 81-12-24 Le Gourmand (Palermo)
R 81-12-24 Nuovo Castelnuovo (Palermo)
T 81-12-24 Cash money and walk streets/Jean-Jacques arrives
R 81-12-25 Il Scandalotto Pizza for Christmas Dinner (Sciacco)
R 81-12-25 Santa Ninfa Pizza Lunch for Christmas Day (Santa Ninfa)
T 81-12-25 Palermo-SciaccaCar/Segesta/Selinunte/Sciacco/MotelAgipSciaco
R 81-12-26 Akrobello Hotel (Agrigento)
R 81-12-26 Garden Hotel Breakfast (Sciacca)
R 81-12-26 Jolly Hotel Lunch (Selinunte)
T 81-12-26 Sciacca-Agrigento/Selinunte/Menfi/JollyHotel/AgrigentoRuins
R 81-12-27 Centrale (Enna) **
R 81-12-27 Padroni's Pizza (Ragusa)
T 81-12-27 Agrigento-Ragusa/AgrigentoMuseum/PiazzaAmerina/Caltagirone
R 81-12-28 Jonio (Siracusa)
R 81-12-28 Ragusa Duomo Coffee Shop (Ragusa)
R 81-12-28 Siracusa Hotel Jolly Lunch (Siracusa)
T 81-12-28 Ragusa-Siracusa/Ibla/Modica/Noto/Avala/ArethusaFountain/Fort
R 81-12-29 La Bella in La Perla Ionico (Acireale)
R 81-12-29 Minerva Restaurant (Siracusa)
T 81-12-29 Siracusa/Acireale/MuseoBellomo/Mus/Ear/Catania/BelliniTheatr
R 81-12-30 Il Maniero in Castelmolo above Taormina--fabulous!
R 81-12-30 Messina Hotel Jolly dinner (Messina)
T 81-12-30 Acireale-Messina/Mt.Etna/TAORMINA!/MessinaHotelJolly/KeyTrip
R 81-12-31 Il Gardino (Milazzo)
R 81-12-31 Nuovo Castelnuovo (Palermo)
T 81-12-31 Messina-Palermo/Antonella/Duomo/Milazzo/VulcanoAliscafi
R 82-01-01 Bellini (Palermo)
R 82-01-01 Charleston (Palermo)
T 82-01-01 Palermo/Monreale/St.Laurent/Parks/CapuchinMummies/Mt.Pelgrin
B 82-01-02 NAbokov: Pale Fire
T 82-01-02 Reggio Di Calabria/PallazoNormanii/PalatineChapel/St.John/Auml
R 82-01-03 Palace Hotel Restaurant (Naples)
T 82-01-03 Riace Bronzes/ReggioMuseum/NaplesTrain/PalaceHotel/Streets
R 82-01-04 Belvedere (Naples)
T 82-01-04 St. Martino/Zoo/Edenlandia/BusWaits/StreetWanders
R 82-01-05 Donna Maria (Naples)
R 82-01-05 Pizzeria Pazzo (Naples)
T 82-01-05 CapodimonteMus/Molescolo/Harborside/Streets
T 82-01-05 San Lorenzo Maggiore/S.MariaPurgatorio/ArcheologicalMus/DelOvo
R 82-01-06 Draga (Naples)
R 82-01-06 Mimi's (Naples)
T 82-01-06 Funicolare/VillaFloridiana/Aquarium/PiazzaMercato/Streets
T 82-01-06 San Domenico Maggiore/GesuNova/St.ChiaraCloisters/PalazzoReale
B 82-01-07 Nabokov: Nabokov's Dozen
R 82-01-07 Villa (Naples)
T 82-01-07 Circumvesuviana/Pompeii/VillaOfMysteries
D 82-01-08 Giselle (Terabust,Schaufuss) (San Carlo, Naples)
R 82-01-08 Da Giovanni Di Ferrovia (Naples)
T 82-01-08 Capri:VillaJovis/NaturalArch/PuntaMasulla/Faraglioni/Anacapr
T 82-01-08 Monte Solaro/PaniniBeerLunch/SanCarloArea/Streets/Busses
O 82-01-09 Cenerentola (San Carlo, Naples)
R 82-01-09 Harry's Bar (Naples)
R 82-01-09 Papillon (Ischia)
T 82-01-09 Ischia:CapoGranar/Castle/Casamicciola/SanCarloWalkToHotel
R 82-01-10 Rail Station (Verona)
T 82-01-10 Verona: Hotel Rossi Via Rome/Florence/Bologna/TrainLunch
R 82-01-11 Pizzeria (Brunico)
T 82-01-11 Brunico/Bolzano/Brennaro/Fortezza/HotelPoste/WalkTown
R 82-01-12 Restaurant (Merano)
T 82-01-12 Merano/SanCandido/Fortezza/Bolzano/MeranoMalles/EuropaHotel
D 82-01-13 Bilitis and the Faun (Fracci) (Malibran Theater, Venice)
R 82-01-13 Trattoria Malibran (Venice)
T 82-01-13 Tappenerweg/Duomo/ViaPortici/ErioZiglioToVenice/Accademia
R 82-01-14 Pizzeria Beau Brummel (Venice)
R 82-01-14 Pizzeria El Franco (Cortina D'Ampezzo)
T 82-01-14 Giudecca Sunrise/StMarks/CaPesaro/Calalzo/CortinaD'AmpezzoBus
R 82-01-15 Hotel Italia Dining Room (Cortina D'Ampezzo)
R 82-01-15 Tofana Midstation (Cortina D'Ampezzo)
T 82-01-15 Cortina D'Ampezzo:Mietres/Tofana/Faloria/SkiLifts/IcyWalks
R 82-01-16 Cangrande (Verona)
T 82-01-16 Verona: Arena/Tower/Piazzas/WanderStreetsInLovelyObscuringFog
O 82-01-17 Falstaff (La Scala, Milan)
R 82-01-17 Pasta Verde (?) (Milan)
T 82-01-17 Verona-Milan Train/Edgardo's
T 82-01-18 Milan: SantEustorgio/SanLorenzo/Ambrosian/BuyDinnerChampagne
R 82-01-19 Pizza Padrone (Zurich)
R 82-01-19 Rheinfeld Bierhalle (Zurich)
T 82-01-19 Milan-ZurichTrain/Kunsthaus/WalkStreets/Cruise
B 82-01-20 Nabokov: Pnin
R 82-01-20 Clark Street Station
T 82-01-20 Fly from Zurich to NYC after churches/Landesmuseum/Walk Streets