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1992 5 of 5

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 20: Up at 8 and Joe wants NO breakfast and I have rolls and juice (my mouth has acid sores) and ham, and we drive to Mainau Island at 11 AM and walk over shallow fish-filled duck-covered waters to jammed twelve mark entry and dahlia wall where Joe and I put in "Tartan" for best flower for EUROPE TRIP WITH JOE (1992) - 5 11/27/92

2000-mark first prize. Photos of flower-animals and up at 1 PM to jammed diner where I have kassler ripchen---ham/pork cutlets and sauerkraut and potato salad while she has a salad and Joe has ravioli and we share a mixed dessert the waiter fought with Ruth about getting. Out at 2:30, full, and walk slowly and lethargically down to car, getting apples from an adjoining orchard, and drive to Birnau for Baroque church and singing, then out to Schloss Kirchberg for three 1.5 mark wine samples and vineyards and jammed tables to 4 PM. Then wait in traffic for Meersburg-Konstanz ferry for eleven marks from 5:15-5:40, and then over the waters from 5:40 to 6, and drive back home where I LAY DOWN from 6:15-7:15, and then up to dress and off to Arenenburg to find Heldenhof restaurant they'd liked before. In at 8:15 to be told it's too LATE for seven-course tasting menu with Rehmedallions, and they don't have venison as a SEPARATE entree, so they share the special lamb and I have veal and cream, rather boring, with spetzle and a GREAT flaming pear William dessert. Out at 10:30 and back by 10:45 and bed at 11:35 TOTALLY wiped out.

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 21: Wake at 7:15 and finish her paté and rolls and ham for breakfast and get out at 9:25 to car and drive for blocks before I look for book for events and it's not in my bag! Joe says he saw it on the glass table. Drive back and door's open and I dash up to hear her in the shower. Rap and call and she opens and I'd left the book and pen with the "France" book with Jean-Jacques' number that I'd tried Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and even Monday morning at work to find I haven't the right code. Brother never home either. Out at 9:45 and drive to Singen, then Schwennigen-Villingen exit at Daunaushingen to highway to Offenburg, where I think Strasburg AIRPORT is not what we want, but we have to go up to ACHERN, out of the way. BUT we cross Rhine with GREAT ease to France and find entry to A4, which we decide to take, AND Joe finally had a good shit (he had such stomach pains he thought he had an appendicitis attack RATHER than that he had to shit!) and we bound along on highway to Nancy, stopping for coffee and going ABOUT three kilometers for one franc, paying 100 francs in tolls and get out past Chalons-sur-Marne about 6 PM, down A23, new, and try to Montemenil but get road to Sezanne, the N4, and he likes the drive. Weather from Konstanz GRAY except SOME sun on Mainau and Birnau, and SOME light through Schwarzwald in AM, but clouds down again in France and at 7 PM it's so dark I can barely read the Michelin. We debate staying OUTSIDE Paris and try Le Manoir in Fontenay-Thesigny but Joe refuses to pay 900 francs after almost driving OFF the soft shoulder in turning around when there was no arrow on route D402. Nice place but he REFUSES to spend over $60 and says "I feel better, the rain (heavy, with LIGHTNING!) woke me up; let's go into Paris." Into edge at 8 and get lost five times before we stop at Hotel Notre Dame (Joe says, "It's cheap," and it's 1030 for a night, and I try "Hotel des Argonauts" and a CUTE guy says "Only one single for 300" and I'm TEMPTED. Out to car and drive to Avenue des Etudes near University, which Joe knows, and we ask ABOUT six full and six too expensive hotels before finding Hotel Royal Cardinal for 356 including breakfast. Up to SMALL room and down to find Les Fontaines at the foot of the Rue du Pantheon, Eiffel Tower in distance. Students eat expensive food! Joe has Andouillet, which I hate garbage-taste of, and I have chicken in mushrooms, good with three kinds of potatoes, and have 3/4 burgundy for 75 francs ($15) and pay with Visa for 230. Back weary at 11 and get car and park in FRONT of hotel. Up and pee in WC, not sink, and fall into bed to wake, thinking someone's at door or on balcony, and sleep after peeing again.

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 22: Up at 7:454 and down at 8:05 after quick wash and find Picasso and Louvre closed TUESDAY! But D'Orsay is open. Find that breakfast is served in the ROOM, so back up to eat and clean teeth and out at 8:55 to go by car through HEAVY traffic to D'Orsay, parking at 9:35, and onto LONG line for entry at 10:15 for 31 francs to get in. GRAND PLACE! INCREDIBLE sexy sketchy EUROPE TRIP WITH JOE (1992) - 6 11/27/92

Carpeaux, models from Rodin, dozens of Renoirs, Seurat's "Circus," ROOMS of Gauguin, Rousseau's "La Guerre," and "La charmeuse de serpents." Signacs and Bonnards and Chauvannes and Sisleys and Vuillards by handsful. Chairs by Bugatti and cabinets with cockheads and statuettes and enormous bronzes and marbles. AND cute dazed-eyed teenage men! ROOM of 19 Gauchet collection Van Goghs! 32 Redons! 12 Manet pastels, 3 Millet pastels, and Chauvannes and Toulouse-Lautrec. Tourists looking out over Sacre Coeur. "What are they looking at?" "Oh, those three domes." 23 Cezannes, 21 Renoirs (including two dancers, the fat bathers, and fabulous silky portraits, 21 Monets. Down for lots of Corot (HUGE!) and price guides for 250 and 150 and decide 100 francs for GUIDE is enough. Joe pays for car at 11:36 and I sit at 1:15-1:20 to finish this and MUST pee and out to feed 12 francs til we meet at car at 3:30! Can't put receipt INTO car, so HOPE windshield is OK! Back to go back UP the six escalators to the OTHER "Little Tower" to see what THAT has beneath, knowing I can go to the Legion of Honor Museum after 2 PM if I get bored having seen EVERYTHING at D'Orsay: pastels, paintings, things, furniture, sculpture. AH, other tower is IMPRESSIONISM, which I saw. And the other tower WAS Guimard, but now it's empty. Video goes off AFTER Art Moderne room for Bernard property in 1909. The Rodin bronzes here have FIGLEAFS! EXHAUSTED by 2 PM and go out and across to Legion of Honor Museum and pay ten francs for entry and it's just French and foreign ORDERS and medals and famous people. Out at 3:20 because there's NOTHING more to see, and there's JOE---he'd gone to car at 2 for find slip STILL there under windshield wiper. We go to a corner bistro for a 1/2 liter beer for me for 32 francs and 1/4 liter Vittel for Joe for 16.50 or $3.30! Leave just before 4 (blue metermaid never shows up) and we drive circuitous way to Musee Carnavalet by 4:30, when it closes at 5:40, and Joe wanders around the Place de Vosges and has a coffee and looks at the menu at L'Ambroisie, with Lobster Bisque at 310 francs ($32!), LOWEST appetizers at 180 francs, and the lowest entree about 250 francs, going up to 480! Astounding! Joe says it would be $200 for dinner---you COULD squeak by for $100, but what would the WINE list be like when even a CHEAP wine in a CHEAP place is 88 francs! I pay 16 francs for Carnavalet, they wouldn't reduce it for only an hour, and I race through Stone-Age things (some sexy Mercurys) in ONE house, then upstairs on "Seine Irate," of its floods of 1910 that covered base of D'Orsay and rooms in various palaces, and the 1970 flood that left the Park of Vert-Galant precisely awash! Across to OTHER side and guy asks for ticket AGAIN. I hunt, can't find it, and stalk off as he says "S'il vous plait," and I retort, grimly, "No, s'il VOUS plait!" Race through old rooms, taking quick photos of Fouquet/Mucha interior/exterior and of Marcel Proust's bedroom. Out at 5:35, having see it ALL, and Joe's at the car. We walk past L'Ambroisie on the way to the Hotel Sully, where I spend ten francs for a "World Heritage Map" to catch me up to date, and out back to look at odd church and end up at Seine and Canal and new Opera House at Bastille. Find Bofinger on the way back to car and price 166 franc menu that starts at 7:30. It's 6:30, so we go back to corner bistro and have beers and look at men and D'Orsay guide and sexy foreigners (and LESS sexy Parisians) pass and get sixth or seventh table to be filled, and I have smoked salmon wrapped egg en gelee and duck (toughish) in peaches (delicious) and good cheese-topped creamed potatoes and again peaches in red fruit for dessert while Joe delights in (ALL) six oysters and lamb and Iles Flottant. He has house white and I have house red, OK, and had left neighbors on honeymoon from North Carolina and right Americans who we ignore. Out at 9:30 but it's RAINING on way back to car, so we're back to hotel to find parking place on sidewalk just down street, and up to put on TV at 9:55 and it's a 65-minute LOOP for ARTE program starting 7 PM 9/28, rather fun. Joe falls asleep 2-3 times and I shut it off at 11 & SLEEP!
WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23: Wake at 7:45 and get act together by time breakfast comes at 8:05, and eat and brush teeth and out by 8:45 to pay 720 franc bill EUROPE TRIP WITH JOE (1992) - 7 11/27/92

and lug stuff to car and take off in WRONG direction for Picasso, so we go to park first near LOUVRE and enter and "try out" Pei entrance and shops below, and back to car about 10:30 and drive to Picasso by 11, going through dozens of rooms of SORT of the same thing---he really DIDN'T care for the male body, and particularly the cock, at ALL. Lots of interesting early stuff. [Cranach: Judgment of Paris, has an ERECTION on a tree. And I get a SLIDE of it!] Out about 1 and across to the Iron Museum Joe wants a catalog from, but it's closed. To car and get VERY lost getting out of town, losing an HOUR circling back to correct route to Soissons. [From page 31: ABSOLUTE madness: 1) TRAUMA out of Paris A1 to Senlis says SOISSONS and N2 to Soissons says SENLIS. We drive OVER an hour in a circle getting BACK to N2 through center of Bas-Minot. 2) We NEED gas going INTO Goshen and don't get it til I REMIND Joe on highway to Koln as we PASS a Shell at kilometer 20. By kilometer 40 we MUST exit and drive six kilometers to tiny town where they DON'T take cards and Joe HAS just 76 marks and RAVES at me for not getting cash SOONER, saying I CAN'T rely on CARDS. I'm feeling AWFUL (probably in part because of flight in four days) but ALSO because almost ALL restaurants have AWFUL long waits (though Rathshalle in Aachen gives us FREE beer and FREE salad, letting us out for 33 marks when it should be 40+. MADNESS. And it's 3:30 and we'll NEVER get to Koln by 4 PM! To Offermann via Friedrich Offermannstrasse at 4:30, and meet two women, and Henrike is VERY frazzled and busy, and Joe and she talk as I look through propaganda and decide at 4:42 to keep this up. He's telling me that I'll drive next time and that I should stop hawking him---he said I could take the car tomorrow and I said "If YOU can't drive the car, how can I do it?" and he exploded with "Who do you think's been DRIVING For the past two weeks??" So I said the wrong thing. [back to page 43:] Decide we DON'T want to stop there and have lunch at a Michelin-discovered place in Villars-Carterets, quite good, with a 115 franc bottle of St. Estephe Joe orders that's VERY "barnyard" yet he LOVES it. Maroilles: cheese, and coin: dessert guava at Villers-Carterets. Out at 3 and drive to Laon for the cows peering out of the belfry, and just before 5 check the Seven Deadly Sins gargoyles on the Bishop's side, the upper and lower old chapels given over to meeting rooms that we're chased out of, being told "Come back Saturday for tour." To old hospital basement to 5:15 and stop in restored hall of information office and get back on road to Aachen. Enter suburbs about 8, but Joe insists on stopping near the Dom and we seem to be able to only circle about it and I'm increasingly frustrated and ready to SCREAM after the "leaving Paris" debacle. He insists I find us on the map so I open the door for light and try the glove compartment light and the magnifying glass and locate us at last. Around the fancy Elizabeth Restaurant a SECOND time and thankfully find a parking place. Walk colorful center of town, Joe dragging, and we try two or three hotels and they're all full or too expensive, and we're around and down and it starts raining and I'm getting DESPERATE when we see the Hotel Bristol and a VERY nice guy shows us a room on the street for 140, then a BACK room for 160 on which he halves difference to 150 the next morning. Walk ACROSS central circle to return to car, try to find BP station for parking but Joe finds a place behind and beyond the hotel. He's exhausted by 10 but I say I MUST eat, so we're back to Rathausplatz to find Ratstube closed, but nice Golden Apple open and he has lox and I have a good chicken-mushroom dish and three beers, and we return to hotel at 11:10, Joe really dragging, and fall into bed with light NOW through windows.

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 24: Up at 7:30 and he's showering and I take shower, getting water all over floor but CLEAN for first time since KONSTANZ! To great spread for breakfast, ALWAYS hot chocolate, and cold cuts and paté and cheese. Guy is VERY friendly and dials Doctor Offermann for Joe, and we're to meet Henrike at the factory between 3 and 4. Around town to try to find third museum after getting to Domshatz as it opens at 10 and to cathedral late for tour to choir for chest and ambo and top for throne, and out about 11:30 to EUROPE TRIP WITH JOE (1992) - 8 11/27/92

bypass second museum. Go to Rathskeller for lunch at 1 PM, sitting at too-narrow-for-Joe table and moving to semi-corner, and lots of parties preventing us from being served until 1:50, and out at 2:10 with a free beer and free salad, still a lot at 32 marks. Back to car and go toward Cologne. Directions are pretty good but it's still a long complicated way and we arrive at Red Cross station at 4:15. Meet secretary and then Henrike and I catch up while Joe has small meeting and we leave at 5, following Henrike (going over a sidewalk to pass cars waiting for the light to go straight when we want to turn right) to lovely Waldhotel Mongold, and we hear some boys and Joe just wants to watch TV, so I go out 6:30-7:30 for lovely woods-walk with twelve kinds of over five hundred-of-a-kind mushrooms of white, gray, yellow, tan, red, and deep purple. Back at dark and he's just watched TV. Flip channels to 8:15 and go to PRIVATE room with a lit-for-us FIRE for 85-mark tasting menu of SURPRISING goodness: amuse bouche of pate, fish filets, soup, FABULOUS venison cutlets, and good berries for dessert. GREAT with kir and two wines. To bed to KONK OUT at 10!

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25: Up at 6 and shower and get invited to hotel's breakfast at 7:15, but there's no time since Henrike and Peter are to meet us at 7:30. My ride doesn't arrive by 7:40 so Henrike assumes Guy went to factory instead. Drive to factory and feel out of place, but Guy's not at hotel and Doctor Offermann invites me to the "family" breakfast, after I'd "requisitioned" three slices of ham for my only "breakfast." Sit across from engaged couple and between secretary and Henrike, and exchange glances with handsome Frank. Juice and my ONLY cup of coffee and Brie and rolls and speeches and cheers, then Paul and Frank drive me to Bensburg station and Paul buys me a five mark daily ticket to Neumarkt. Train comes and ride is woodsy and picturesque over river, then underground and I get off at Heumarkt. Walk across to Wallraf Museum JUST opening at revolving door at 10 AM, have huge hassle of paying 8 marks for entry, then finding it's NOT "Breughel to Titian," and pay for MORE for the twelve-mark entry, holding up EVERYONE behind me on line. Huge exhibits, GREAT fatigue, and GOOD guide bought later. Through ALL Wallraf, avoiding loud kids and tours, and then out at 1 to Roman mosaics, with GREAT to-do over "Zu marke" "Close your bag" for "Two marks" for CHECKING bag. Race through, missing EVERYTHING in guide of note, paying five marks to get in and 28 marks for English book and out at 3:10 to dash to Offermann to find NO bus waiting for me! Cash $60 because of cab back to Hotel for tea, and get two marks EXTRA over 86.10 on list! Buy for 2.50 marks a PLUG that the guy ENLARGES for my American plug! Out to "Train 1" and FIRST one only goes to BEFRACT. Wait and sit and watch people and train comes about 3 and on for bright ride back. Off at Bensburg and it's RURAL. Walk two blocks, turn, three more blocks, and I'm back at Bensburg Kolner Strass! No taxis on LONG street. Walk despondently up hill, bag VERY heavy with books in it, and decide to go BACK to BP station and PHONE for taxi and THERE'S a taxi getting GAS. Quick seven-mark trip and one-mark tip to hotel and get key and told to get beer from fridge. Then Joe calls, saying "Dress, we'll be there in five minutes!" Drink a beer and finish his pastry from yesterday's "lunch stop" and put ONE beer back, and down to find Mr. Hall and Doctor Grona in car. To Villa for milling in yard til 5:10, and in for Sekt and I sit and read guide through speeches and brass-band interludes, then see food and get THAT, and then the sister of Doctor Offermann and her husband join me and we chat, tour the villa, and go across at 7:50 for the concert. Most soloists goof, but cembalo and faggott are petty steady. Wonder what LOCALS thought of it? Out at 10:10 and depend on Henrike to take us to hotel, but she has HER parents and PETER'S parents to tend, so she gets to women to return us to hotel. I check plug and it WORKS, and put on small battery to recharge it overnight.
SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 26: Up at 7:30 and shower and have nice breakfast, chattering politics, with couple from last night---obviously THIS is the VIP EUROPE TRIP WITH JOE (1992) - 9 11/27/92

hotel! Out at 9 to brush teeth and check out and my GLASS-LENS falls out. Ransack bags for magnifying glass and screwdriver and fix it and out at 9:20 to waiting trio, and HENRIKE drives OUR car and parents follow. Around Cologne for 1/2 the ride and into Dusseldorf Ko-strasse parking and up to shop. Joe and I leave at 11 for museum, modern, pass one construction area, down to Rhine, buy ice cream, go to Landesmuseum 12-1:30, and out to meet Henrike at 2:30 and she takes us to Movenpick lunch at 3, where I "liquid out" on soup, iced fruit-yogurt drink, two glasses of wine, and mineral water for dessert, not finishing rosti and ham and cheese for lunch. Joe demands to walk, so we sit in Goethe Park to 4 PM, back to car to drive around town for a time til we see signs to Frankfort. Drive and turn off at Limburg at 7, but see church, try hotels, and at 8:10 Joe refuses to pay 215 marks at Hotel Zimmerman for "last room." Out again to road and at Bad Comburg get off for a motel for 115 marks! Wurst and fries and potato salad dinner for 8 marks each, and STILL have cash left over. EXHAUSTED. Up to bed about 10:30, too tired to brush teeth.

