Santa Fe
FRIDAY, JULY 28: Checked off "before trip" list: 1) pack, 2) wash dishes, 3) John: New York Times (he's out of town, so get Spartacus), 4) set up VCR, 5) water plants, 6) go to gym, 7) take earplugs in pants, 8) garbage out. Bed at 10:55PM. Try Actualism. No good. 11:25PM, take 1 mg Rohypnol and white wine. No good. Count backward from 100, no mympths. Disgusted.
SATURDAY, JULY 29: Up 12:15AM for last slice of apple pie and milk, write these notes. Include envelope of baby powder for sticky crotch. Feel TRANQUIL, just not sleepy! Decide at 12:20AM to take one AMBIEN! Back to bed 12:25: 6:50 sleep maximum! Up at 6:35 to pee and up at 7. 7:25 call: "Downstairs 5-10 minutes." Car is outside at 7:29AM. To Fred's at 7:40, airport at 8:10 and get frequent flier number. To coffee shop at 8:30, crowded and baby-y. Fred has coffee and we chat (about sex) and go to JAMMED lounge at 9:20. Shit. Board at 9:45AM. To COLD seats at 9:46AM. Off at 10:13. 3:12 flight announced, at 31,000 feet. Starts VERY cloudy but partly clears up. South to avoid storm. Over Savannah River Atomic Plant? Over Louisiana and Mississippi. Give $20 for vodka and orange for $4 and she gives it BACK when she can't get change! Halfway at 11:51, hazy-clear below, light clouds above. Doing magazine puzzles. SPECTACULAR ox-bow off Mississippi near northern Louisiana. MUCH clearer with one hour to go. #20 12:52 huge Air Force base near big Texas town. AWFUL LOUD BROOKLYN mother and SCREAMING kid ALL way! At LEAST four rows BEHIND. #21 Dallas! #22 airport and Dallas, land at 1:24. Takeoff DELAYED to 3:15! Sit and WAIT. Not LOADING at 3:15. Set watch back two hours. Move back at 2:35. 1:20 flight time. Off at 2:45. #23 3:24 round irrigation in southern New Mexico, 1/2 way between Albuquerque and Dallas. "Landing at 4:05" JUST 1:20, and "Weather to north." Rain south of Albuquerque at 3:55. 3:57 Albuquerque airport. Land at 4:03, 89ºF. Get bags, to National Car Rental at 4:45. Into car at 5PM. #26 5:54 rainbow over Santa Fe. Arrive 6:10 at resort. Into room 6:30: DOUBLE bed! OUT, walk, to Palace for dinner for $112! My visa. Back to hotel, leave 8:16. Back 11:09. Open sofa, close doors to bedroom, shit, close air-conditioning louvers, cover with blankets, and sleep at 11:30PM.
SUNDAY, JULY 30: Wake at 2, 3, 5, 6, and LOTS of "altitude" dreams: a cock sticking up to be masturbated, frustrations and anxieties. Look for Fred's light, on finally at 8:15AM. Shit again, look at books and plans, sort through stuff, and start day at 9:35. INFO! Leave hotel at 10:10, #29 10:20AM El Dorado Hotel. Visa $36 breakfast. #30 11:30 Grant Corner Inn brunch $18. #31 11:37 Museum of Fine Arts (Tibet mandala!). #34 12:33 left-to-right "Sun Opened/Gum /for export; red dot/gum/Fe; Blue Whizzer/timegum/P3. Fabulous "Universal Gum" photos. Roll #2, #0 12:51PM mandala. CROWDS waiting for dismantling, Fred wandering? Got $10 museum pass, WONDERFUL sonic and visual dismantling to 1:30 (WISHED I'd had my videocamera!), and we both got sand. #6 2:32PM 1720 indian buffalo-hide cocks. Pawnees war-painted individuals so that the DEAD could be IDENTIFIED! END of 1:30 tour to 2:45, then START of 3AM tour with NEAT British lady to 3:55PM. TIRING. I sit in park and watch tents come down to 8PM, while Fred had to move us to another room all by himself, poor guy! We walk to meet Meche on street at 8:15 and to hotel at 8:30 to get new coffee maker and at 9PM watch "Savage Planet" and at 10 see "Sex and the City," and "Arliss" to 11, and "Chain of Command" with Ray Scheider as President to 12:50 and shit and bed.