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 27: Wake at 4:30 to shit, then at 6:30 to shower and change watches back one hour and out at 8 to drive to Frankfort. 9:15 AM: leave hotel at 8 and drive toward Frankfurt and then toward Frankfurter Kreuz, then to [airplane symbol] Frankfort. Then Joe MISSES a right to the airport and there are no MORE airport signs, and the next exit is either CLOSED or between narrow temporary stanchions. Get off and finally find roads to "Tor 1-21, Tor 22-35," and I panic. We follow them at random, Joe getting off at tower 33 and starts driving the perimeter of what might be a FREIGHT area. I say we MUST stop and ask directions and a handsome German writes "14" for the Budget turn-in. He almost misses turn AGAIN. I shout "RIGHT, RIGHT, right HERE!" THEN we see "Car Return" and drive in and park NOT in "Nur Check-in" and I take mileage though Joe says there's no reason to, and we're up to desk at 8:55 [clocks turned BACK an hour here last night] and get asked for form and mileage and time arrived, and I say "Five minutes ago." Black family had elevator tied up with a loaded baggage cart for three minutes, and when we walked up to check-in counter we're told to walk up to level 2 for the Departure lounge. Walk up two flights again, since long queues wait for slow elevators, and I'm getting TIRED of lugging two bags. Into terminal and Joe stops and stares at Budget slip: $946.10 with insurance, quoted at 249 marks for first week and 365 marks/day for 465 marks total, but CDW at 22.81 marks and PAI of 5.26 per 13 days for 296.53 and 68.38 marks MORE, and then a VAT of 14% for 116.19 marks MORE that I tell Joe we MIGHT be able to get BACK, about $80! We enter at A terminal gate 120, and directory says PIA is at B terminal gate 468, so we walk and walk and it's 9:06 (I fantasized airport would NOT change time and it'd be 10:06!), and we get to desk to be asked if we "Reconfirmed 72 hours before." "No." "Then you were erased from the computer and we can't check you in til 9:45." I clarify it IS nonstop (NOT a stop in Paris or Amsterdam, per Grona), AND it's due in at 1:45 New York Time---TEN hours? No, since we're BACK an hour, we went one hour CLOSER to NYC: 7 AM Europe WAS 1 AM USA, now 6 AM Europe and STILL 1 AM USA is FIVE hour difference, so an EIGHT hour flight, which FITS, and now around 9:45 there's only NINE hours before we might be in NYC!! Ten hours to home! CUTE guy in black jeans across from me, and I decide to get passes with both tickets. She needs to see passports, so I go back and get Joe and luggage, get a cart, and we're off to Gate 61, stopping for my pee and Grand Marnier for 46 marks, hope it's not LESS than $30 in NYC! Then passport control and guy tells Joe to go downstairs at 9:57 and I'm starting to worry about 10:25 departure! Things moving FAST---TOO fast to WORRY! I'd gotten Vicks and sleeping pills into bag. NO VAT return except on PURCHASED goods RETURNING to US. NOT on rentals! Then gate and security check (I LET film go through twice, saying "So what.") at 10:05, and people are LEAVING the plane, so when Joe says, "I'm AMAZED we're EUROPE TRIP WITH JOE (1992) - 10 11/27/92

leaving on time," I say "With people just getting off, I'd be surprised if we left before 11 AM!" Joe says he'll go for coffee at 10:10, and I have to TELL him to take his boarding pass! It's HOT in airport and very HAZY outside. Really SUMMER, not seventh day of FALL. Took one Buspar at 7 AM and now another at 10:25 as I feel tension mounting, reading McEwan and thinking of an almost FULL flight to NYC. Decide to switch current notes to back of McEwan. Still sitting at 11:01 AM, transit passengers now re-boarding. We board at 11:05, getting LAST halves of ANY nearby overhead racks. Even with SECOND Buspar I'm TREMBLING as I write, POSSIBLY from strain of putting up bags. Move at 11:17 after neighbor HASSLES SEARCHING for SOMETHING. NOW up to date at 11:23, about to take off, I moved into CENTER of center section, row 20, Joe in row 28. LOTS of babies crying and almost ALL seats filled. Now just the FLIGHT! Can I SLEEP? Thinking and hungry---having eaten and drunk NOTHING yet today and it's, by some measure, only 35 minutes from being HALF OVER. Taped messages say that flight came from Damascus and Islamabad! [From back of McEwan:] 9/27 PIA flight 717. Taxiing at 11:28 AM, only 6:30 AM in NYC, due in at 1:45, but probably late, 4:45, having TRIED to sleep (pills after lunch, which wasn't bad: chicken curry with rice, mixed salad with French dressing, cheese and crackers, dessert). 4:50 announcement, off coast of Canada, landing at 2:30 NYC time: two hours forty minutes from now after five hours of flight for total of seven hours forty minutes, not bad. ALMOST 2/3 there: 2/3 of 7:40 = 4:10 minutes = 920/3 = 307 minutes = five hours seven minutes, coming in five minutes. I wander plane and it appears EVERY seat is taken: children spread over two seats but their seatmate stretches out on floor. Toward rear there's a SHELF that's under the windows, convenient for small children's naps. CONSTANT child-noise, smoking everywhere and the intense Middle Eastern eyes of the rough-lean men. "What About Bob" followed a Pakistani film, and THAT was followed by James Belushi in "Curly Sue" which Joe watches to pass the time. I'm NOT tired and I seem to have no ill effects from two Rohypnol and two Buspar in two hours, FIRST counting from 99 to 0 at least seven times with NO sleep, which makes sense since I DID sleep last night and WHY should I sleep from 11:30 AM - 6 PM Europe time, OR 6:30 AM - 1 PM NYC time? Just hope I can stay awake til dark tonight to start acclimation which should be finished Friday for the Adirondacks, which Joe says he doesn't even want to think about yet. I go to 16-passenger first class, two across in lower nose, and up spiral staircase to 16-passenger business class, the only one that seems to have spare seats, only 4 or 5. OTHERWISE the plane is JAMMED by people crowding aisles and mostly ignoring movies. Wish I could see the Canadian coast, but views outside showed gray clouds both above and below plane. At least it's been smooth, only two or three times were there the mildest possible bumps. Three kids behind kicking my seat, plucking at pillows, and turning lights on and shouting, and woman to left plays footsie before getting detailed advice on her entry card. Man's wife will NOT change her window seat with me. at 5 PM, 5 1/4 hours out of 7:40 landing, or two hours 25 minutes left, just 145 minutes, LOVELY. Not the WORST trip, but not the best. Pity I can't talk with some resident Arabian. At 5:42 the watches were set to NYC time of 12:42, so it IS five hours' difference. 12:45 - 2:40, just two hours! Sit for ten wonderful minutes looking at clouds over Canada, but at 1:25 they announce "an area of turbulence" and request everyone to fasten their seatbelts so guy takes his window seat and I return to mine. 75 minutes left! I'm to page 59 here. Now it's Tom and Jerry cartoons. Collect earphones BEFORE the movie is over! Do we start DOWN at 1:34?? Down in earnest at 2 PM, only clouds and haze visible out either side. Absolutely no IDEA how low or how far we are as I finish to page 93. Landing announced at 2:15 PM, 20C outside. Land at 2:18, QUICK braking! EVERYONE gets up during taxiing, DESPITE constant admonitions. MADNESS! 2:25 still moving. [End of McEwan notes.] Then out, get bags, I get a cab that Joe shares to the subway station, and I get upstairs to unpack and collapse at the end of THAT trip!
EUROPE TRIP WITH JOE (1992) - 11 SUMMARY 11/30/92

SUN,SEP 13: Depart on Pakistani Airlines at 10:25 PM from JFK, finding that this Moslem airlines serves no booze with which to take my sleeping pills!
MON,SEP 14: Land Frankfurt 11:05. Get four-door car-rental and get lost three or four times on inadequate maps; to Alzay for castle and quaint streets; to Worms for lunch at Cafe Lott, then Cathedral and crypt; to Speyer for HUGE crypt and ENORMOUS church, stay in Trutzpfaff Hotel for great dinner there.
TUE,SEP 15: Speyer: Cathedral and river and gardens and Museum; to Heilbronn, then at noon to Schwabish Hall, great church on stairs and half-timbered houses on town square, modern town-museum in six houses on seven levels, and to bridges over river, wurst lunch, and Gross Comburg for chandelier and crypt and Rundgang. Lovely Dinkelsbuhl and desserts. To Heidesheim for Rahn Hotel and Act II of Peter Sellar's "Cosi Fan Tutti" on TV until 10:30 and sleep.
WED,SEP 16: Up to Schloss Hellenstein for two museums: carriages & handicraft, Romerbad in great basement, and hard-to-find Kunstmuseum not open yet. Aalen for thermal bad and Limes Museum. Lunch in State Theatre. Hohenstauffen to climb to castle ruins. Thru Goppingen to Bad Urach, pleasant town, wander streets, hotels full, find Ratstube for good dinner, more walking, bed 10:45.
THU,SEP 17: Drive up to Castle Lichtenstein for tour, and Castle Hohenzollern for tour and lunch. Rottweil for tea, Hochturm, churches, and Benedictine Monastery for sculpture. Drive through Bad Wildbad to Baden Baden and Ruth's concert, dinner in the Casino, and small hotel for a morning-waterless room.
FRI,SEP 18: Lunch at Auberge de L'Ill! Colmar for Issenheim altarpiece, then drive to crowded Frieburg and get to Konstanz at 7:20 and chat: Ruth feeds me.
SAT,SEP 19: Stroll Konstanz: church, shopping, money-change. Drive into Switzerland for St. Gallen and Cloister and church, lunch in top-floor Movenpick restaurant, back for Stiftbibliotek and St. Lawrence church. Buy chestnuts, get lost, back to Konstanz and Gottlieben for Restaurant Waaghaus.
SUN,SEP 20: Mainau Island for dahlia wall and flower arrangements, lunch in garden dining area, then to Birnau for Baroque church, to Schloss Kirchberg for wine-tasting, then Meersburg-Konstanz Ferry. To Arenenburg for Heldenhof Restaurant for dinner with great flaming Pear William dessert. OUT at 11:35!
MON,SEP 21: Drive via Singen and Donaushingen to Offenburg, cross Rhine at Achern, dine in restaurant overhanging highway, drive through Sezanne and not take Le Manoir in Fontenay-Thesigny, into Paris for Hotel Royal Cardinal and dine in Les Fontaines, and uncomfortable thinking someone's entering our room!
TUE,SEP 22: Picasso and Louvre closed Tuesday! D'Orsay Museum fabulous; Legion of Honor Museum mediocre; lunch in corner Bistro; I tour Musee Carnavalet while Joe walks Place de Vosges & L'Ambroisie; dine in Bofinger & see ARTE TV.
WED,SEP 23: Wrong direction to Picasso Museum, so we see Pei Louvre entrance, and Joe's Iron Museum is closed after Picasso. Totally lost leaving Paris, end up with good lunch in Villars-Carterets; to Laon for Cathedral and restored old hospital-hall, then onto highways to Aachen and Hotel Bristol and dine in the Golden Apple while we're both exhausted and walk colorful center to hotel.
THU,SEP 24: Domshatz when it opens at 10, Cathedral for choir and chest and ambo and throne, and through house-museum. Rathskeller for VERY slow lunch and out at 2:10 toward Cologne. Follow Henrike to Waldhotel Mongold, where I wander through enchanted mushroom-filled forest before EXQUISITE GREAT DINNER!
FRI,SEP 25: "Family" breakfast at Offermann's plant, driven to Bensburg station for train to Heimarkt and Wallraf Museum for "Breughel to Titian" exhibit and many other rooms; then to Roman mosaics, train and walk and taxi back to hotel to dress for Sekt and dinner in Town Hall and Baroque concert across the street and women drive us back to hotel.
SAT,SEP 26: Henrike drives us to Dusseldorf where Joe and I see a modern museum, construction sites along river, Landesmuseum, back to Movenpick lunch and liquids; we walk town and park before leaving for crowded Limburg and go toward Frankfurt until we find a hotel and wurst at Bad Comburg on highway.
SUN,SEP 27: Lost toward airport, turn in car, wait for non-reconfirmed flight, off at 11:30 & arrive at 2:18 NYC time; taxi home, Joe takes subway from here.


M 92-01-01* Carmen Jones
M 92-01-02* From the Dead of Night (4 hrs)
R 92-01-02 Cellar in the Sky with Joe
S 92-01-02 J/O with Tony on phone 11-12
B 92-01-03 Bear: Queen of Angels
M 92-01-03* Passport to Pimlico
M 92-01-03* Sherlock Holmes (1932)
E 92-01-04 India lecture #1 at Met Mus
R 92-01-04 La Traviata pizza
I 92-01-05 Worked 473 hours in 1991 for $49,698 for $105.07/hour!
M 92-01-05* Dead Poets Society
M 92-01-05* Shoot the Piano Player
R 92-01-05 Cafe Pertutti
B 92-01-06 Burton: 1001 Nights, Volume 15
M 92-01-07* What Price Hollywood?
I 92-01-08 Dr. Meyer takes cast off my left foot and leg
I 92-01-08 Update and print movie list
E 92-01-09 Sage Men's group
I 92-01-09 Update Lifelist
P 92-01-10 Two Shakespearean Actors
R 92-01-10 Caravan
B 92-01-11 Nabokov: Letters
E 92-01-11 India lecture #2 at Met Mus
M 92-01-12* Ju Dou
M 92-01-12* Prospero's Books
M 92-01-12* Thelma and Louise
B 92-01-13 Hammond: Past Worlds
M 92-01-13* After Darkness (last 75 minutes)
M 92-01-13* Tremors
M 92-01-14 American Madness (Capra)
R 92-01-14 Dallas BBQ
R 92-01-14 Moderm Art Museum lunch
D 92-01-15 Wintergarden for Molissa Fenley, Doug Varone, and Peter Pucci
E 92-01-15 Dennis Potter at Museum of Broadcasting
P 92-01-15 Les Miserables
R 92-01-15 Sam's
E 92-01-16 Sage Men's group
I 92-01-16 Dentist Lopez for 41 drills in almost 2 hours
R 92-01-16 Chelsea Gallery
M 92-01-17* Man Hunt (1984)
E 92-01-18 India lecture #3 at Met Mus
O 92-01-18 Flying Dutchman
R 92-01-18 Nectar of 82nd Street
M 92-01-19* Mad About Music
M 92-01-19* Man Between, The
I 92-01-20 Computer-replacement study ALL DAY
I 92-01-21 Computer-replacement study ALL DAY
I 92-01-22 Computer-replacement study ALL DAY
I 92-01-23 Computer-replacement ultimate purchase: PRO-486/33 for $3383
R 92-01-23 Chez Brigitte
B 92-01-24 Burton: 1001 Nights, Volume 16
R 92-01-24 Chanterelle with Sherryl
E 92-01-25 India lecture #4 at Met Mus
B 92-01-26 Burton: 1001 Nights, Volume 17 (22 months for whole thing)
M 92-01-26* Bigamist, The
M 92-01-26* Day for Night
M 92-01-27 Rolling Stones at the Max ($15 IMAX)
R 92-01-27 Ruppert's
E 92-01-28 Prince (porno) theater
M 92-01-28 Inner Circle(p)
M 92-01-28 Latin Leather(p)
R 92-01-28 Flying Fish
M 92-01-29 Lost Son, The
R 92-01-29 New Haven Pizza Company
E 92-01-30 Sage Men's group
R 92-01-30 Prix Fixe
B 92-01-31 Brin: Earth
R 92-01-31 Bright Food Shop
P 92-02-01 Taipei Theater for "Monkey King"
R 92-02-01 Island Spice
M 92-02-02* Cousin, Cousine
M 92-02-02* Icicle Thief, The
M 92-02-02* Manhattan Melodrama
I 92-02-03 Dentist Lopez for 1:15
E 92-02-04 Sage Creative Writing workshop - not join
M 92-02-04* Legacy (6 hrs)
R 92-02-04 Ed Debevic's
B 92-02-05 Poynter: Self-Publishing Manual
E 92-02-05 Paris Health Club with Michael and Dorothy
R 92-02-05 Uptown Local lunch with Michael and Dorothy after Paris Health
I 92-02-06 Antarctic slides shown to Natural History Group
B 92-02-07 Villoldo: Four Winds
P 92-02-07 Taipei Theater for "White Snake"
R 92-02-07 Gage and Tollner lunch with Dick Hsieh
B 92-02-08 Sheckley: Alien Starswarm
E 92-02-08 IBM Gallery with Sundance
E 92-02-08 Whitney Museum "Eaves" exhibit
R 92-02-08 Cafe Iguana
R 92-02-08 Croissant and Gourmet
E 92-02-09 Games group #12 here
M 92-02-09* Kindergarten Cop
M 92-02-09* Kingfisher, The
M 92-02-09s Tarzan and the Valley of Gold
R 92-02-09 Park Plaza with Games group
M 92-02-10* Prime Suspect (4 hrs)
P 92-02-11 Search and Destroy (TDF)
R 92-02-11 Leydon's with Dennis
I 92-02-12 Periodontist (2 root canals needed!)
E 92-02-13 Sage Men's group
I 92-02-13 Computer-replacement delivery!