MONDAY, JULY 31: Wake at 6 to shit, lie and think and doze to 9:15. Shower and unpack and do this to 9:50. LOSE TICKETS and finally find them in LAST place: DOP kit! To car at 10:14. Fred drives. #8 and 9 10:35 from Los Alamos highway. 11AM get Los Alamos MAP and GOOD free historical museum 11:15-11:45. #11 11:53 Fuller Lodge. To Blue Window Bistro 12:02. #12 12:18 flowers at Blue Window Bistro before brunch. HUMMINGBIRD in flowers! GOOD quiche and salad to 12:50, and butterflies! GREAT Science Museum. Out at 2PM. To car 2:25. #18 2:38: Ice House site. #32 at 4:45PM. Buy $1 guide AFTER walking through Bandelier, leave at 5:04. #35 &36 5:32: White Rock Canyon. To Cantina 6:35-7:30, ribs, ceviche and Cuban sandwich and beans and margueritas for $90 and Metche. She loses her umbrella case and takes an AGE to exit. I drive to hotel and wash and take pills and tolerate her dog, Puccini, to 8:20, slow long line at opera entrance. Out to shit to 8:40. In at 8:50 and lavish costumes, good Gilda for "Rigoletto" and subtitles to laugh at, which Fred dislikes. LONG wait to get out, to hotel at 12:15, tired. Fred starts watching "8mm" and I get sucked in---ugly---it ENDS at 2:08AM and I get exhausted to bed.
TUESDAY, AUGUST 1: Wake at 6AM to shit, doze til 9:15, up and read Bandelier booklet, and dress and ready for day in town at 9:50AM. O'Keeffe 10:10-10:42, where Fred got us in free by complaining that this WAS on the Museum pass until two weeks ago until she writes out to complementary tickets! Fred phones for reservations and pees to 10:55AM. #1 11:08 East Palace: entry to Los Alamos! #3 La Conquistador Chapel in 1719. #4 11:25 Loretto Chapel and spiral stairs. To IAIA Museum at 11:40, good "Belly button" and ocean photos. Out 11:55 and to car at 12:10 to get to Geronimo Restaurant: I drive, directed by Fred. 2:11 to Museum of Folk Art. FANTASTIC Girard TOY WING! #9 4PM Crucifixion-in-a-bottle. To Indian Culture Museum 4:05-4:30, EXHAUSTING. 4:56 back to hotel! Lie until 5:45 and leave at 6---forgetting my wallet and tickets! Dine with Pat and Jack from Phoenix and the SECOND shrimp skewer makes the meal. Talk of opera "Marriage of Figaro" goes from 7:50-8:15. Acts I and II are 9-10:32! Act III 10:50-11:37! Long intermissions. Act IV 12-12:33 to SHORT applause to 12:35 and QUICK out and home at 12:55, wallet on BED. Watch part of "Delores Claiborne" til 2AM. Sleep.
WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 2: Wake at 6:45 to pee, doze til Fred's up at 9:45. Shower, use deodorant toward end, powder, and get new shirt, and watch "Martin Van Buren" to 10:50AM while Fred fusses. #10 11:03AM Camel Rock. 11:35 to Chimayo. MASS going on inside church. 12:01 we find nothing in Truchas. 12:15 Las Trampas 1760 church. #12 and 13 12:45 blue jay and chipmunk on 518 overlook. #14 1:05 San Francisco de Asis. Put in 504 at 1:25 for 1:25 minutes. 1:30 to Apple Tree for 20-minute wait. Seated at 1:43, and OK tuna melt and Prosecco for $20 and carrot cake dessert for $50. #18 3:20 Gorge. Los Ojos (nada) at 4:55. Hatchery closes 5PM. LONG scenic drive, some rain. Back 6:56 to room, tired, watch "Survivor" to see GERVAIS out (which is good, since Fred said he heard that Gervais and old guy were LAST TWO left!). Then to Blue Corn Cafe for HUGE meals and drinks, then back for "Sopranos" at 11 and "Oz" at 12 and bed DRUNK at 1:05. Shit and back to bed at 1:15AM.
THURSDAY, AUGUST 3: Wake at 6:20, pee at 8:15, and up at 9:30 to repack and organize to 9:55. Finish hot chocolate and dress to 10:15. Shit (at last) and into car 10:30, down Route 25 to Las Vegas at 11:45, NO sign for information or Chamber of Commerce. Fred goes to Hotel Plaza to find map. $17.70 gas, and Spic and Span lunch 12:15-1, and drive through town to try to find historic houses, which we really don't find much of. #22 3:26 road from mine. Through Wildlife Refuge in one hour. Back to hotel 5:15 after curvy Route 503 and going through RED LIGHT on Route 25! Watch TV and dress and out 5:50 to get to Coyote at 6 and Jared JOINS us! SLOW service and $60 good dinner, but HE got off light with $158 + $24 tip = $182, but Fred and I paid $12, not $8! So he owes us $4 each! And later Fred meets him and he gives him $5, which Fred does NOT share with me! WILD plot in opera "Ermione" to 11:20. Long drive out and home at 12:15. Eat brownie and SECOND set of pills to 1:05, since I forgot morning pills and took them with dinner at 8PM!