R 92-02-14 Pasta Dore
R 92-02-15 Tasty Thai Cafe
P 92-02-16 Baltimore Waltz at Circle Rep
R 92-02-16 Little Mushroom Cafe
M 92-02-18* Olympic Ice-Dancing
R 92-02-18 Ruppert's
P 92-02-19 Pageant with Carolyn at Blue Angel
R 92-02-19 Periyali
B 92-02-20 Pilcher: Shell Seekers
E 92-02-20 Sage Men's group
R 92-02-20 Chelsea Gallery
R 92-02-21 Il Duomo (and big, black floater)
R 92-02-22 Elephant and Castle for hot fudge after Homogeniuses
B 92-02-23 Martin: A Recent Martyr (from Susan)
P 92-02-23 Tight Little Island with Sage
R 92-02-23 Cowgirls' Hall of Fame with Sage
M 92-02-24* Albertville Winter Olympics 1992
M 92-02-24* Crash Landing: The Rescue of Flight 232
M 92-02-24* Gate, The
I 92-02-25 Dentist Lopez for root canal for one hour
R 92-02-25 Chef Cuisinieres with Alice
M 92-02-26s Murder by Reason of Insanity
E 92-02-27 Sundance Social
M 92-02-27* Feud, The
R 92-02-27 Chelsea Gardens
D 92-02-29 Taipei Theater for Acrobats
M 92-02-29 Visual Effects with Spartacus at Reade Cinema
P 92-02-29 Four Baboons Adoring the Sun
R 92-02-29 Empire Grill
B 92-03-01 Batchellor: Birth of the People's Republic ofAntarctica(Susan)
M 92-03-01* Adam Bede
I 92-03-02 HIP Ophthalmologist
R 92-03-02 Vong and Kwong (Division Street) with Alice and Joe
B 92-03-03 Atwood: Cat's Eye (Susan's)
M 92-03-03s Woman Scorned, A: The Betty Broderick Story
E 92-03-04 Vicki Moss reads in Village
R 92-03-04 La Focaccia with Joe
E 92-03-05 Sage Men's group
R 92-03-05 Chelsea Gallery
M 92-03-06* Deathwatch (Keitel)
M 92-03-06* Young Indiana Jones and the Curse of the Jackal
B 92-03-07 Dahl: Ah, Sweet Mystery of Life
B 92-03-08 Stone: A Flag for Sunrise (poor)
M 92-03-08* Raging Bull
R 92-03-08 Tartine
E 92-03-09 Scrabble at Gay Center
B 92-03-10 Pilcher: September
M 92-03-10* Sword of the Ninja
R 92-03-10 Cellar in the Sky with Gordon and Rolf
I 92-03-11 Bob Karwowski dead!
I 92-03-11 Cold!
I 92-03-12 Detective Santiago at 9th Precinct
I 92-03-12 Sage "Chronicles" tryout
R 92-03-12 Kiev for lunch
I 92-03-13 Dentist Lopez
O 92-03-14 Don Carlo
I 92-03-15 Galapagos video from 14 to 4 to 2 hours
E 92-03-16 Gay Writers at Center
I 92-03-17 Buy Panasonic printer
O 92-03-17 Boris Godunov (Bolshoi at State Theatre)
R 92-03-17 Sfuzzi
B 92-03-18 Ackerley: Hindoo Holiday
E 92-03-18 Caruso's death (lecture at New York Academy of Medicine/Regina)
R 92-03-18 New York Academy of Medicine buffet (Caruso's death/Regina)
R 92-03-19 Palio with Delores and Michael
I 92-03-20 Galapagos video for Delores/Michael/John/Pope/Joe
R 92-03-20 United Nations brunch with Delores and Michael
M 92-03-21* Doing Time on Maple Drive
R 92-03-21 Le Perigord with Paul and Delores and Michael
O 92-03-22 Coq D'Or (Bolshoi at State Theatre)
R 92-03-22 Box Tree brunch with Delores and Michael
E 92-03-23 Scrabble at Gay Center
R 92-03-23 New Haven Pizza Company
R 92-03-24 Dallas BBQ with BC and MV
O 92-03-25 Queen of Spades (Bolshoi at State Theatre)
R 92-03-25 Columbus with Joe
O 92-03-26 Elektra
R 92-03-26 Sfuzzi
I 92-03-27 Sage "Chronicles" call-back
R 92-03-27 Lespinasse with Paul
I 92-03-28 Birthday party here for me
O 92-03-28 Parsifal
M 92-03-29* Doll's House (Juliet Stevenson)
M 92-03-30* Academy Awards of 1992
E 92-03-31 Coral Cities and LizPhillips neon/interactive art at WorldFinan
E 92-03-31 Jersey City convocation with Shelley and Susan Sontag
R 92-03-31 Greenhouse in Vista Hotel
R 92-03-31 Sign of the Dove with Alice
I 92-04-01 Sage "Chronicles" outline written
E 92-04-02 Lalique exhibit at Henri Bendel's/Steuben exhibit/Cadmus paints
E 92-04-02 Sage Men's group (boring)
R 92-04-02 Elmer's
B 92-04-03 Card: Seventh Son
I 92-04-03 Visa card 4316 lost, reported 11:50PM
M 92-04-03* Cloning of Joanna May, The
R 92-04-03 Il Duomo
E 92-04-04 Sundance hike to Garret Mnt,LambertCastle,GreatFalls of Passaic
M 92-04-05* Hardhat and Legs
M 92-04-05* Wicked Stepmother
P 92-04-07 Death and the Maiden (Glen Close/Gene Hackman/Richard Dreyfuss)
R 92-04-07 Island Spice
E 92-04-08 Orchid show opening at WorldFinancial Center with Joe's tickets
R 92-04-08 Capsuoto Freres
E 92-04-09 Sage Men's group
I 92-04-09 Dentist Lopez for an hour
E 92-04-11 MAN party
M 92-04-11* S.O.S. Titanic
O 92-04-11 Fanciulla del West
M 92-04-12* Fraternity Row
M 92-04-12c King Kong
E 92-04-13 Gay Circles Introduction
M 92-04-13* Rich and Famous 1992 best
B 92-04-14 Card: Red Prophet
R 92-04-14 Ruppert's
B 92-04-15 Greeley: Angel Fire
I 92-04-15 Sage "Chronicles" Past rehearsal
E 92-04-16 Sage Men's group
R 92-04-16 Chelsea Gallery
P 92-04-17 Falsettos
M 92-04-18* One-Trick Pony
E 92-04-20 Gay Circles #1
M 92-04-21* Rambling Rose
M 92-04-22* AIDS Concert for Life
M 92-04-22* Eddie and the Cruisers II
M 92-04-22* Search for Amelia Earhart
P 92-04-22 Marvin's Room
R 92-04-22 La Boheme
E 92-04-23 French (the painter)(Jared?) opening
M 92-04-23* Guilty Conscience (didn't remember ANY of it!)
M 92-04-23* Rosencrantz and Guildenstern Are Dead (Dreyfuss)
P 92-04-23 Hearts (TDF)
M 92-04-24* Elvis: Great Performances
M 92-04-25* My Own Private Idaho
E 92-04-26 Sundance Party (at ?)
E 92-04-27 Gay Circles #2
E 92-04-28 Whitman lecture at Brooklyn Historical Society
I 92-04-28 Dentist Lopez for one hour
M 92-04-28* Gerardo (Sandy's)
P 92-04-30 Lips Together, Teeth Apart
R 92-04-30 Raymond's with Sage
R 92-04-30 Windows on the World buffet lunch with Mom
B 92-05-01 Ackerman: A Natural History of the Senses
I 92-05-01 Antarctic slides to Mom
M 92-05-01* One Thousand Pieces of Gold
R 92-05-01 Les Celebrites with Mom for her birthday
P 92-05-02 Jelly's Last Jam
R 92-05-02 Fascati's pizza for Mom's dinner
R 92-05-02 Spike brunch with Sage
M 92-05-03* Perfect Hero, A (part 1)
R 92-05-03 La Traviata with Mom and Joe
B 92-05-04 Bradbury: Graveyard for Lunatics, A
E 92-05-04 Gay Circles #3
I 92-05-04 Dentist Lopez for one hour
M 92-05-04* Twenty-Ninth [29th] Street
M 92-05-05* Mortal Thoughts
M 92-05-05* Point Break
M 92-05-05* Reflecting Skin, The
R 92-05-05 Ruppert's
M 92-05-06* Bright Angel
M 92-05-06* Hot Shots
E 92-05-07 Sage Men's group (last one?)
M 92-05-07* Barton Fink
M 92-05-07* Dangerous Man, A: Lawrence of Arabia
M 92-05-08 Inspector Morse: Driven to Distraction
M 92-05-08* Jumpin' Jack Flash
E 92-05-09 In Your Face panel at Gay Center (writing workshop)
E 92-05-09 MAN party (Jock)
R 92-05-09 Chelsea Central
B 92-05-10 Nussbaum: Good Intentions
M 92-05-10* Akira
M 92-05-10* Boyz n the Hood
E 92-05-11 Gay Circles #4
B 92-05-12 Barker: Imajica
E 92-05-13 Stonewall Business Association orientation
I 92-05-13 Russia-China slides "doctored" by John Strong
M 92-05-15* Dead Again
M 92-05-15* Insepctor Morse: Sins of Fathers
M 92-05-15s Red Scorpion
M 92-05-15* Videodrome
R 92-05-15 Amazon Restaurant (1-3PM) with Shelley
B 92-05-16 Vonnegut: Hocus Pocus
E 92-05-16 MAN party (Manstruck)(very much wine)
M 92-05-16 Bitter Tea of General Yen
M 92-05-16 Miracle Woman
M 92-05-16* One Hundred and One (101) Dalmatians
M 92-05-16* Rapture, The
M 92-05-16* Rocketeer
M 92-05-16* Tong Tana (Swiss in Sarawak)
R 92-05-16 Le Pescadou
M 92-05-17* Look Who's Talking
M 92-05-17* Masters of the Universe
R 92-05-17 Moroccan Star with Sherryl and David and Stephanie
E 92-05-18 Gay Circles #5
B 92-05-19 Clarke: Ghost from the Grand Banks
R 92-05-19 Le Comptoir for Sherryl's birthday
E 92-05-20 ASI NYC meeting on NY Times indexing
P 92-05-20 Most Happy Fella
R 92-05-20 Cafe Luxembourg
M 92-05-21* Big Trouble in Little China
M 92-05-22* Alice (cheap Czech)
M 92-05-22* Fisher King, The
M 92-05-22* Intruders (last 1/4)
M 92-05-22* Mrs. Cage
M 92-05-22* To Catch a Killer
E 92-05-23 Donald Vining talks to Prime Timers at Gay Center
P 92-05-23 Price, The (Roundabout, with Dennis)
R 92-05-23 Michael's Place with Dennis
E 92-05-24 Fireworks on Promenade
M 92-05-24* Perfect Hero, A (4 hrs)
M 92-05-24* Plymouth
M 92-05-24* Urinal
M 92-05-25* Black Robe
R 92-05-25 Koronet Pizza on 111th and Broadway
E 92-05-26 NYC Ballet talk at NY State Theatre
M 92-05-26 Player, The
R 92-05-26 Danny's dinner with Dennis
B 92-05-27 Anthony: Split Infinity
I 92-05-27 Get $10,000 job! (ASME Water Technology Handbook)
P 92-05-27 Small Family Business, A
R 92-05-27 Culinary Institute on Broadway with Spartacus and Kit and Bob
M 92-05-28* Femme Fatale
M 92-05-28* Women and Men 2 (I don't know!)
P 92-05-28 Ruthless!
R 92-05-28 Apple (formerly Garvin's/Gaya)
E 92-05-29 IBM Gallery Russian Stagecraft and Korean fabrics
E 92-05-29 Julian Schnabel at Pace; prints; primitive art
P 92-05-29 Taipei Theater for "Flying Horse"
R 92-05-29 Chiam
R 92-05-29 Le Bar Bat
R 92-05-29 Stubs with Dennis
M 92-05-31 Tony Awards of 1992
M 92-05-31s Zapped Again
B 92-06-01 Barker: In the Flesh
E 92-06-01 Gay Circles #6
E 92-06-02 Hudson River cruise with Sherryl 6-9:30 - GREAT
R 92-06-05 Pasta Dore with MV and MB
E 92-06-06 MAN at 8PM
M 92-06-07* After the Warming (notes taken)
M 92-06-07* Broadway Melody of 1936
M 92-06-07s Snake Eater (Lorenzo Lamas)
E 92-06-08 Gay Circles #7
M 92-06-08* Broadway Bad
M 92-06-08s Hardbodies
M 92-06-08s Private Resort
R 92-06-08 Palenque lunch, treated by Maro Riofrancos
I 92-06-09 Fethi paints bathroom
R 92-06-09 Ruppert's
P 92-06-10 V by V (TDF) with Carolyn
R 92-06-10 Boxer's
E 92-06-11 Gay Circles #8
M 92-06-11* Millenium (last of 10 hrs)
P 92-06-13 Hauptmann (TDF)
R 92-06-13 Alison on Dominick with Joe
E 92-06-14 Bronx Urban Park Ranger Horseshoe-Crab tour at Orchard Beach
M 92-06-14* It Came From Hollywood
R 92-06-14 Western Steakhouse in Bronx
E 92-06-15 Gay Circles jamboree
M 92-06-15* Truly, Madly, Deeply (Juliet Stevenson)
E 92-06-16 Gaiety Burlesque 10-11:30 afterwards
E 92-06-16 Stonewall Business Association with Shelley
R 92-06-16 Cafe Napoleon
E 92-06-17 Gay Circles party in Jersey
E 92-06-18 Met Mus for Mantegna
M 92-06-18 Tongues Untied
P 92-06-18 Richard III (McKellan) at BAM
R 92-06-18 Gage and Tollner's with Joe
R 92-06-18 Planet Hollywood
B 92-06-19 Rush: Mating
E 92-06-19 Salmagundi Club with Vicki for her friend's animal slides
R 92-06-19 Rose
M 92-06-21s Hercules in New York (1969 Schwarzenegger)
M 92-06-21* Lonesome Dove (8 hrs)
M 92-06-21* Mala Noche (AWFUL)
M 92-06-22* Age-Old Friends
M 92-06-23* Broken Noses (Pope's tape)
I 92-06-24 Ron Kron dies
M 92-06-24* Act of Love, An
P 92-06-24 Rover, The (with Dennis)
R 92-06-24 Union Square Cafe with Carolyn
M 92-06-25* Great Houdini, The
M 92-06-25* Red Heat
M 92-06-26* Different from the Others (1919 German gay film)
M 92-06-26* Empty Bed, An
T 92-06-26 Fly JFK to Paris
R 92-06-27 Arab-Union Building Restaurant (Paris, with Jean-Jacques)
R 92-06-27 Montardier Cafe with Jean-Jacques outside Giverney
T 92-06-27 Fly Paris to Brazzaville
T 92-06-27 Giverney with Jean-Jacques
T 92-06-28 Fly Brazzaville to Johannesburg
R 92-06-29 Carlton Center Coffee Shop (Johannesburg)
T 92-06-29 Johannesburg: Library/Africana Museum/Gem collection
R 92-06-30 Wimpy's (Johannesburg)
T 92-06-30 Johannesburg: Soweto tour/City PM tour
R 92-07-01 Fort Mistake (Natal) lunch
R 92-07-01 Karos Mont Aux Sources Hotel restaurant
T 92-07-01 Bus Johannesburg to Karos Mont Aux Sources Hotel
R 92-07-02 Karos Mont Aux Sources Hotel restaurant
T 92-07-02 Royal Natal Park walking tour
R 92-07-03 Fort Mistake (Natal) lunch
T 92-07-03 Bus Ladysmith Johannesburg/dine at Laird's
R 92-07-04 Natalie makes fabulous dinner for me and Laird in Johannesburg
R 92-07-04 Ta'n Malie with Laird north of Johannesburg
T 92-07-04 Johannesburg: Lion Park/DeWildt Cheetah Park with Laird
T 92-07-05 Fly Johannesburg to Honeyguide with Delores(phoned me) and Mike
T 92-07-06 Kruger National Park: Honeyguide camp
T 92-07-07 Fly Honeyguide to Londolozi
T 92-07-08 Kruger National Park: Londolozi camp
T 92-07-09 Londolozi camp and Changan village
R 92-07-10 Johannesburg: The Train, GREAT, with Laird and Wolf
R 92-07-10 Johannesburg: Sandton Sun Hotel lunch
T 92-07-10 Fly Londolozi to Johannesburg (with nose-wheel trouble)
T 92-07-11 Fly Maun to Camp Okavango. Push-boat ride
T 92-07-11 Fly Johannesburg to Maun in Botswana
T 92-07-12 Camp Okavango motorboat tour; catch tigerfish in PM boat
T 92-07-13 Boat from Camp Okavango to Camp Moremi on Okavango Delta
T 92-07-14 Okavango Delta: Camp Moremi
T 92-07-15 Okavango Delta: Camp Moremi: hyena eats soap!