FRIDAY, AUGUST 4: 6:35 wake to pee and shit while recording dream: I'm working for IBM, waiting for a bus on a second-floor balcony where I'm washing my face at a sink which permits water to splash on people standing in a corner on the floor below, particularly a sexy blond with no shirt on who seems not to notice, but as I rinse my face yet again, one or two guys peer upward. I fumble in my bag for my time sheet, knowing that I've already worked on a long project like the Holt Rinehart and Winston book-indexes for 500 or more hours and I have to update the sheet with about 100 MORE hours, and my bus is just pulling in and I'm ready to board. In fact DON'T shit, only pee and blow my excessively altitude-bloodied nose with continued breathlessness! Look at dead fly on floor, and put it in john. Up at 9:25, shower, brush teeth, dress to 10:15. Flick though TV channels and leave at 10:38 for Fred's stop to load up on packages at the office, WARM today. No more full days: counting hours now: 28!! Stop in Madrid 11:26AM. #23 11:30AM Madrid. GREAT PLACE. Drive south, telling Fred about Countess Doria and LSD. AWFUL Southwest food for breakfast 12:15-12:55 at Clementinas at base of Sandia Peak. To top at 1:30. #26 Sandia crest FLOWERS at 1:32. Down at 2PM. Try a circle, get lost on Frost Road, and finally find an intersection that's on the map. Drive through Stanley and bypass Lamy and talk and drive and hit rain and get to office at 3:56 for Fred's getting me an orange juice. Home in 23 hours! NERVOUS! FOREBODING! Full stomach! Green shirt tore in Madrid, so I throw it OUT! Locked OUT of room! Dress and pack to 4:55, to Riva Yares Gallery 5:10-5:20, Charlotte Jackson's for anodized aluminum from 5:25-5:30. Panacea's had a wrong date. View La Fonda Hotel lobby and Bell Tower Bar (good view and it's BUSY) to 5:50 and NICE Plazuela court for dining. To Santacafe for shiitake and cactus spring rolls and tiger shrimp tempura for me and scallops and tuna for Fred and chocolate cake for me, $102. Back to hotel past pink sunset at 7:45. Lie down til 8:10 and Meche calls and we pick her up and get to opera at 8:35, when I leave them to shit and write this, hot and drunk. Read "Elektra" plot and it goes from 9-10:47! Drive Meche home and to hotel into TIGHTEST spot at 11:35! (Next morning I say "We should have taken the empty Handicapped parking!") Take two Nyquil and bed at 11:46PM. Lie for a while and finally get to sleep about 12:30AM.
SATURDAY, AUGUST 5: Wake at exactly 5AM and look at clock. Doze off and phone rings at 5:43. We're up and I pee and comb hair and put on shirt and Fred makes coffee and it's 5:55 by the time I write this, groggy. Finish packing and pee again by 6:15AM. Everything ready, trunks in back, I crawl into OTHER seat and wiggle over hump to back out and wait for Fred to exit office at 6:27AM. Drive meticulously down and get told we'd have to pay $4.06 per gallon, so I write down directions to next station: Right at stop, left lane, then right lane to Yale Street, two stoplights to Gibson, turn left, gas on right. To gas at 7:41. BACK to checkout at 7:54. Into line at American at 8AM. To shit at 8:12. Sit at Gate B1, 9:06 departure moved to 9:15, and I add up last-page expenses and read Fred copy and give him check for $347 by 8:47AM, not boarding yet. Board 9AM, crowded. 1:18 flight. 33,000 feet. Off at 9:23; clear, then cloudy. "Land at 11:45." Land at 10:41, EXACTLY 1:18. Sit at 10:58 while Fred pees at 11:36. Change watch to 1:36PM. Pee and board at 1:42PM. SHOULD be LESS than 3:12! ONLY JUST in front of wing. "3:06 flight, 75º in NYC." Off at 2:07. I'm EDGY. 2:22: "At 26,000 feet, going up to 33,000." It's bumpy 3:06-3:16. Take AM pills at 3:20PM with light lunch. 4:33 finish last puzzle; cloudy MORE or LESS. 40 minutes! #29 4:50 Chesapeake Bridge-Tunnel? #30 4:54 Atlantic City upper right and Cape May upper left. #31 4:56 Atomic plant in front of engine? Atlantic City on top? #32 4:57 Delaware Memorial (double) Bridge? #33 Philadelphia airport. #34 5:01 DOWNTOWN Philly. #35 5:04 WHAT city? LAST on roll. #00 5:08 BELOW Sandy Hook. #0 5:09 Sandy Hook. #1 5:11 Sandy Hook. #2 5:12 lower-to-upper: Staten Island, two islets, Coney Island, Breezy Point. #3 5:13 Verrazano Bridge! #4 Greenwood Cemetery and Prospect Park. #5 Brooklyn Museum and Library. #6 Gowanus Canal-end. #7 Whitestone and Throgs Neck Bridges. FABULOUS pictures. Land at 5:18. #8 5:21 NEW tower to left of Empire State Building, down to twin towers. LONG wait for bags, AWFUL people, kids, and DOG. Onto taxi 5:59. Home 6:36, Fred gives me $15, I pay $25. Phone machine BLINKING!! DAMN!!