T 92-07-16 Fly Camp Moremi to Kasane for Chobe Game Lodge
T 92-07-17 Chobe Game Lodge: Lions kill two buffalo
D 92-07-18 Victoria Falls: dancers at Victoria Falls Hotel
R 92-07-18 Victoria Falls: Ilala Lodge lunch and dinner
T 92-07-18 Chobe Game Lodge and van to Victoria Falls
T 92-07-18 Victoria Falls: Crocodile farm and native dancers at hotel
T 92-07-19 Fly from Victoria Falls to Kariba; fly to Bumi Hills
T 92-07-19 Victoria Falls and Angels' Flight-tour
T 92-07-19 Zambia for other side of Victoria Falls
T 92-07-20 Bumi Hills: two hours in hide
T 92-07-21 Fly Bumi Hills to Chikwenya; 3 hours in hide; Flame Lily wine
T 92-07-22 Chikwenya camp and boat tour on Zambezi River
T 92-07-23 Fly Chikwenya to Fothergill Island and boat to Spurwing Island
T 92-07-24 Spurwing Island: boat cruise, Sunyati gorge, sunset cruise
M 92-07-25* Olympic opening in Barcelona
T 92-07-25 Fly Spuring to Kariba; fly to Harare; fly to Johannesburg
R 92-07-26 Mokuti Lodge: Boma braai
T 92-07-26 Fly Johannesburg to Windhoek; fly to Mokuti Lodge in Namibia
R 92-07-27 Mokuti Lodge: Huntsman's platter dinner
T 92-07-27 Mokuti Lodge:Namutani/TwoPalms/Aroa/Chudob/Klein Namutani holes
T 92-07-28 Drive MokutiLodge to Chudob and Kalkhuewel & Okakeujo waterhole
B 92-07-29 Pilcher: Flowers in the Rain
T 92-07-29 Okakeujo rhinos and tour Etosha Pan
T 92-07-30 Fly Okakeujo to Windhoek; fly to Namib Desert, Namibia
T 92-07-30 Namibia: Sesriem Canyon
T 92-07-31 Namibia: Dawn dune-climb; office books; Elim Dune
T 92-08-01 Fly Namib Desert to Windhoek; fly to Johannesburg
T 92-08-01 Namibia: Dunes at dawn; Dune 47 for Delores-Kinnic battle
R 92-08-02 Johannesburg: Mike's Kitchen for lunch
R 92-08-02 Kronstadt: Golden Egg for dinner
T 92-08-02 Bus Johannesburg to Capetown
R 92-08-03 Capetown: Inn on the Square's Restaurant for dinner
R 92-08-03 Capetown: Inn on the Square's Cobbler Dining Room for lunch
T 92-08-03 Capetown: Castle tour; Waterfront ramble; town walk
T 92-08-03 Hex River Mountains passed by bus
R 92-08-04 Capetown: Inn on the Square's kingklip dinner
R 92-08-04 Simontown: Black Marlin Restaurant on Cape of Good Hope tour
T 92-08-04 Cape of Good Hope tour; see jackass penguins; Table Mountain
T 92-08-05 Blue Train from Capetown to Johannesburg; via Matjiesfontain
R 92-08-06 Johannesburg: Sandton Sun's pantry buffet withLaird/Wolf/friend
T 92-08-06 Johannesburg: Zoo
R 92-08-07 Johannesburg: Longhorn's with Laird and Peter
T 92-08-07 Johannesburg: Gold Reef City
R 92-08-08 Johannesburg: Laird fixes fabulous boerevos meal with wine
R 92-08-08 Pretoria: Voortrekker Monument potjiekos
T 92-08-08 Pretoria: Voortrekker Monument and zoo with Laird
M 92-08-09* Olympic closing ceremony from Barcelona, seen in Laird's house
R 92-08-09 Johannesburg: Courier Restaurant lunch after Lipizzaner show
T 92-08-09 Johannesburg: Lipizzaner show and snake farm
I 92-08-10 Laird's car breaks down Bophuthatswana to Johannesburg
R 92-08-10 Bophuthatswana: Mine Club for Laird's friends and drinks
R 92-08-10 Bophuthatswana: Tlhabane Inn dinner
T 92-08-10 Bophuthatswana with Laird/Precious Metals Refinery
T 92-08-11 Fly Johannesburg to Libreville
T 92-08-11 Johannesburg: Art Gallery and final packing from trip
R 92-08-12 Alison on Dominick
T 92-08-12 Fly Libreville to Paris; to New York City
I 92-08-13 HIP Ingrown toenail removed
M 92-08-13* Music in the Air
R 92-08-13 La Traviata dinner ordered in
R 92-08-13 Montague Street Burritos
S 92-08-14 Tony over 8-9:45
M 92-08-17* NotoriousGentleman
M 92-08-18* Daughters of the Dust
R 92-08-19 Ruppert's
B 92-08-22 White and Gribben: Stephen Hawkings (from BPL)
M 92-08-26* Lost Language of Cranes
R 92-08-26 Bouley with Michael Blackburn on Shelley's $29.92 dinner
R 92-08-27 Rugantino lunch with Shelley
P 92-08-28 Midsummer Night's Dream (with Dennis)
R 92-08-28 Krour Thai
E 92-08-29 MAN party at 8PM
E 92-08-30 Mushroom tour in Prospect Park with rangers
M 92-08-30* Attack Force Z
M 92-08-30s David and Goliath
M 92-08-30* Emmy Awards of 1992
I 92-08-31 Bob Karwowski's apartment for 3 hours
I 92-09-01 Bob Karwowski's apartment for 2 hours
R 92-09-02 Phoenix Restaurant of Hotel Maria (Lafayette and Howard Sts.)
M 92-09-03 One False Move
P 92-09-03 Sight Unseen (with Spartacus)
R 92-09-04 Bridge Cafe in Pennsylvania with MMB
R 92-09-04 Cuttalossa Restaurant in Pennsylvania with MMB and Diane
T 92-09-04 Sergeantsville with Michael Blackburn
R 92-09-05 Miel's (New Jersey) with MMB
R 92-09-05 Sergeantsville Inn with MMB
I 92-09-06 Michael Blackburn skids and has auto accident
R 92-09-06 Black Bass Hotel drinks in Pennsylvania with MMB
R 92-09-06 Bridge Cafe in Pennsylvania with MMB
R 92-09-06 Cafe Marcella in Pennsylvania with MMB and Yveline and Diane
M 92-09-07* Dogs of War
M 92-09-07* Rodrigo D: No Future
T 92-09-07 Drive Pennsylvania to New York with MMB
M 92-09-08* Angry Silence, The
M 92-09-08* Kric Krac (Haiti)
M 92-09-08* Luck of Ginger Coffey
B 92-09-12 Helprin: A Soldier of the Great War
E 92-09-12 Sundance Chelsea Tour
T 92-09-13 Fly Pakistani Airlines from JFK to Frankfort with Joe
R 92-09-14 Speyer: Trutzpfaff Hotel dinner
R 92-09-14 Worms: Cafe Lott lunch
T 92-09-14 Germany: Alzay Castle/Worms Cathedral & Crypt/Speyer Cathedral
R 92-09-15 Heidesheim: Rahn Hotel dinner
R 92-09-15 Schwabish Hall: wurst lunch in park
T 92-09-15 Germany: SpeyerCathedral/SchwabishHall/GrossComburg/Dinkelsbuhl
R 92-09-16 Aalen: State Theatre lunch
R 92-09-16 Bad Urach: Ratstube Hotel dinner
T 92-09-16 Germany: Schloss Hellenstein/Romerbad/Aalen/Hohenstauffen hill
R 92-09-17 Baden Baden Casino dinner paid by Ruth
R 92-09-17 Castle Hohenzollern: lunch on ramparts
T 92-09-17 Germany: Castles Lichtenstein & Hohenzollern/Rottweil walk
R 92-09-18 Illhaursen: Auberge de L'Ill lunch***
R 92-09-18 Konstanz: wurst dinner at Ruth's
T 92-09-18 France: Illhaursen/ColmarIssenheim alterpiece & museum/Frieburg
R 92-09-19 Gottlieben, Switzerland: Waaghaus dinner
R 92-09-19 St. Gallen: Movenpick top-floor lunch
T 92-09-19 Switzerland: St. Gallen:Cloister Church; Gottlieben in evening
R 92-09-20 Arenenburg: Heldenhoff dinner
R 92-09-20 Mainau Island restaurant lunch
T 92-09-20 Germany: Mainau Island, Birnau church, Schloss Kirchburg
R 92-09-21 France: A4 highway lunch
R 92-09-21 Les Fontaines (Paris) with Joe
T 92-09-21 Germany: Drive Konstanz-Singen-Offenburg-Achern to Paris
M 92-09-22* Arte TV one-hour ad in Paris hotel
R 92-09-22 Paris: Corner bistro lunch
R 92-09-22 Paris: Bofinger's
T 92-09-22 Paris: D'Orsay Museum; Legion of Honor Museum; Carnavalet Mus.