LAST PAGE: FRED OWES ME. He pays: Car $247.83, Hotel $1053.08 =$1302 =$651 each
Sat Eve Palace (V) 1/2 $112 $52.00
Sun Bkfst (V) 1/2 $36 $18.00
Sun Paul's (V) 1/2 $74 $37.00
Mon Blue Window (V) 1/2 $23.14 $11.57
M Bandelier entrance1/2 $10 $5.00
Tue Loretto Chapel 1/2 $5 $2.50
Tue InstAmerIndiArts1/2 $4 $2.00
Tue Geronimo (V) $111.31 $54.00
Wed Gas (V) 1/2 $15.80 $7.90
Wed Apple Tree (V) 1/2 $51.67 $25.00
Wed BlueCorn Cafe(V)1/2 $50.00 $25.00 (FORGOT! Consider "lost" $25
Las Vegas Gas (V) 1/2 $14.70 $7.35 as 3 rolls of film "cost")
Las Vegas Bkfst $16.00 $6.50
Turquoise Bkfst 1/2 $20.00 $10.00
Santacafe (V) 1/2 $102.00 $51.00
Albuquerque Gas (V) 1/2 $17.20 $8.60
$304.00
$651-304=$347, paid Fred with Check #573 dated 8/5/00.
TRIP SUMMARY
SAT,JUL.29: Fly to Dallas 10:13-1:24(EDT), Albuquerque 2:45-4:03(MDT). Dinner at Palace, "Venus and Adonis" at Santa Fe Opera with Fred, Sunterra Resort bed.
SUN,JUL.30: Grant Corner Inn brunch, Museum of Fine Arts (mandala dismantling), TV in hotel and TV-movie "Chain of Command." Tired; breathless from altitude.
MON,JUL.31: Los Alamos; History Museum, Blue Window Bistro brunch, Science Museum, Bandelier Park, White Rock Canyon, Cantina dinner, "Rigoletto," "8mm".
TUE,AUG.1: O;Keeffe Museum, IAIA Museum, Geronimo lunch, Museum of Folk Art, Indian Culture Museum, Buffet dinner at Opera before "Marriage of Figaro."
WED,AUG.2: Chimayo, Truchas, Las Trampas, Taos Apple Tree lunch, Gorge, Los Ojos, Blue Corn Cafe dinner, TV rest of drunken evening and bed exhausted.
THU,AUG.3: Las Vegas, Spic and Span brunch, drive "historic houses," Wildlife Refuge, Coyote Cafe for dinner, "Ermione," taking two sets of pills after 8PM.
FRI,AUG.4: Madrid fun, brunch at Clementinas, Sandia Peak, circle route back to Santa Fe. 3 galleries, La Fonda Hotel lobby & bar, Santacafe dinner, "Elektra."
SAT,AUG.5: Pay Fred, 9:23-10:41 to Albuquerque(MDT), 2:07-5:18 to NYC(EDT).
Took cash $487.02, returned with $279.14, spent cash: $207.88
Santa Fe opera tickets (on 12/6/99 Visa statement): $281.00
American Airlines airfare (on 12/9/99 Visa statement): $380.20
Total of my Visa slips, not yet on Visa statement): $607.82
Check #573 for Fred for hotel/car overage amount: $347.00
TOTAL $1823.90
For an eight-day trip, that averages $227.99/day!! That's FIFTH in list! (RETURN TO JOURNAL 2000).