R 92-09-23 Aachen: Golden Apple dinner
R 92-09-23 Villars-Cotterets: Commerce Restaurant lunch
T 92-09-23 Drive Paris to Aachen and the Hotel Bristol in outer ring
T 92-09-23 Paris: Louvre engrance; Picasso Museum; Laon Cathedral and Hall
R 92-09-24 Aachen: Rathskeller lunch
R 92-09-24 Cologne: Waldhotel Mangold EXCELLENT dinner
T 92-09-24 Aachen: Domshatz, Cathedral, and House-museums
T 92-09-24 Drive Aachen to Cologne and Waldhotel Mangold
R 92-09-25 Cologne: Town Hall dinner-buffet
R 92-09-25 Cologne: Offermann "family" breakfast in plant
T 92-09-25 Cologne: Wallraf Museum and Roman Mosaics
R 92-09-26 Bad Comburg: motel and restaurant wurst
R 92-09-26 Dusseldorf: Movenpick lunch paid by Henrike
T 92-09-26 Dusseldorf: ModernMuseum/Landesmuseum/Limburg church and sights
T 92-09-26 Germany: Drive Cologne to Dusseldorf; Bad Comburg highway
T 92-09-27 Fly from Frankfurt to New York City
M 92-09-28* Roger and Me
M 92-09-29* Dark Angel (O'Toole)
M 92-09-29* Ghosts of Versailles, The (Met)
M 92-09-29* Heat of the Day, The
M 92-09-29* King Ralph
O 92-09-29* Ghosts of Versailles, The (Met)
P 92-09-30 Oba Oba Returns
E 92-10-01 Mycology at Natural History Club
B 92-10-02 McEwan: In Between the Sheets
R 92-10-02 Athena (Newburgh lunch)
T 92-10-02 Garnet Hill: driven by Suzie without Joe
T 92-10-03 Garnet Hill: Nearby trails; buffet night
T 92-10-04 Garnet Hill: Old Farm Road; Elizabeth Point; Sacandaga River
I 92-10-05 New Zealand and Galapagos slides to Garnet Hill group
T 92-10-05 Garnet Hill: Peaked Mountain climb
I 92-10-06 South Africa slides to Garnet Hill group
T 92-10-06 Garnet Hill: Sugar House walk; Mack's birthday party
R 92-10-07 Fuji Restaurant (Suffern) lunch
T 92-10-07 Garnet Hill: return drive by Suzie
M 92-10-08s Gate, The
M 92-10-08* Odd Jobs
E 92-10-09 Tangerine Dream at Beacon
R 92-10-09 Ernie's
R 92-10-10 Teresa's with Joe
M 92-10-11* Common Threads
M 92-10-11* Great Performances 20th Anniversary
M 92-10-11* Presidential debate 1992
M 92-10-12* Last Gentleman, The
M 92-10-12* Wraith, The
E 92-10-13 EFA computer-group meeting
R 92-10-13 Steak Frites
E 92-10-14 Sundance Film walk
M 92-10-14* It Should Happen to You
R 92-10-15 J's (with Barbara Lea singing afterwards)
M 92-10-16* Au Revoir Les Enfants
M 92-10-16* Realms of the Russian Bear (6 hrs)
E 92-10-17 MAN nude-in
M 92-10-17* Killing of Randy Watson
M 92-10-17* Matewan
O 92-10-17 Madame Butterfly
E 92-10-18 Sheepshead Bay boat tour with Sherryl and David
M 92-10-19* Best of Friends (Masterpiece Theater)
M 92-10-20* Into the Night
R 92-10-20 The Mark with Paul McLean
B 92-10-21 Strugatskys: Monday Begins on Saturday
R 92-10-21 Manhattan Chili Company
M 92-10-22* Cavalleria Rusticana (NYST)
M 92-10-22* Man from the Pru, The
M 92-10-22* Pagliacci (NYST)
O 92-10-22* Cavalleria Rusticana (NYST)
O 92-10-22* Pagliacci (NYST)
R 92-10-22 Jojo's with Dennis
I 92-10-24 South Africa slides to 11 Homogenius guests
M 92-10-24* S.O.S. Tidal Wave
P 92-10-25 Jacques Brel Is Alive and Well (Village Gate)
P 92-10-25 Showoff, The (Criterion Center)
R 92-10-25 Cafe Espanol with Mom
I 92-10-26 South Africa slides and tapes to Mom
M 92-10-26* Tales from the Dark Side
R 92-10-26 Stubs with Mom
P 92-10-27 Crazy for You
R 92-10-27 Beefsteak Charlie's with Mom
E 92-10-28 Stonewall Business Fair
P 92-10-28 Roads to Home, The (Horton Foote, with Hallie Foote)
E 92-10-29 Matisse show at Moderm
M 92-10-29* Donner Party (Burns)
R 92-10-29 Larre's with Joe and Sherryl and David
M 92-10-30* Addams Family, The
E 92-10-31 Halloween Parade with Joe
M 92-10-31* Angel at My Table, An
M 92-10-31* Bugsy
M 92-10-31* George White's 1935 Scandals
M 92-10-31* Night That Panicked America, The
R 92-10-31 Tartine with Joe
M 92-11-01* Heartstoppers: Horror at the Movies
M 92-11-01* Hook
M 92-11-01* Horror Hall of Fame III
M 92-11-02* Fried Green Tomatoes
M 92-11-03* Batman Returns
M 92-11-03* Europa Europa
M 92-11-03* Star Trek VI
M 92-11-03* Twins
I 92-11-04 Dr. Gewirtz lasers black spot from back; I get flu shot
M 92-11-04* Dry White Season, A
M 92-11-04* Homicide
R 92-11-04 The Mark with Joe
B 92-11-05 Garcia Marquez: The General in His Labyrinth
E 92-11-05 Brooklyn Historical Society for "Gay neighbors"
E 92-11-05 Natural History Group for "Old Gay Yellowstone"
M 92-11-05* Cape Fear (DeNiro)
M 92-11-05* Naked Lunch
M 92-11-06* Grand Canyon - great!
M 92-11-06* Wayne's World
M 92-11-06* Yellow Ticket
E 92-11-07 MAN party at 8PM
E 92-11-07 Shelley Neiderbach's brunch 12-4:45
M 92-11-07* Taxi Blues
E 92-11-08 Vicki reads at Cornelia Street restaurant
M 92-11-08s Dead Heat
M 92-11-09* Common Pursuit, The
M 92-11-09* Final Approach
M 92-11-09* My Cousin Vinny
M 92-11-09* Split Second
M 92-11-10* Lawnmower Man - good
M 92-11-11* Hand That Rocks the Cradle, The
M 92-11-11* JFK - GREAT!
E 92-11-12 ASI NYC meeting
E 92-11-12 Siskel and Ebert with Spartacus at Museum of Broadcasting
E 92-11-15 Games group #13 at Lina Marks'
E 92-11-16 Gay Small Businesses meeting
M 92-11-16* Gentleman Jim
M 92-11-17* Hard Way, The
E 92-11-20 Met Mus for Magritte/De Ribera/Loma Negra/Lille/Susa/photos
M 92-11-20* Kennedy (1988)(Sheen/Shea)(first 4 hrs of 6 hrs)
R 92-11-20 Met Museum cafeteria
E 92-11-21 Games here with David and Sherryl
O 92-11-21 Tosca
R 92-11-21 Teresa's with Sherryl and David and Vicki
M 92-11-22* Kennedys, The (1990)(first 4 hrs of 5 hrs)
M 92-11-22* Sword in the Stone
I 92-11-23 Alice Sabah dies of AIDS
M 92-11-25* Pee-Wee's Big Adventure
M 92-11-25* Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles
P 92-11-25 Someone Who'll Watch Over Me
R 92-11-25 Brooklyn Club dinner with Shelley
R 92-11-25 Ollie's
B 92-11-26 Conroy: The Prince of Tides
M 92-11-26* Tru
R 92-11-26 Slades Thanksgiving lunch with Dennis
M 92-11-27* Southerner, The
B 92-11-28 Barker: Books of Blood I
I 92-11-28 Russia-China slides at Prime-Timers
M 92-11-29* Deadly Matrimony
M 92-11-29* Prince of Tides
M 92-11-29* Thunderheart
M 92-11-30* Ferngully
M 92-12-01* Basic Instinct
M 92-12-01* Dream Baby
M 92-12-01* Hard to Kill
M 92-12-01* Return of the Living Dead
M 92-12-01* Stagecoach
M 92-12-01* Unsinkable Molly Brown
M 92-12-02* Alien 3
M 92-12-02* Cold Heaven
P 92-12-02 Dennis's play reading at Roundabout
M 92-12-03* American Dream
M 92-12-03* Cabeza de Vaca
M 92-12-03* Dangerous When Wet
M 92-12-03* Foxfire
M 92-12-03* Heart of Darkness
M 92-12-03* Patriot Games
B 92-12-05 Barker: The Inhuman Condition
M 92-12-05 Moon of Israel
M 92-12-05 Sodom und Gomorrah (silent)
R 92-12-05 Modern Museum lunch
M 92-12-06* Alice in Wonderland (Disney)
M 92-12-06* Guys and Dolls off the Record
M 92-12-06* Man Upstairs, The
M 92-12-06 Noah's Ark
M 92-12-06 Third Degree, The
R 92-12-06 Modern Museum lunch
E 92-12-07 Guggenheim for Russian exhibit
E 92-12-07 Japan Center for Barbara Lea concert
R 92-12-07 Chom Poo Thai with Sherryl
R 92-12-07 Lipstick Cafe lunch
S 92-12-07 Tava's murals and orgy 10:45 - 2:30AM
D 92-12-09 Ballet Hispanico at Joyce
I 92-12-09 MAS bulletin board hooked into
R 92-12-09 La Taza de Oro
M 92-12-12* Ladakh at Open Center
M 92-12-12* Little Princess
O 92-12-12 Lucia di Lammermoor
E 92-12-13 Meg's Christmas party
E 92-12-14 Gay Men Together
P 92-12-15 Boy-Girl-Boy (TDF) with Joe
R 92-12-15 Hudson Corner
B 92-12-16 Barker: The Damnation Game
R 92-12-16 Diane's
I 92-12-17 Computer-TRS data transferred to IBM!
P 92-12-17 Roleplay (TDF)
R 92-12-17 C.J. Blanda with Carolyn
R 92-12-19 Ruth Frenk's dinner with Joe (where?)
E 92-12-20 Games group here
M 92-12-21* Company of Strangers
M 92-12-21* Hard Nut, The
E 92-12-22 EFA Christmas party (I stay 20 minutes)
M 92-12-22* Jack the Giant Killer
M 92-12-22* Parenthood
P 92-12-23 My Favorite Year
P 92-12-24 Bubba Meises (TDF) - awful!
R 92-12-24 Chez Michallet with Joe
M 92-12-25* Condition Critical
M 92-12-25* Liverpool Oratoria (McCartney)
M 92-12-25* Miracle in Milan
M 92-12-26* Gold Diggers of 1933
M 92-12-26* Pilgrimage
M 92-12-26* Worst Woman in Paris?, The
E 92-12-27 Kwanzaa at Museum of Natural History
M 92-12-27* Broadway Bad (start)
M 92-12-27* Kitty Foyle
M 92-12-27* Mrs. Arris Goes to Paris
R 92-12-27 Museum of Natural History Kwanzaa lunch
E 92-12-28 Gay Men Together
M 92-12-28* Hello, Sister
M 92-12-29 Aladdin
R 92-12-29 Carolina in Coney Island
T 92-12-29 Walk Sheepshead Bay to Brighton Beach to Coney Island
I 92-12-30 SICK on penicillin on empty stomach?
M 92-12-30* Elisir D'Amore, L' (Battle,Pavarotti)
P 92-12-30 Dreamtime with Carolyn
B 92-12-31 Dahl: Esio Trot
B 92-12-31 Pilcher: The Carousel
M 92-12-31* Big Trail, The
M 92-12-31* Damsel in Distress